Thanks for all your help Predator-Z

Here's a few more things I SHOULD HAVE included in the original post...

My car / the plan below :

1. Stock displacement LS1
2. Stock 98 heads
3. Would like the power up top to pull HARD at the end of the 1/4 mile
4. Wanted a choppy idle before, now I could care less.
5. This is a true summer DD and will be racing at the strip every weekend.
6. Current mods - SLP Lid, 3.73 gear, A4 w/ shift kit | Before cam goes in - Longtubes, 3" ORY, LS6 intake | After cam - Tune
7. Would like to spend as little $$ as possible but still want to get the job done right the first time. It will be done in my garage.
8. A4 - NOT STALLING IT
9. Stock suspension car, will add torque arm, SFC's, and shocks.
10. Would like to change valve springs in the car 1 time, don't want the cam to wear them out.

 

Euuhhh! My advice then is no cam.

>Just lighten that baby as much as you can,
>Shave the heads to raise compression.
>No trq arm needed (just get a poly bushing and a poly trans mount),
>Suspension: just LCAs and relocation bracket.

You do not want to stall and you do not want to change springs, so you shouldn't cam

 

Then I go back to my first comment. No stall, and you want a cam that is easy on the ol' valvetrain, GT2+3. Change the springs out once with a good set and forget it.

 

Sorry, I want to change the valve springs... but only 1 time... I've heard of cams wearing out valve springs in 15,000 miles

 

Man you need to go drive a local car with a SS3600. There has to be one. They are really not bad at all. I wished I would have ordered a SS4000 myself, but never having one I was hesitant. And now with the cam I NEED it.

 

im interested in this same topic as well. im thinkin a gm hot cam or tr224? not to hijack but i am not ready to stall either. Whats a good price on a cam install? Any other cams not mentioned that should work good?

 

why are you so adamently against a torque converter? it will be cheaper than a cam only, faster, etc.

if your going to race every weekend it seems stupid not to get a stall of some sort...3600 stall would do WONDERS with a TR224 or the 224/228 pred Z was talking about.

Valve springs are a wear item... its recommended to change them 20-30k miles with a bigger cam. I plan on changing mine at the 20k mark with my .595/.598 lift cam

to address 7. to get the job done right you really do need a stall, cam and bolt ons...a cam only A4 car with no stall =

if you don't want a stall DON'T put a cam in your A4 car PERIOD.

Chad

 

i just placed an order with Spohn for sub frames, LCA's with relocation, pan bar, and Tq arm with loop. and all i really need is LCA's with relocation and poly bushings for the Tq arm and tranny????

 

Ok, you guys got me.

No cam for me.

Gonna just stick with just the bolt ons and tune. If it's not quick enough, then I'll have to stall/cam it at that time, or get another f-body with the M6.

 

Yeap, I had my setup in low 11s just with that cutting 1.52' 60 foot, never had an issue. Many others have done it. Even kissed 10.99 a couple of times.
Trick is weight transfer.

 

You can do it.. it's just not as optimal as these guys like. PM me if you have any questions I have A LOT of personal expierience with cam and no stall.

 

why are you so against no stall? it doesnt affect gas mileage, and after a week you dont even notice it, i dont understand?

 

How about stock cam and a stall. That will be a lot faster than a cam with a stock stall.

 

I still think you should cam it with the cam Predator spec'd out. Get a good set of springs and roll with it.