Any data on the Darton MID block setups?
#82
Originally Posted by JOHN LAWSON
I have a Cartek built Darton sleve MID 427 engine. The thing dynoed at 530 rwhp in a C5 A4 coupe with a 4000 stall. I hold the ET record for N/A C5 at 10.40 @ 130 mph. I have ran the engine all this past summer with no issues at all. I love it and would recomend that process to any one. Thanks John.
#83
LS1TECH Sponsor
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by CANNIBAL
Steve, I'm 99% I'll be ordering this setup soon. Is there a preference of using the LS1 or LS6 block?
A seasoned (high mileage) block is best as it will have been stress relieved in service.
Steve Demirjian
Race Engine Development
#85
Originally Posted by CANNIBAL
John, what is your camshaft?
#86
Originally Posted by Steve - Race Eng
I mentioned once before on this site that there was never a problem with o'rings. We increased the number of o'rings for insurance as we decreased the diameter of the ring. The thinner rings allow larger bore size, up to 4.160" with the LS1.
#88
Originally Posted by JS
This is why u need to find a COMPITENT builder...
I would let Cartek,Westin Machine or Steve build one of these for me.
Sorry thats the only place I'd go...
Remember u get what u pay for and this is $$$.
I would let Cartek,Westin Machine or Steve build one of these for me.
Sorry thats the only place I'd go...
Remember u get what u pay for and this is $$$.
I was asking Steve because he co-invented the sleeves and would know the exact measurements at different bore sizes.
I never said I was gonna build it myself. I would only let a COMPETENT builder assemble a motor of this expense.
I ain't no fool
#89
Adkoonerstrator
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Deep in the seedy underworld of Koonerville
Posts: 21,420
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by CANNIBAL
Steve, with a 4.160" bore, what would the thickness of the sleeves be? Would you feel safe running that bore size on the MID on a daily driven, naturally aspirated car?
(4.4" - 4.160")/2 = .120"
Steve will have to answer if that is safe for a daily driver. I'd think so, you might not want to run a 300shot on it or something like that though.
#90
Originally Posted by XLR8NSS
I don't have a full answer for you but, considering the bore spacing on a LS1 is 4.4" the maximum thickness for a cylinder wall with a bore of 4.160" would be.
(4.4" - 4.160")/2 = .120"
Steve will have to answer if that is safe for a daily driver. I'd think so you might not want to run a 300shot on it or something like that though.
(4.4" - 4.160")/2 = .120"
Steve will have to answer if that is safe for a daily driver. I'd think so you might not want to run a 300shot on it or something like that though.
#93
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Originally Posted by CANNIBAL
I was wondering the same, Black Bird. Are these available in the aftermarket venue anywhere? It'd be real easy to just plug the car into the wall too a small heater w/thermostat in it.
#96
LS1TECH Sponsor
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by 2001CamaroGuy
same question.......
Keep in mind that 4.160" is pretty near the limit on bore size. This because of the o'ring groove depth. You would not be leaving anything for future rebuild if you needed to go larger for some reason. I would run it at 4.150" max. (~433 inches with 4" arm) if it were mine.
Steve Demirjian
Race Engine Development
#97
LS1TECH Sponsor
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by 99 Black Bird T/A
On the cold thing...I understand it might not be an issue.
Would a block heater insure it wouldn't be an issue?
Thanks
Would a block heater insure it wouldn't be an issue?
Thanks
Steve Demirjian
Race Engine Development
#98
LS1TECH Sponsor
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by XLR8NSS
I don't have a full answer for you but, considering the bore spacing on a LS1 is 4.4" the maximum thickness for a cylinder wall with a bore of 4.160" would be.
(4.4" - 4.160")/2 = .120"
Steve will have to answer if that is safe for a daily driver. I'd think so, you might not want to run a 300shot on it or something like that though.
(4.4" - 4.160")/2 = .120"
Steve will have to answer if that is safe for a daily driver. I'd think so, you might not want to run a 300shot on it or something like that though.
The Honda B series MID sleeves are .220" wall at 84mm bore (3mm over stock). They hold up no problem at 35+ pounds of boost with nitrous thrown in. Anywhere from 800 - 1,000 HP out of four cylinders. So a 300 shot won't hurt the sleeves at 4.150" or 4.160" if the rest of the engine is up to it.
I also want to point out that the siamesed sleeves is one of the main reasons the tolerance dimension of +- one half of one thousandth of an inch must be held during machining on bore location. Note that some shops are doing the machine work on CNC machines with no flood coolant capability. There is no way to hold tolerance without coolant. The block will grow a considerable amount with each hole machined. I calculated a five inch section of block will grow .001" per twelve degrees temperature change. With the block being about 22" and change long you can multiply the length change by four (.004") per twelve degree change in block temperature. Don't forget that the bore size in the aluminum will change as well. The temperature change is both from machining friction as well as room temperture change during the day. If the shop is twenty degrees warmer in the afternoon than in the morning guess what. I'll let you do the math.
Flood coolant, A/C and machining the entire block in one session are the answers to quality work when it comes to installing these kits. You never want to leave the block sit overnight and start again the next day.
Steve Demirjian
Race Engine Development
#100
Originally Posted by CANNIBAL
Steve, thanks again for all the info. Any word on the Cometic head gaskets yet? I'm gonna have you personally setup my block