CamaroSS_2002

iTrader: (4)

6600rpm shifts here and will be adding a procharger to the mix in the future or going big cubes. I want a rocker setup that won't take a **** on me in the process.

Phil99vette

iTrader: (11)

LOL, no I sent them back for a refund which I have not recieved.
Phillip

Phil99vette

iTrader: (11)

1) You need pushrods that are .200 - .250 shorter due to a shorter cup height.
2) The holes need to be elongated to ensure the pushrods don't rub the cylinder heads by .090 - .150
Phillip

CamaroSS_2002

iTrader: (4)

They need to have a disclaimer or something

Comp Cams

What a joke. I hope I can sell mine cause there is no way in hell I can use them now and I haven't even recieved the damn things yet.

CamaroSS_2002

iTrader: (4)

Woohoo the place I bought the rocker arms from didn't get their shipment and comp told them that they are on backorder till late december. I am getting a refund on the purchase price and shipping

Way to go Comp Cams!

2000RATA

I just built this motor. I am running a fairly large cam. I'm waiting on a driveshaft right now so I haven't driven it much. Around 80 miles with the 10 bolt rearend. I changed to a 12 bolt and need a driveshaft. But in those 80 miles I have found that my fairly large cam does not start pulling good and strong until 5500 RPM. I expected this and that's why the shaft rocker system was selected. That and the fairly large diameter valve springs.

Phil: Sounds like they will finally make things right with you.

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

Jesel told me that only the passenger side cover needs some work where the oil fill baffle is located to install their shaft mounts. I have the Comp Pro Mags installed and they're very good quality at $499. The idea of aluminum rockers just doesn't sit well with me. Aluminum is too brittle for me. I'd rather steel even if it weighs more because of the higher spring required when you switch to a higher ratio rocker. Shaft mount is the way to go if you can afford it.

Beavis5.3

Another thing to consider when choosing between shaft mount rockers and stud mounts is how much spring pressure your running.

Most everyone is using a performance dual spring for LS-1 running in the mid to high 300's for open pressure. In this set-up, you can run an aluminum roller rocker and everything should be fine if the valve train is set up properly.

Where you want the shaft mounts is when you're running high spring loads so you can spread that pressure out over more surface area, and not pull studs out of the heads, an even bigger concern since all Ls-1 heads are aluminum.

As for aluminum being too brittle, that's hogwash. A good (repeat: GOOD) aluminum rocker arm will not be too brittle for an engine. If aluminum was too brittle for high performance engines, then companies like Crane, Jesel, Comp, T&D, etc., wouldn't use this alloy for their rockers. When a hard core prostock NHRA engine uses Jesel aluminum rockers arms against 1000+ spring loads, that pretty much means it will take the punishment of a street engine.

Using steel rocker arms just sucks horsepower form the engine, because you have a heavier mass to move using the energy of the motor. Then, you have to have a beefier spring to control that extra steel mass so the valve train doesn't run out of control. That's why hi-po engines use titanium valve spring retainers, to reduce valve train mass to make more horsepower. Same thing applies to rocker arms, lifters, pushrods, and valves.

Vents

iTrader: (9)

the only perpose of using these Sebastian, would be if you were going solid roller. otherwise, it's an awful big chunk of change to run those pretty red rockers where no-one can even see them.