hotacam????
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From: Nashville, TN
hotcam???? i am about to buy the hotcam kit from scoggin dickey. what exactly is included in the kit? also, for the guys who have the hotcam, when you installed it, what all should i change when i get my cam(other than the springs). since the cam is realitavely small.......do i need to still change pushords, retainers, timing chain, oil pump....etc????
thanks for any help!
Tim
thanks for any help!
Tim
Last edited by tim99ws6; Nov 5, 2003 at 11:22 PM.
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From: Orlando
Depending on mileage, on a 99 car you may want to do a chain. Which one depends on you. I put a single JWIS chain in mine. Oil pump? Again, up to you. I did not swap mine. You do not need to swap pushrods either as long as all of your's are straight. Chances are you'll have at least one that's not completely straight. You don't need titanium retainers either, but they make the valvetrain lighter and the lighter you can make it the better.
I used the following with my cam swap:
Comp 918 springs
Comp 772 Ti retainers
Comp hardened 7.4" pushrods.
The way I figured, the tighter the valvetrain components, the lesser the chance of wrapping pushrods or valves and the lighter the valvetrain, the less stress the engine would see in the valvetrain at high RPM's. Stock retainers and pushrods will work but you may want to consider upgrading them.
I used the following with my cam swap:
Comp 918 springs
Comp 772 Ti retainers
Comp hardened 7.4" pushrods.
The way I figured, the tighter the valvetrain components, the lesser the chance of wrapping pushrods or valves and the lighter the valvetrain, the less stress the engine would see in the valvetrain at high RPM's. Stock retainers and pushrods will work but you may want to consider upgrading them.
I changed the intake, cam, springs, crank pulley, retainers, valve seals, timing set, thermostat, oil pump, and I bought new gaskets. I had new pushrods, but mine were straight so we reused them. I had 65,000 miles on the car. The kit come with cam, springs, and retainers.
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From: Nashville, TN
i imagine you both were satisfied with the hotcam though?
so i should at least change the timing chain while i'm there, leave the rods alone if they are ok...i plan on doin heads later.....just wanted to go ahead and get the cam in while i have a chance...thanks!
anyone else?
so i should at least change the timing chain while i'm there, leave the rods alone if they are ok...i plan on doin heads later.....just wanted to go ahead and get the cam in while i have a chance...thanks!
anyone else?
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I'm not using the Hotcam but a buddy of mine is. He was real happy with it. With LT's and stock heads, he dynoed 370+/355+ and trapping near 110 so it's a proven performer cam. I'd do the chain, personally, at a very minimum. It will put a smile on you face, I'm certain!
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When you order the hotcam kit you MUST order new valve stem seals in order to use the shims (seats) that come with the kit. They shims are slightly thicker than the stock ones.
You have to remove the springs, then remove the valve seals, then remove the old shims. Install the new shims, new valve seals, then springs. I'm only mentioning this because I thought I had everything I needed for the install, and had to wait for seals to come in once I saw I could not change the shims without them.
Also, purchase a few extra keepers because you will probably lose a few! I kept my stock timing chain, pushrods, retainers, etc... If you want to change your chain, then the oil pump must come out, which means dropping the oil pan, fighting with the little bolt that goes into the pickup tube, and dealing with the popular O-ring issues... But if you have higher milage, then maybe it is worth it.
Anyway, the cam performs great, and the lope is wonderful! Check out my sound/video clip of it:
http://www.tatommy.com/Video%20Clips.htm
Have fun!
Tommy
PS READ READ READ before ripping your engine open, there are lots of great install pages for LS1 cam/spring swaps.
You have to remove the springs, then remove the valve seals, then remove the old shims. Install the new shims, new valve seals, then springs. I'm only mentioning this because I thought I had everything I needed for the install, and had to wait for seals to come in once I saw I could not change the shims without them.
Also, purchase a few extra keepers because you will probably lose a few! I kept my stock timing chain, pushrods, retainers, etc... If you want to change your chain, then the oil pump must come out, which means dropping the oil pan, fighting with the little bolt that goes into the pickup tube, and dealing with the popular O-ring issues... But if you have higher milage, then maybe it is worth it.
Anyway, the cam performs great, and the lope is wonderful! Check out my sound/video clip of it:
http://www.tatommy.com/Video%20Clips.htm
Have fun!
Tommy
PS READ READ READ before ripping your engine open, there are lots of great install pages for LS1 cam/spring swaps.
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From: Nashville, TN
yea i know, i am not the one installing it, i never knew to change the chain, that the oil pump had to come out. that seems like a MAJOR PITA......i think i've already been to your website, one of the major reasons i'm gettin the cam!
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Thanks. The drivability is not an issue at all, unless you are stuck in heavy stop and go traffic. At that point it becomes how much clutching you mind... You can't creep along a 3mph in 1st gear. The car will start to buck. But other than that it is just fine. The car does not shake much at all, but definitely more than stock. Anyway, I did the install myslef (never did one before) over the course of three evenings after work. Hardest part is the friggin' springs under the cowl. Very hard to see what the hell you are doing! It was well worth it.
Good luck.
Tommy
Good luck.
Tommy