ATTN: TEA need cam help
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FormerVendor
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From: Lexington, KY
ATTN: TEA need cam help I currently have your stage II heads on my car decked .030", with 2.02" intake valves. I have a 224/224 563/563 114LSA as of now. I want to go bigger. As a mean and aggressive as possible. How big of a cam? Specs please.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2003
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If you want to go as mean and agressive as possible you want a solid roller 
There is some company around selling the whole conversion kit plus a cam of your choice for $1700, but I'm not sure who that is and I bet you can probably find it cheaper.
Here is a list of cams (with descriptions of thier attributes) in both hyd and roller:
http://www.futralmotorsports.com/engine.htm
And I'll say it before anyone else does:
An increase of about 10 degrees duration @ .05 on these motors will only show a small increase on top end.
Somewhere on the board someone posted a comparison of 3 cams, with the 224/224 being the smallest and the other two being progressively larger. The power curves are identical until about 6000 RPM or so, then the three deviate a little.
Honestly, you'd probably do better to get more power elsewhere, but I probably shouldn't be saying that since you live by me and I just sent you a PM asking to buy your cam!
There is some company around selling the whole conversion kit plus a cam of your choice for $1700, but I'm not sure who that is and I bet you can probably find it cheaper.
Here is a list of cams (with descriptions of thier attributes) in both hyd and roller:
http://www.futralmotorsports.com/engine.htm
And I'll say it before anyone else does:
An increase of about 10 degrees duration @ .05 on these motors will only show a small increase on top end.
Somewhere on the board someone posted a comparison of 3 cams, with the 224/224 being the smallest and the other two being progressively larger. The power curves are identical until about 6000 RPM or so, then the three deviate a little.
Honestly, you'd probably do better to get more power elsewhere, but I probably shouldn't be saying that since you live by me and I just sent you a PM asking to buy your cam!
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 167
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From: Fair Oaks, CA
You have -4 degrees of overlap at .050 in the cam you have now. To clear the stock pistons with .030 milled heads, I'd say don't go over 6-7 degrees of overlap at .050. That's an increase of 10-11 degrees which would give roughly 20RWTQ pretty easily with the right cam.
Those heads like reverse-splits.
A cam like the TR230/224 111LSA would work pretty well overall as it has 5 degrees of overlap at .050 and the valve events are not bad at all, but if you want more out of the combo you'll most likely have to go custom.
Those heads like reverse-splits.
A cam like the TR230/224 111LSA would work pretty well overall as it has 5 degrees of overlap at .050 and the valve events are not bad at all, but if you want more out of the combo you'll most likely have to go custom.
With .030 off the deck, you could SAFELY go to a ~230ish duration cam, but no bigger. ICL and lift is also going to play a role.
The TR230 or MTI X1 are both great cams, and will fit with .030 off. They should both be worth an easy 10-15 rwhp up top, and 15-20 TQ.
josh
The TR230 or MTI X1 are both great cams, and will fit with .030 off. They should both be worth an easy 10-15 rwhp up top, and 15-20 TQ.
josh
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Originally Posted by dragonZ28
I currently have your stage II heads on my car decked .030", with 2.02" intake valves. I have a 224/224 563/563 114LSA as of now. I want to go bigger. As a mean and aggressive as possible. How big of a cam? Specs please.
My TEA 5.3 stage 2's had .075 P to V clearance with my 224 XE-R cam. My head heads have ~.020 to .030 off of them. This is with the cam degreed at ~2 degrees advance. This was checked with a dial not with clay.
Each degree of advance costs ~.007 of P to V clearance. Might want to check with a sponsor or maybe someone else knows the specific number. In other words if you install straight up you might be able to gain a little depending ont he exhaust P to V.
FWIW - Getting an LSX intake might be easier and get you the same or even more power than a slight increase in cam size...just my .02
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I have done at least one install where stock LS1 heads(casting 241's) were milled .040 and the cam was a 224/228 .581/.581 and the pistons were not flycut and we had no problems. Probably cutting it close though.
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 167
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From: Fair Oaks, CA
Like Black Bird T/A said, it depends on where the cam is installed.
The TR224/224 114LSA 110ICL will open the intake at 2 BTDC & the Exhaust closes at 6 BTDC.
The TR230/224 111LSA 111ICL will open the intake at 4 BTDC & close the exhaust at 1 ATDC. A much larger cam, yet P2V is only lessened by ~.010-.015 on the intake side & the exhaust should still clear without problems.
Install this cam 4 degrees advanced & the intake valve will not clear the pistons.
I'd look for a cam that opens the intake no sooner then 4-5 BTDC & closes the exhaust no later then 2-3 ATDC. And I'd DEFINATELY check piston to valve clearance. (using the 'drop valve' method, not clay)
What also gets in the way sometimes is the amount of carbon buildup on the pistons....this can have a drastic impact on piston to valve clearance. You may want to do a good top-end cleaning before installing the cam. I've run into one case where carbon buildup gave *false* piston to valve clearance specs. This motor had thousands of miles of use with oil getting sucked through the intake.
The TR224/224 114LSA 110ICL will open the intake at 2 BTDC & the Exhaust closes at 6 BTDC.
The TR230/224 111LSA 111ICL will open the intake at 4 BTDC & close the exhaust at 1 ATDC. A much larger cam, yet P2V is only lessened by ~.010-.015 on the intake side & the exhaust should still clear without problems.
Install this cam 4 degrees advanced & the intake valve will not clear the pistons.
I'd look for a cam that opens the intake no sooner then 4-5 BTDC & closes the exhaust no later then 2-3 ATDC. And I'd DEFINATELY check piston to valve clearance. (using the 'drop valve' method, not clay)
What also gets in the way sometimes is the amount of carbon buildup on the pistons....this can have a drastic impact on piston to valve clearance. You may want to do a good top-end cleaning before installing the cam. I've run into one case where carbon buildup gave *false* piston to valve clearance specs. This motor had thousands of miles of use with oil getting sucked through the intake.