do i have to degree my cam?
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putting on a set of prc 5.3, 2.5's and ms3 cam and was wondering if i have to degree the cam before i take it to the dyno. also what pushrod length do i need i have a 01z with stock bottom end and i think the ls7 lifter are the ones i need also. hopefully i can degree the cam with the engine in the car cus its not coming out. is there a thread about degreeing cams?
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Im going to go with the same head and all i have 235 240 cam in my car with stock head with the Chromemoly Hardened Pushrods i belive 7.40 was the leaght of them with dualspring i put it all in myself i went ls1howto.com and went off of there then drove it to the shop and hade it tune but im going to go put it on the dyno for better tuning but i dont think you have to degree the cam at all i just put mine all in
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Degree the cam. check your PV clearance, and Deff. measure your pushrod lenghts. That way if you have problems while on the dyno (low power etc) you will know it's not from something that should have been done during the install.
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I would definitely recommend to degree the cam in. It's always a good idea to degree any cam in no matter how big it is! Also, an adjustable pushrod length checker is a good idea to confirm that the correct pushrod length is being used. It should be right at 7.400" but it's a good idea to double check it!
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Basically after the cam is degreed you can check piston to valve clearance. What it involves is either putting a dial indicator on the valve retainer or using clay method. You are measuring the clearance within 25 degrees TDC on both sides - that is when you will have the tightest clearance. Mine actually turned out to be a problem only on the intake side about 11 degrees ATDC. You need a solid lifter to check to get an accurate number and not compress the lifter. There is a lot of info on these two methods if you search!
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there got 2b 100's of cars out there with my set up. if I'm going 2spend all this $$ on specialty tools I wouldof been better off takin it some where to get done. so is there anyone with my set up that can give me that info
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All those $$$ specialty tools are gonna cost you under a $100. How much is a rebuild gonna cost you if you kiss a valve? The whole deal is pretty easy to do and will give you some quality beer drinking time in the garage.
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Not every setup will be the same even if it is the same heads/cam. Cam manufacturers don't always get the specs right on and there's also the possibility to be a few degrees off once the cam is installed. Adjustable PR's are cheap so that's pretty easy and if you want to degree the cam it's a little over $100 for the kit. I'll be degreeing my cam when I install it later this month along with measuring for PR length and then checking PTV clearance as well. I will be flycutting on the intake side anyways but want to know exactly what the PTV is before buttoning everything up. It's really just cheap insurance now and the peace of mind of not having to worry about a piston kissing a valve. I would rather spend the money now than have to put in a new motor later in case my setup isn't optimal.
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what kind of numbers can I expect from this after a dyno tune? I have a 01 z28 with m6 & I've got slp forced cold air induction, k&n filter, slp lid, smooth bellow, bbk 85mm tb, long tubes, y pipe, loudmouth exhaust, suspension work spec stage3+ clutch, chrome molly flywheel, & 150 shot I have to hook up along with the prc 5.3L 2.5 heads & ms3 cam
Last edited by rice8er; 06-03-2009 at 11:29 AM.
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ohh & if any of u have a ms3 cam with a 113 lsa hit me up, I need one still & a purge system for the juice. also need ls7 lifters, and while I'm at it a ls2 timing chain