New Motor, no oil pressure.
New Motor, no oil pressure. Had the shortblock rebuilt by a local machine shop. Reassembled everything myself. Using a ported TSP Oil pump (brand new). Engine starts first crank every time I hit it, and sounds great.
I tried to prime the system a few times. Went to start, no pressure. Hooked up a mechanical gauge just in case the electrical gauge isn't working. Still no pressure.
Pulled the oil pan, replaced oil pick up tube and oil pick up tube o-ring. Loctited pick up tube bolt.
Tried to prime system by disabling the fuel pump and pulling the coil pack plugs, turned over 3 times for 10 sec each. Didn't see any bumps. Hooked everything back up, car came right on and idled. Let it idle for 8 sec thinking it needed time to pick up the oil.... Nothing.
pulled driver side valve cover.... Completely dry.
I'm starting to get worried. I haven't really let the car run for more then 3 secs at a time except for the last time i let it run for 8 seconds... Does it need more time to pump up through the lifters if the lifters are dry? I let them soak overnight when i assembled the motor but that was 4 months ago as there was a long delay in getting my radiator and headers in to finish the car.
My next step logically would be to pull the timing cover and check the pump to be sure it's installed right... I have another new GM pump that's new, but non ported I may try on there.
What else could possibly be the problem? Am I not letting the car run long enough to pump up the lifters with oil?
I tried to prime the system a few times. Went to start, no pressure. Hooked up a mechanical gauge just in case the electrical gauge isn't working. Still no pressure.
Pulled the oil pan, replaced oil pick up tube and oil pick up tube o-ring. Loctited pick up tube bolt.
Tried to prime system by disabling the fuel pump and pulling the coil pack plugs, turned over 3 times for 10 sec each. Didn't see any bumps. Hooked everything back up, car came right on and idled. Let it idle for 8 sec thinking it needed time to pick up the oil.... Nothing.
pulled driver side valve cover.... Completely dry.
I'm starting to get worried. I haven't really let the car run for more then 3 secs at a time except for the last time i let it run for 8 seconds... Does it need more time to pump up through the lifters if the lifters are dry? I let them soak overnight when i assembled the motor but that was 4 months ago as there was a long delay in getting my radiator and headers in to finish the car.
My next step logically would be to pull the timing cover and check the pump to be sure it's installed right... I have another new GM pump that's new, but non ported I may try on there.
What else could possibly be the problem? Am I not letting the car run long enough to pump up the lifters with oil?
Thats a good question. The engine shop already had cleaned and reinstalled the rear cover when I got the engine back so I don't know if they would have done that or not. They are a proffessional shop with LSx experience.
After reading some of the other threads about no oil pressure on start up it looks like the oil pump is so dry it can't create suction on the pick up tube. I didn't put any vaseline on the pump to help it seal or pre-fill it with oil (it's sat 4 months since I put it together before I could actually start the car). One solution (and it sounds crazy enough it will work) is to overfill the crank case by about 3 times the normal amount of oil, pull the plugs and unplug the fuel pump, then crank the engine until it primes (which may take alot of cranking) but pulling the plugs takes the compression out allowing the engine to turn over faster and prime easier.
I'm going to go try this tonight before I tear the motor apart. I'm really REALLY hoping this works.
I'm going to go try this tonight before I tear the motor apart. I'm really REALLY hoping this works.
All is good! Thanks for all your input, much appreciated.
I went ahead and pulled the plugs, coil pack connectors, and injector connectors (started smelling pretty rich after cranking it a bit), then turned the motor. Took about 3-4 times of cranking it for about 10 seconds to see the pressure. I pulled the driver's side valve cover to ensure oil was up there, and all was good. Put it all back together and started it up, sounds good and oil pressure is fine.
And here I was ready to come home from work today and start pulling off the pump...
I went ahead and pulled the plugs, coil pack connectors, and injector connectors (started smelling pretty rich after cranking it a bit), then turned the motor. Took about 3-4 times of cranking it for about 10 seconds to see the pressure. I pulled the driver's side valve cover to ensure oil was up there, and all was good. Put it all back together and started it up, sounds good and oil pressure is fine.
And here I was ready to come home from work today and start pulling off the pump...
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Verdad Gallardo Unfortunately my LS1 rebuild book is at home and not at work. I have the LS1/LS6 performance book and they just talk about the seal, pick up, ported oil pumps and windage trays.
+1 for the bar bell plug in the back of the block.
FYI: a lot of people dont get oil pressure by just cranking the motor via the starter. i know u started it and ran it for about 10 seconds, and it should have built up pressure by then. i think it only took 3 seconds or so for me to see oil pressure in my car
FYI: a lot of people dont get oil pressure by just cranking the motor via the starter. i know u started it and ran it for about 10 seconds, and it should have built up pressure by then. i think it only took 3 seconds or so for me to see oil pressure in my car
I understand the barbell missing, as I understand it's a pressure relief valve and it's function would be to dump oil back into the pan when the pressure gets to high would I be correct in that assumption? I just absolutely can not imagine that the shop that put the block together would forget that.
ok i pulled the engine, took off the trans, pulled the clutch and Flywheel, removed the rear cover and the barbell is most definately in place. I can't figure out how to remove it to even look at it. It took me from about 7 pm till now to do all this and I have to leave for work tomorrow at 5a so I figured I better call it a night. When I get home tomorrow I will pull the crank pulley, water pump, and front cover and check/pack the oil pump with vaseline or white lithium grease, check the cam cover gasket. It looked like there was plenty of oil in the bottom of the block, but then i did fill it up with about 19 qts of oil just to see if i could force prime the pump (which didn't work, still zero pressure) so I'm thinking either the cam bearings are not installed right or the cam cover gasket is no good. Either way I'll know tomorrow. I called my engine builder and he was very nice and understanding. He said to check the relief valve to see if it was there first, then give him a call and go from there.
Tomorrow is my last day at work and then I have two weeks off to finish the car and then move to florida where I start my new job may 11th. So come hell or high water this WILL be fixed before next weekend. Any advice at this point?
Tomorrow is my last day at work and then I have two weeks off to finish the car and then move to florida where I start my new job may 11th. So come hell or high water this WILL be fixed before next weekend. Any advice at this point?
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,043
Likes: 0
From: Texas and Qatar
The TSP pumps are prelubed in the form of a generous coating of Permatex engine assembly lube. It should need no additional "grease" to prime itself.
There is another plug (a metal cup plug) directly to the drivers side of the oil pump, if missing; it too will cause no-oil pressure. The only other thing I can think of would be a loose or missing cam thrust plate. Don't laugh, I had an engine sent to me with one loose from another shop!
There is another plug (a metal cup plug) directly to the drivers side of the oil pump, if missing; it too will cause no-oil pressure. The only other thing I can think of would be a loose or missing cam thrust plate. Don't laugh, I had an engine sent to me with one loose from another shop!
Not top change the topic but what does it take to pull the oil pan off in the car? What all has to be removed? Thanks The TSP pumps are prelubed in the form of a generous coating of Permatex engine assembly lube. It should need no additional "grease" to prime itself.
There is another plug (a metal cup plug) directly to the drivers side of the oil pump, if missing; it too will cause no-oil pressure. The only other thing I can think of would be a loose or missing cam thrust plate. Don't laugh, I had an engine sent to me with one loose from another shop!
There is another plug (a metal cup plug) directly to the drivers side of the oil pump, if missing; it too will cause no-oil pressure. The only other thing I can think of would be a loose or missing cam thrust plate. Don't laugh, I had an engine sent to me with one loose from another shop!
Did you also try the other pump? When I built my moter I cut a quart bottle in half and held it up in the pick up tube and turned the engine over with a wrench on the crank bolt. It sucked all the oil out after about a min. Also before you put the engine back in I would pull the rocker covers and dump oil all over the rockers and down the push rod holes to the lifters. Sorry to hear about your troubles hope you get it figured out soon.
Well this engine is in a 93 Mazda Rx7 so it's actually EASIER to work on then an F-body. I Just drop the subframe (6 bolts, leave a-arms connected) and unbolt the steering rack and I have enough room to pull the pan and pick up tube.
Also, I'm moving to Ft. Walton Beach, FL.
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,043
Likes: 0
From: Texas and Qatar
Do you mean the retainer plate that holds the cam in place with 4 bolts? Is there any gasket underneath it to hold oil? or is it just part of the retainer plate? I can't remember. It's been awhile since I installed it. I think I'm going to replace that plate as well just in case it's worn It is the origional plate that came on the engine. Probably has 110k miles.
0 oil pressure should be easier to locate than it seems to be lately. Low oil pressure is much more
