lol... dont try to sound smart, doesnt suit you. As i already said if it wasnt the clutch, which it obviously isnt from what hes posted now, i said it was likely a rod bearing or a lifter right in my first post. who needs help with reading comprehension again?

 

Some day, if you ever graduate from high school, you'll realize how hilarious that post was.

The OP has no plans to open it up and fix it himself anyway, hasn't even popped a valve cover to try and narrow down the source of the noise. Likely it'll end up in a shop. As I said, he was just here to vent and waste our time.

There are three basic types of problem-posters here on LS1Tech:

1.) Competent and looking for ideas, will generally take what's posted and make good use of it.

2.) Incompetent but has tools, 50/50 odds he'll mess it up even worse than the original problem. But sometimes these guys work through it and it's a good pastime to help them along.

3.) Venters. Either no mechanical aptitude or no spare time to get under the hood, either way he accomplishes nothing but wasting time. The outcome is always the same: it ends up at his mechanic's shop.

The OP looked like a #2 at first, his sig showed he invests in good equipment. The more he posts, the more clear it is he's a 3.

 

Pulled the valve covers, and the rockers. Everything seems fine. I just dropped the tranny and cranked the car, aaaaaaaaannnnnnndddddd it still knocks. So now its time to pull the motor. Man I just don’t have time for this. Being 3000 miles from home, "My home is in Texas and I’m currently at my home in Washington State" Just to clear that up for crainholio... But being so far from my tools and everything else is making all of this a real pain in the ***. And I just noticed crainholio that you have around 1300 posts here on tech... Are all of them posts you made ragging on people.??? Man that's too bad. Your life must be miserable.

 

Disregard this post.

 

Good luck with tearing the motor down. I hope your car isn't down for a long time seeing as your away from your all your tools.

 

Just thought about this. Man I dont know why I didnt mention it before. But my "Service VEHICLE" light came on shortly after the knocking started. Does that tell ya anything..??

 

It's probably because your PCM is detecting excessive knock (that you may not have heard at first), or you have a miss. Get it scanned if possible. My engine spun a rod bearing last night and it's knocking so bad it won't even run unless you get it up to about 1200-1500 RPM. Did you check the bolts on your flywheel when you pulled the trans? Loose flywheel bolts can cause a knocking sound. Also, my oil pressure only dropped about 10 PSI from normal when the bearing went, so don't assume that you'll lose all pressure if a bearing fails. Pull the oil filter and cut it open. If you see a lot of coppery shavings in there, you definitely spun a bearing. That's the easiest way to tell. If not, you're only out $8 for a filter.

 

It tells me I underestimated you.



And I suppose you actually telling us what code it's stored is completely out of the question...

 

The "service vehicle" light is for "body codes", i.e. things like ABS, TCS, etc. Had he thown a "check engine" light then he could pull a code to help us.

 

I'm in a funky country town where most here have never even heard of a WS6. So getting the codes read IS OUT OF THE QUESTION. And just wondering, are ALL 1300 of your posts just you being a smartass and not really trying to help anyone.??

 

Cheap laptop and generic scanner from scantool.net and you're in business. If you want to be able to diagnose and fix your cars, you need to invest in tools.


I'd say about 2/3 are actually helpful, the other 1/3 are of the type you've been getting.

If the person posts incoherently, eg. "wastegate all the way day" he gets a kick in the shins.

If the guy's just here to waste everyone's time, whine about not having tools or whatever, see above.

By now you should be able to fathom that you lack the stuff necessary to fix it and conclude that a flatbed truck is your future...or whip out your checkbook and get what you need to fix it.

 

Crainholio, take it easy man. That kind of attitude would **** me off as well. How do you want poeple to listen if you come on as an A** Wipe. Even if advice is good, they would brush it off.
Be patient, you'll look better at the end and poeple will thank you for good advice and help given.

 

Pretty late to be awake and posting from Dubai...sleep much?

To your point, most people are here to learn, share, or both. I agree.

Mods can ban me anytime they want. I will never indulge whiners.

The idea that the town he's in having never heard of a WS6 somehow precludes him from getting codes scanned is lame. Same OBD-II protocol is in every other 1996-and-up vehicle in his town, somehow they're getting fixed.

 

It is 19:25, Saturday here, too early for sleep, I aint that old
So you comment is illogical, but a direct reflection of your attitude.

 

Where in WA are you?

 

Alright my car had a bent pushrod, that did what you are describing and then when it finally broke that's when the check engine light came on. I pulled the valve covers, and the ignition fuse, and had somebody crank the car over while I watched the rocker arms... I noticed one wasnt moving, it was a broken pushrod, cost me a whole $3.00 to fix it ( for the pen magnet to get it out ). Push rod was free...

I've also spun a bearing, and seeing as you've driven your car a bit there's an easy way to tell if that's it.
Jack your car up, let it run for a few seconds, then get under it and drain out some oil.
If you see little metallic flakes in the oil, you're pulling the engine... it's a bearing.

Both of those things can be done in a driveway with very minimal tools.

 

Charlie,

Cut your oil filter open right away like the guy said already before you do anymore damage. You will know a lot after you do this. If you have a bearing going south then you will see the copper in between the pleates in abundance. Hopefully it's something else though but you'll know right away if you spun a bearing.

 

Im in Moses Lake WA.

And as for an update on the car. Ive ripped the motor out "MYSELF" and tore it down. Spunt rod bearing.!!!! Just what I needed. So, the motor is at a machine shop in Spokane WA. They mentioned the option of fixing the crank, but I bought a new one. The could also fix the rod, but I opted for a new one of those as well. New main, cam and rod bearings. New lifters and a little hone and it's going back together next week. Oh, and a new Melling oil pump.

My issue here is, no one knows what caused the spunt rod bearing.

 

I take back all the wisecracks. Sorry to hear the diagnosis but glad you dug in and got it done! Not good news, but good decision.

Which rod was it? (I'm betting #4, same one that failed on two LS1s at Bondurant when they were running M1 5-30)

Hard use and Mobil-1 5W-30 caused it. Possibly low oil level also, did you pull the dipstick before you hit the track?

Drifting is similar to road course racing, except that it lacks the whole "going fast" part. Lots of oil slosh.

Conventional wisdom with F-body LS1s is to fill 1 quart above the full mark. I've been doing it since 2004, running Mobil-1 5W-40 or 15W-50 on Indy, Memphis, Lime Rock, and Pocono...no spun bearings.

Since Mobil quit selling 5W-40, I saw several Vette drivers using Mobil-1 10W-40 High Mileage at Pocono this season and they liked it.

Please post which rod bearing failed, it's good data.

 

95 percent of spun rods are from incorrect bearing clearances and/or lack of oil. You may have areated your oil from teh drifting and the turbo and ended up with more bubbles than air. We've used accusumps on some deals like that.