The WTF to do for a twin 67mm bottom end
Thread Starter
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 6,353
Likes: 6
From: East Coast
The WTF to do for a twin 67mm bottom end Long story short, currently running a twin precision 67mm turbos, LS6 bottom end, HEAD STUDS. I run AFR box stock 205's,... and a 233 237 .649 .598 on a 112, running through a stock FAST 90 and unported GM 90, 60 pound siemens, and a maxed out racetronix fuel system. 787rwhp, 696ft-lbs on 11.5psi, 12 degrees of timing, shutting down at 5500rpms.
The car is not a drag car. Think more along the lines of a standing mile car. Something for sustained RPM's and sustained speeds. It does get driven on the street. That said.
I have a head gasket problem, stock gaskets,..studs. I'm not going to replace the gaskets, for me to have a bottom end failure happen right around the corner. I do the work myself but, I can't afford to have to work on FIXINg something every weekend.
So,..I have ANOTHER LS1, laying around,.... and there is a LQ9 laying around.
I AM ON A BUDGET, so, I wanna buy pistons, and rods. Possibly a crank as well, cubes since the turbos will take care of that. I weighed my car, and it wieghed 3148 as is,... so, I don't want to add ALOT of weight. Roll cage will go in soon,...so, I'll l add weight there. So, I am hesitant in going to cast iron.
I'd like to make, since I am already past a goal, something like 1000-1300 rwhp. How stupid would I be to try and do that with only an LS1? I understand the LQ9 is MUCh better for strength. I also figure its about 80 lbs more,..which isn't much.
Give me an idea for a proper bottom end setup. I will more then likely KEEP MY TOP END(fast/afrs/etc) with the possibility of going L92's.
Thanks-
"confused"
The car is not a drag car. Think more along the lines of a standing mile car. Something for sustained RPM's and sustained speeds. It does get driven on the street. That said.
I have a head gasket problem, stock gaskets,..studs. I'm not going to replace the gaskets, for me to have a bottom end failure happen right around the corner. I do the work myself but, I can't afford to have to work on FIXINg something every weekend.
So,..I have ANOTHER LS1, laying around,.... and there is a LQ9 laying around.
I AM ON A BUDGET, so, I wanna buy pistons, and rods. Possibly a crank as well, cubes since the turbos will take care of that. I weighed my car, and it wieghed 3148 as is,... so, I don't want to add ALOT of weight. Roll cage will go in soon,...so, I'll l add weight there. So, I am hesitant in going to cast iron.
I'd like to make, since I am already past a goal, something like 1000-1300 rwhp. How stupid would I be to try and do that with only an LS1? I understand the LQ9 is MUCh better for strength. I also figure its about 80 lbs more,..which isn't much.
Give me an idea for a proper bottom end setup. I will more then likely KEEP MY TOP END(fast/afrs/etc) with the possibility of going L92's.
Thanks-
"confused"
Let me make sure that I'm reading this correctly:
You want to build a "budget" 1000+ rwhp engine?? I guess you could probably do that with scat/eagle products....but how long would it last??
As far as weight goes, I've read in multiple places that the weight difference between the aluminum and cast iron blocks is only roughly 65lbs...so definitely build the LQ9 (imho). As far as internals...If you don't plan on stroking the engine, many people claim that the factory crank is good for 1000hp(at the crank, or course)....so that will put you a ways off from your goal. So...after-market crank is pretty much required. Personally, I would (and am using) a Callies crank, Oliver rods, and Diamond pistons. I don't think you can avoid the high bill for parts...again, IMHO.
You want to build a "budget" 1000+ rwhp engine?? I guess you could probably do that with scat/eagle products....but how long would it last??
As far as weight goes, I've read in multiple places that the weight difference between the aluminum and cast iron blocks is only roughly 65lbs...so definitely build the LQ9 (imho). As far as internals...If you don't plan on stroking the engine, many people claim that the factory crank is good for 1000hp(at the crank, or course)....so that will put you a ways off from your goal. So...after-market crank is pretty much required. Personally, I would (and am using) a Callies crank, Oliver rods, and Diamond pistons. I don't think you can avoid the high bill for parts...again, IMHO.
People have made 4 digit power with the stock crank, but proper machining of the block and crank are the key to success there.
I would think if you want some safety at high RPM, a forged crank is good piece of mind.
You know I am anti-iron block, but that's just my opinion....there's plenty of guys here making well over 1000 rwhp with LS2 blocks, I still think thats the best option, if not a properly machined LS1 should do the trick.
I would think if you want some safety at high RPM, a forged crank is good piece of mind.
You know I am anti-iron block, but that's just my opinion....there's plenty of guys here making well over 1000 rwhp with LS2 blocks, I still think thats the best option, if not a properly machined LS1 should do the trick.
Thread Starter
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 6,353
Likes: 6
From: East Coast
Let me make sure that I'm reading this correctly:
You want to build a "budget" 1000+ rwhp engine?? I guess you could probably do that with scat/eagle products....but how long would it last??
As far as weight goes, I've read in multiple places that the weight difference between the aluminum and cast iron blocks is only roughly 65lbs...so definitely build the LQ9 (imho). As far as internals...If you don't plan on stroking the engine, many people claim that the factory crank is good for 1000hp(at the crank, or course)....so that will put you a ways off from your goal. So...after-market crank is pretty much required. Personally, I would (and am using) a Callies crank, Oliver rods, and Diamond pistons. I don't think you can avoid the high bill for parts...again, IMHO.
You want to build a "budget" 1000+ rwhp engine?? I guess you could probably do that with scat/eagle products....but how long would it last??
As far as weight goes, I've read in multiple places that the weight difference between the aluminum and cast iron blocks is only roughly 65lbs...so definitely build the LQ9 (imho). As far as internals...If you don't plan on stroking the engine, many people claim that the factory crank is good for 1000hp(at the crank, or course)....so that will put you a ways off from your goal. So...after-market crank is pretty much required. Personally, I would (and am using) a Callies crank, Oliver rods, and Diamond pistons. I don't think you can avoid the high bill for parts...again, IMHO.
I've built the whole car on a budget, ..so yes, thats the idea. Thanks for your opinion.
Yes,..waiting for the punchline?
People have made 4 digit power with the stock crank, but proper machining of the block and crank are the key to success there.
I would think if you want some safety at high RPM, a forged crank is good piece of mind.
You know I am anti-iron block, but that's just my opinion....there's plenty of guys here making well over 1000 rwhp with LS2 blocks, I still think thats the best option, if not a properly machined LS1 should do the trick.
I would think if you want some safety at high RPM, a forged crank is good piece of mind.
You know I am anti-iron block, but that's just my opinion....there's plenty of guys here making well over 1000 rwhp with LS2 blocks, I still think thats the best option, if not a properly machined LS1 should do the trick.
People have made 4 digit power with the stock crank, but proper machining of the block and crank are the key to success there.
I would think if you want some safety at high RPM, a forged crank is good piece of mind.
You know I am anti-iron block, but that's just my opinion....there's plenty of guys here making well over 1000 rwhp with LS2 blocks, I still think thats the best option, if not a properly machined LS1 should do the trick.
I would think if you want some safety at high RPM, a forged crank is good piece of mind.
You know I am anti-iron block, but that's just my opinion....there's plenty of guys here making well over 1000 rwhp with LS2 blocks, I still think thats the best option, if not a properly machined LS1 should do the trick.
The block and rotating assembly have to be machined perfectly to be able to live at those power levels.
Tolerances on critical bearings like the main and rod bearings will go a long way towards living at big power levels.
Tolerances on critical bearings like the main and rod bearings will go a long way towards living at big power levels.
Trending Topics
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
on a budget, i'd say compstar crank and rods, wiesco pistons, nice ring pack and have the block/heads setup for 1/2" head studs. at that level i'd do a ERL blocked 427 but that is way out of the budget range.... about $3500 + LS2 core. like everyone has said the assembly and quality of the machine work will have to be spot on to have any longevity, so i'd make a call to HKE. i dunno if he is a sponsor but a few sponsors sell his engines. i have met very few people that are as meticulous as erik, lol. he did a 402 for a friend of mine that has twin 67's on it and it has held up very well, but he used much more expensive parts in it
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 6,524
Likes: 1
From: Western Burbs of Detroit
http://www.schwankeshortblocks.com/S...rt%20Block.htm
5.3 stroked to a 388
The guy there is pretty cool too. I am sure he could hook you up with certain area specific upgrades. (bearings, rings, upgrades etc)
If this is way off base, then sorry. Just trying to help.
5.3 stroked to a 388
The guy there is pretty cool too. I am sure he could hook you up with certain area specific upgrades. (bearings, rings, upgrades etc)
If this is way off base, then sorry. Just trying to help.
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 6,524
Likes: 1
From: Western Burbs of Detroit
http://www.schwankeshortblocks.com/S...rt%20Block.htm
5.3 iron bored to 5.7 (348) Iron block should hold the power. 1699.00 ^^^
Again best of luck.
5.3 iron bored to 5.7 (348) Iron block should hold the power. 1699.00 ^^^
Again best of luck.
I'd go LS2. Or, better still, sell all those motors and buy a box-stock LS9 long block and throw that in there. I've got a hunch those will make the 2JZ look like a Honda 1.6L strength-wise.
But budget, right, LS2 stock crank, forged pistons and rods, 5 layer MLS gaskets (zr1), and your current top end. Build it right and it'll hold.
Also, PM'd you.
But budget, right, LS2 stock crank, forged pistons and rods, 5 layer MLS gaskets (zr1), and your current top end. Build it right and it'll hold.
Also, PM'd you.
