How difficult to replace valvesprings?
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How difficult to replace valvesprings? I should replace the valvesprings and the seals, ho difficult is this job in a F-body with the engine still in the car?
Technically I know how to do this job, I'm just scared about the position of the parts hidden under the cowl, can I really reach them?
Thanks for any comment
Stefano
Technically I know how to do this job, I'm just scared about the position of the parts hidden under the cowl, can I really reach them?
Thanks for any comment
Stefano
Get the crane spring tool and it will make it a lot easier. The biggest pain in the *** is getting to the back passenger side bolt that holds the coil packs on. That bolt is a mother fuc--- I would get the smallest 10mm you can get your hands on to get it off. And do not put it back on. good luck
I would also agree on the Crane tool, provided you are still running stock heads that have the stock GM rocker pedastals that can be removed (the Crane tool requires you to remove it to work properly). Other than that, just remove as much stuff as you can to give yourself plenty of room to work.
Since you'll be removing the rocker arms, and also assuming that you are still using the stock rocker bolts, do yourself a favor and use a 6-point socket to remove them, not a 12-point like I did. I ended up rounding off one of the bolts, and it just so happened to be the far back one on the passenger's side. I can assure you...taking a Dremel to the head of that bolt to grind it off after all other methods failed was NOT fun.
Since you'll be removing the rocker arms, and also assuming that you are still using the stock rocker bolts, do yourself a favor and use a 6-point socket to remove them, not a 12-point like I did. I ended up rounding off one of the bolts, and it just so happened to be the far back one on the passenger's side. I can assure you...taking a Dremel to the head of that bolt to grind it off after all other methods failed was NOT fun.
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OK thanks guys, can you really see what you're doing or you jjust feel it?
How dou you remove the seals? Just using a plier?
And how do you install the new ones? I think you need to tap them in place, is there a special too for that? or just a piece of pipe?
How dou you remove the seals? Just using a plier?
And how do you install the new ones? I think you need to tap them in place, is there a special too for that? or just a piece of pipe?
It worked great, & its only $32. Made changin springs easy.
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I used a Snap On cotter key puller & pryed them out, or others use pliers. Gotta be careful with pliers so you dont damage the valve stem area. To tap the seals in place, I used a craftsman deepwell 3/8 drive 12pt 7/16 socket, & tapped them on. It fits perfect around the metal edge of the seal.
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ls1howto.com rocks
take your time on the rear springs, i used a mirror to make sure the valve stem was centered on the new spring. i also used Tim's Valve Spring Tool, it works great!
take your time on the rear springs, i used a mirror to make sure the valve stem was centered on the new spring. i also used Tim's Valve Spring Tool, it works great!
Crane tool. Buy it... done.
Works great on the front and back. Take your time, have a magnet handy incase you drop the keepers. Also, when you are removing retainers and keepers from springs that have been in a long time, they sometimes pop and go flying. Be ready.
Works great on the front and back. Take your time, have a magnet handy incase you drop the keepers. Also, when you are removing retainers and keepers from springs that have been in a long time, they sometimes pop and go flying. Be ready.
I used that Tim's valve spring tool. It works pretty well and the price is right. I don't have any experience with the Crane tool but like the guys above me said, it supposedly works nicely. The job itself is easy. Watch out for flying keepers 
Flying keepers are not fun at all
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Something I found when doing my springs last year - If the keepers are stuck in the retainers, compressed air will NOT hold the valves shut. I used the Crane tool and it would just pop the valves open even at 130PSI. I ended up having to use a piece of nylon rope to hold the valves shut. Use a rag over the top of the valves to keep the keepers from flying.
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I dont know what the TDC method is exactly, but it sounds like what I do if I dont have compressed air.
Rotate the engine until the piston is at TDC for the cylinder of the springs being changed, so the valve can not drop into the chamber. Then also change the companion cylinder so you only have to rotate the engine four times.
Rotate the engine until the piston is at TDC for the cylinder of the springs being changed, so the valve can not drop into the chamber. Then also change the companion cylinder so you only have to rotate the engine four times.
I just made sure the piston was up where it needed to be by feeling into the spark plug hole with a straw...pretty ghetto, but it worked just fine.
If you follow the ls1 how to instructions TDC is easy to achieve. I also vouch for the crane tool and the magnet trick.... flying keepers can be a PITA if one ends up in the head and down by the lifter valley. :oops:
A note on changing the valve seals. Lube the insides up well, and before you tap them on with the socket remove the small springs as they are VERY easy to damage. Just remember to put them back on when your done.