Cam suggestions - A4 Only (No Stall) Daily Driver
#42
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Thanks for all your help Predator-Z
Here's a few more things I SHOULD HAVE included in the original post...
My car / the plan below :
1. Stock displacement LS1
2. Stock 98 heads
3. Would like the power up top to pull HARD at the end of the 1/4 mile
4. Wanted a choppy idle before, now I could care less.
5. This is a true summer DD and will be racing at the strip every weekend.
6. Current mods - SLP Lid, 3.73 gear, A4 w/ shift kit | Before cam goes in - Longtubes, 3" ORY, LS6 intake | After cam - Tune
7. Would like to spend as little $$ as possible but still want to get the job done right the first time. It will be done in my garage.
8. A4 - NOT STALLING IT
9. Stock suspension car, will add torque arm, SFC's, and shocks.
10. Would like to change valve springs in the car 1 time, don't want the cam to wear them out.
Here's a few more things I SHOULD HAVE included in the original post...
My car / the plan below :
1. Stock displacement LS1
2. Stock 98 heads
3. Would like the power up top to pull HARD at the end of the 1/4 mile
4. Wanted a choppy idle before, now I could care less.
5. This is a true summer DD and will be racing at the strip every weekend.
6. Current mods - SLP Lid, 3.73 gear, A4 w/ shift kit | Before cam goes in - Longtubes, 3" ORY, LS6 intake | After cam - Tune
7. Would like to spend as little $$ as possible but still want to get the job done right the first time. It will be done in my garage.
8. A4 - NOT STALLING IT
9. Stock suspension car, will add torque arm, SFC's, and shocks.
10. Would like to change valve springs in the car 1 time, don't want the cam to wear them out.
Last edited by b.lee; 04-14-2009 at 10:00 AM.
#43
TECH Senior Member
Euuhhh! My advice then is no cam.
>Just lighten that baby as much as you can,
>Shave the heads to raise compression.
>No trq arm needed (just get a poly bushing and a poly trans mount),
>Suspension: just LCAs and relocation bracket.
You do not want to stall and you do not want to change springs, so you shouldn't cam
>Just lighten that baby as much as you can,
>Shave the heads to raise compression.
>No trq arm needed (just get a poly bushing and a poly trans mount),
>Suspension: just LCAs and relocation bracket.
You do not want to stall and you do not want to change springs, so you shouldn't cam
#44
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Thanks for all your help Predator-Z
Here's a few more things I SHOULD HAVE included in the original post...
My car / the plan below :
1. Stock displacement LS1
2. Stock 98 heads
3. Would like the power up top to pull HARD at the end of the 1/4 mile
4. Wanted a choppy idle before, now I could care less.
5. This is a true summer DD and will be racing at the strip every weekend.
6. Current mods - SLP Lid, 3.73 gear, A4 w/ shift kit | Before cam goes in - Longtubes, 3" ORY, LS6 intake | After cam - Tune
7. Would like to spend as little $$ as possible but still want to get the job done right the first time. It will be done in my garage.
8. A4 - NOT STALLING IT
9. Stock suspension car, will add torque arm, SFC's, and shocks.
10. Would like to change valve springs in the car 1 time, don't want the cam to wear them out.
Here's a few more things I SHOULD HAVE included in the original post...
My car / the plan below :
1. Stock displacement LS1
2. Stock 98 heads
3. Would like the power up top to pull HARD at the end of the 1/4 mile
4. Wanted a choppy idle before, now I could care less.
5. This is a true summer DD and will be racing at the strip every weekend.
6. Current mods - SLP Lid, 3.73 gear, A4 w/ shift kit | Before cam goes in - Longtubes, 3" ORY, LS6 intake | After cam - Tune
7. Would like to spend as little $$ as possible but still want to get the job done right the first time. It will be done in my garage.
8. A4 - NOT STALLING IT
9. Stock suspension car, will add torque arm, SFC's, and shocks.
10. Would like to change valve springs in the car 1 time, don't want the cam to wear them out.
#46
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Man you need to go drive a local car with a SS3600. There has to be one. They are really not bad at all. I wished I would have ordered a SS4000 myself, but never having one I was hesitant. And now with the cam I NEED it.
#47
im interested in this same topic as well. im thinkin a gm hot cam or tr224? not to hijack but i am not ready to stall either. Whats a good price on a cam install? Any other cams not mentioned that should work good?
#48
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Thanks for all your help Predator-Z
Here's a few more things I SHOULD HAVE included in the original post...
My car / the plan below :
1. Stock displacement LS1
2. Stock 98 heads
3. Would like the power up top to pull HARD at the end of the 1/4 mile
4. Wanted a choppy idle before, now I could care less.
5. This is a true summer DD and will be racing at the strip every weekend.
6. Current mods - SLP Lid, 3.73 gear, A4 w/ shift kit | Before cam goes in - Longtubes, 3" ORY, LS6 intake | After cam - Tune
7. Would like to spend as little $$ as possible but still want to get the job done right the first time. It will be done in my garage.
8. A4 - NOT STALLING IT
9. Stock suspension car, will add torque arm, SFC's, and shocks.
10. Would like to change valve springs in the car 1 time, don't want the cam to wear them out.
Here's a few more things I SHOULD HAVE included in the original post...
My car / the plan below :
1. Stock displacement LS1
2. Stock 98 heads
3. Would like the power up top to pull HARD at the end of the 1/4 mile
4. Wanted a choppy idle before, now I could care less.
5. This is a true summer DD and will be racing at the strip every weekend.
6. Current mods - SLP Lid, 3.73 gear, A4 w/ shift kit | Before cam goes in - Longtubes, 3" ORY, LS6 intake | After cam - Tune
7. Would like to spend as little $$ as possible but still want to get the job done right the first time. It will be done in my garage.
8. A4 - NOT STALLING IT
9. Stock suspension car, will add torque arm, SFC's, and shocks.
10. Would like to change valve springs in the car 1 time, don't want the cam to wear them out.
if your going to race every weekend it seems stupid not to get a stall of some sort...3600 stall would do WONDERS with a TR224 or the 224/228 pred Z was talking about.
Valve springs are a wear item... its recommended to change them 20-30k miles with a bigger cam. I plan on changing mine at the 20k mark with my .595/.598 lift cam
to address 7. to get the job done right you really do need a stall, cam and bolt ons...a cam only A4 car with no stall =
if you don't want a stall DON'T put a cam in your A4 car PERIOD.
Chad
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Euuhhh! My advice then is no cam.
>Just lighten that baby as much as you can,
>Shave the heads to raise compression.
>No trq arm needed (just get a poly bushing and a poly trans mount),
>Suspension: just LCAs and relocation bracket.
You do not want to stall and you do not want to change springs, so you shouldn't cam
>Just lighten that baby as much as you can,
>Shave the heads to raise compression.
>No trq arm needed (just get a poly bushing and a poly trans mount),
>Suspension: just LCAs and relocation bracket.
You do not want to stall and you do not want to change springs, so you shouldn't cam
#50
Launching!
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Ok, you guys got me.
No cam for me.
Gonna just stick with just the bolt ons and tune. If it's not quick enough, then I'll have to stall/cam it at that time, or get another f-body with the M6.
No cam for me.
Gonna just stick with just the bolt ons and tune. If it's not quick enough, then I'll have to stall/cam it at that time, or get another f-body with the M6.
#51
TECH Senior Member
Trick is weight transfer.
#52
You can do it.. it's just not as optimal as these guys like. PM me if you have any questions I have A LOT of personal expierience with cam and no stall.