Oh damn, a knock.. What the hell???
The OP has no plans to open it up and fix it himself anyway, hasn't even popped a valve cover to try and narrow down the source of the noise. Likely it'll end up in a shop. As I said, he was just here to vent and waste our time.
There are three basic types of problem-posters here on LS1Tech:
1.) Competent and looking for ideas, will generally take what's posted and make good use of it.
2.) Incompetent but has tools, 50/50 odds he'll mess it up even worse than the original problem. But sometimes these guys work through it and it's a good pastime to help them along.
3.) Venters. Either no mechanical aptitude or no spare time to get under the hood, either way he accomplishes nothing but wasting time. The outcome is always the same: it ends up at his mechanic's shop.
The OP looked like a #2 at first, his sig showed he invests in good equipment. The more he posts, the more clear it is he's a 3.

It tells me I underestimated you.

And I suppose you actually telling us what code it's stored is completely out of the question...
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I'm in a funky country town where most here have never even heard of a WS6. So getting the codes read IS OUT OF THE QUESTION. And just wondering, are ALL 1300 of your posts just you being a smartass and not really trying to help anyone.??
If the person posts incoherently, eg. "wastegate all the way day" he gets a kick in the shins.
If the guy's just here to waste everyone's time, whine about not having tools or whatever, see above.
By now you should be able to fathom that you lack the stuff necessary to fix it and conclude that a flatbed truck is your future...or whip out your checkbook and get what you need to fix it.
Be patient, you'll look better at the end and poeple will thank you for good advice and help given.
Be patient, you'll look better at the end and poeple will thank you for good advice and help given.
To your point, most people are here to learn, share, or both. I agree.
Mods can ban me anytime they want. I will never indulge whiners.

The idea that the town he's in having never heard of a WS6 somehow precludes him from getting codes scanned is lame. Same OBD-II protocol is in every other 1996-and-up vehicle in his town, somehow they're getting fixed.
To your point, most people are here to learn, share, or both. I agree.
Mods can ban me anytime they want. I will never indulge whiners.

The idea that the town he's in having never heard of a WS6 somehow precludes him from getting codes scanned is lame. Same OBD-II protocol is in every other 1996-and-up vehicle in his town, somehow they're getting fixed.

So you comment is illogical, but a direct reflection of your attitude.
I've also spun a bearing, and seeing as you've driven your car a bit there's an easy way to tell if that's it.
Jack your car up, let it run for a few seconds, then get under it and drain out some oil.
If you see little metallic flakes in the oil, you're pulling the engine... it's a bearing.
Both of those things can be done in a driveway with very minimal tools.
Cut your oil filter open right away like the guy said already before you do anymore damage. You will know a lot after you do this. If you have a bearing going south then you will see the copper in between the pleates in abundance. Hopefully it's something else though but you'll know right away if you spun a bearing.
Im in Moses Lake WA.
And as for an update on the car. Ive ripped the motor out "MYSELF" and tore it down. Spunt rod bearing.!!!! Just what I needed. So, the motor is at a machine shop in Spokane WA. They mentioned the option of fixing the crank, but I bought a new one. The could also fix the rod, but I opted for a new one of those as well. New main, cam and rod bearings. New lifters and a little hone and it's going back together next week. Oh, and a new Melling oil pump.
My issue here is, no one knows what caused the spunt rod bearing.
Which rod was it? (I'm betting #4, same one that failed on two LS1s at Bondurant when they were running M1 5-30)
Hard use and Mobil-1 5W-30 caused it. Possibly low oil level also, did you pull the dipstick before you hit the track?
Drifting is similar to road course racing, except that it lacks the whole "going fast" part.
Lots of oil slosh. Conventional wisdom with F-body LS1s is to fill 1 quart above the full mark. I've been doing it since 2004, running Mobil-1 5W-40 or 15W-50 on Indy, Memphis, Lime Rock, and Pocono...no spun bearings.
Since Mobil quit selling 5W-40, I saw several Vette drivers using Mobil-1 10W-40 High Mileage at Pocono this season and they liked it.
Please post which rod bearing failed, it's good data.
And as for an update on the car. Ive ripped the motor out "MYSELF" and tore it down. Spunt rod bearing.!!!! Just what I needed. So, the motor is at a machine shop in Spokane WA. They mentioned the option of fixing the crank, but I bought a new one. The could also fix the rod, but I opted for a new one of those as well. New main, cam and rod bearings. New lifters and a little hone and it's going back together next week. Oh, and a new Melling oil pump.
My issue here is, no one knows what caused the spunt rod bearing.





