02 BLK WS6

iTrader: (11)

This is the 1st LS eagle crank that I've heard about. I've heard of several forged BBC eagle cranks letting go. I wouldn't use anything eagle. Callies FTMFW.

OUTLAWZ RACING

iTrader: (9)

First time for me also to hear it break. But with no oil pressure and its still spinning gettin hot the crank was **** anyway b4 it broke. I dont jump on bandwagons every time I hear a product fail unless its like very common. But lack of oil and high heat would be the blame IMHO. If that crank would have broke just out the blue then I would have a eery eye towards it.

Notmyvette

iTrader: (1)

In my opinion all or Most of he cranks/rods out there are made overseas and just machined in the US. I think both Eagle and Scat are, at least one of them is. I worked at a certain name brand factory where I unpacked our rods and they came wrapped in Japanese newspaper unmachined and we would do the machining and specs. If you look at the specs on Eagle and compare them to a set of "ebay store 4340 rods" they say the exact same...4340 forged, degassed and deburred, blah blah and they look the exact same....except for the name and price tag...

I actually have a set of Brand New forged 4340 LS series rods from an ebay store and they look just like yours...I can post pics if interested in seeing or buying them

drz

iTrader: (3)

Wait, sooooo a 25,000 mile 408 with nitrous looses oil pressure and toasts the crank and a bunch of rods to the point that the crank broke. I'm not seeing how Eagle can possibly claim any responsibility here for the damage. The implications in this thread that if a "better" crank was used, the engine wouldn't have blown up at all, or at least would have blown up "better" (lol) is just crazy talk! If an engine looses oil pressure and it isn't immediately shut down, it's going to blow up - the only question is how it's going to go. But one thing's certain, the crank is going to be junked anyways.

I'll tell you the alternative scenario: toasted rod breaks before the crank lets go, junks the crank, block, multiple rods, 1 cylinder head, oil pan, pickup, and windage tray. If the block is savable, you got off light!

HWI

iTrader: (2)

Breaking a forged crank is crazy, but it happening on a 500hp motor is ******* ridiculous.

9secondsflat

i feel your pain...my guess is their was an error made by the person who assembled the engine....

40Mike

The problem started when they forged your crank in China. Make sure you replace the crank with a Forged in USA replacement. It’s my understanding that both Eagle and Scat cranks and rods are sourced from Asia (China, India, etc) and may be machine finished in the US. It’s sad but there are only a very few US manufactures who presently forge in the US.
Look out for the budget offerings from even Callies as their budget versions are also forged off shore – OFF SHORE **** HAS NO PLACE IN MY TOYS!

Hardy Handshakes

Old Geezer

iTrader: (3)

I agree. B4 throwing down on the crank, maybe inspect the bearings, block, caps, tuneup, etc, more closely.[More closely than out of focus cell fone pics].
There are more possibilities than a bad crank, and a loss of oil psi, to be considered.

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

I think OUTLAWZ RACING got it right. With all of the other circumstances the crank had no other option, but to break.

Post the pics (smaller preferably) in the carnage thread.

LostCauseZ06

iTrader: (4)

you guys.... as i stated, there are NO spun bearings. i have the rods off the crank and the rod bearings look fine. they definately got hot but they are not worn down at all. the main cap looks fine except its been "rubbed" on the side where the counter balance was hitting it.


The main bearing is thin, but they are both still intact. i believe the block will be fine other than the counterbalance also rubbed the side of the main on the block as well. I will post pictures later tonight.


The rod bearings look fine minus some coked up oil from getting hot. they are not worn down hardly at all.



The wierd thing i noticed is that the crank is "darker" right up until the crank... IMMEDIATELY after the crack it is normal colored. no discoloration. almost like the heat stopped at a flaw in the casting and didnt transmit into the rest of the crank.



anybody want to buy 7 good rods and 7 good pistons? real cheap?

LostCauseZ06

iTrader: (4)

as i stated, this is not the only problem i have had with the crank. my rear freeze plug did not "seal" and was leaking oil all over my clutch. went through 2 clutches before i tracked down somebody else having the same problem of mysterious oil.


i was told by eagle to "jb weld it"

OUTLAWZ RACING

iTrader: (9)

Question>>>. The oil plug in the rear of the crank was leaking right? So would that have an effect on the oil ports on the crank to help with the bearings??? Im just courious bout it. Because if it does and it took you awhile to figure out the oil leak it may have affected the crank.


In any case good luck and Go better and Stronger

racer7088

If the thrust wiped out as well it might have also cracked from the counterweight hitting the block or main webbing then as well. Hopefully your block is saveable though.

racer7088

Unrelated problem of the freeze plug in the rear not sealing. The oil holes in the crank have no connection with this big freeze plug in the back of the crank. Several Eagle cranks back then were like this for a while and this was total BS.

Now they pressure check them. Seen this as well on more than a few other cranks too though even stock when people hit the freeze plug installing pilot bearings.

LostCauseZ06

iTrader: (4)

the whole engine actually looks surprisingly nice. i was very surprised. besides the crank smacking the bottom of the piston and rubbing the main everything is in perfect condition. the sides of the pistons look fine, there was no signs of detonation or not happy ring lands, the motor looks like it held up very well to some hard miles that were put on it.



the engine itself, as well as the customer service, have been one of the best experiences ive had with any product ive ever purchased. the part itself left a sour taste in my mouth but i would never hesitate or even think twice about ordering another motor, hell, a fleet of motors from Erik. He will be getting my return business and will definately be getting a good word from me whenever my close friends need engine work.



Thanks a ton for all the help Erik.



Mains 2,3, and 4 all look tight, no crank rubbage, no problems at all. they are colored perfectly and appear to be very tight still. I checked the block for any spots where the counterbalance would have hit it and i see absolutely zero impact marks. just slight rubbing on the main is all.


Guess we will find out when i get it all apart. The crank pulley is on SUPER tight and i need to go rent a puller tonight. then it should be all good to go to get the rest apart.

CalSpeedPerformance

iTrader: (64)

Sorry to say but this is the wrong way to try and make a manufacturer look bad and criticize their product (eagle)...

Eagle cranks werent designed to run with no oil for who knows how long and get so hot that it turns blue. Any crankshaft likely would have cracked or broken from what you had happen. No one goes around testing driving the car with no oil pressure for possibly seconds to several minutes to see if their product will fail.

Also, it doesnt matter that you didnt spin the bearing, Ive seen motor completely seize up due to failed oil pumps (SBF/SBC's) and melt down the motor where nothing was useable but not spin a bearing.


We use eagle cranks in about half of our builds, weve never had one failure on anything up to the 1000 rwhp range (weve never ran one in a motor making more than that, usually the customer opt's for higher $ parts in those builds)

racer7088

Yeah it does suck but I think that LostCauseZ06 is just PO'd with the other problems that crank had at the begining and this last deal is the cherry on top of it all so I understand his frustration. I hope when you get it all apart your block is still good.

I do agree though that I've still never seen any failures on normal stuff even with the Eagles besides the deal where the rear plugs weren't sealing but they did start pressure testing every rear plug after that happened at least to their credit and that was several years ago now.

NemeSS

iTrader: (127)

imo if GM were ever to make GMPP brand 4 in. stroke cranks made of the same material as the stock pieces. they would dominate the aftermarket.
some properly prepared stock crank engines have gone well into the 1k+ hp range. with forced induction. dont see y a 4in. crank made of the same material would be any different. at least for n/a street builds and such

OUTLAWZ RACING

iTrader: (9)

Ok cool I was just wondring

racer7088

I'm not trying to be a party pooper but we have like 9 OEM stock cranks with cracks in number one journal in our junk scrap metal pile right now. Again most are blower engines. Cast iron is like the particle board of metal unfortunately and that's why no one use it for extreme usage.

The turbo applications are very easy on parts and we have had several 1000 RWHP turbo deals with stock cranks that worked great but the blower deals eat the stock cranks sometimes and they crack up there also on number one journal 90 per cent of the time. Sometimes they even crack in the back too!

GM's 4.000 stroke LS7 crank is a steel piece but it's not super pretty. The machining on the other hand is very very nice on the LS7 crank but it won't balance very easily to normal parts since it was setup for the Ti rods etc. and has a very light bobweight.