Mod advise
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From: Gardnerville, NV.
Mod advise I've got an 02 SS M6 with Bilstein ultra suspension, SLP LT headers 345hp airlid and an SLP STB. I'm looking at spending around $3,000 on additional mods. Here's what I'm thinking.
Cam LS1speed 224/224 .582/.582 112LSA
Springs retainers pushrods to match
3.73:1 Rear end gears
Carbon Fiber driveshaft (maybe)
Underdrive pulleys
ORPS
Preditor
Heavy Duty oil pump
160 F Tstat
Bolt on SFCs
Please advise me if I'm going the right way or making any mistakes. I live in a rural area and do not have smog certs to worry about. My driving is more open road with the occaisianal SCCA Solo II event. I'm not really intersted in the 1320 although I might give it a try just to see what the car wil do when this is all done.
TIA
Cam LS1speed 224/224 .582/.582 112LSA
Springs retainers pushrods to match
3.73:1 Rear end gears
Carbon Fiber driveshaft (maybe)
Underdrive pulleys
ORPS
Preditor
Heavy Duty oil pump
160 F Tstat
Bolt on SFCs
Please advise me if I'm going the right way or making any mistakes. I live in a rural area and do not have smog certs to worry about. My driving is more open road with the occaisianal SCCA Solo II event. I'm not really intersted in the 1320 although I might give it a try just to see what the car wil do when this is all done.
TIA
sounds like your on the right track to me, should make some good power when its done. your timing chain is more then likely still fine but since your doing an oil pump and cam swap a new timing chain would be minimal work to install.
are you gonna be doing the installs yourself or have a shop do them?
are you gonna be doing the installs yourself or have a shop do them?
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Originally Posted by jrp
sounds like your on the right track to me, should make some good power when its done. your timing chain is more then likely still fine but since your doing an oil pump and cam swap a new timing chain would be minimal work to install.
are you gonna be doing the installs yourself or have a shop do them?
are you gonna be doing the installs yourself or have a shop do them?
I see a lot of discussion on the merits of 3.73s vs 4.10s. I'm thinking 3.73s since on not quarter miling and am looking for all around road racing/street performance...any thoughts on that?
PATRIOT 5.3 heads
TSP 231/237 cam
keep stock pushrods, or get new hardened ones
mail order tune or LS1Edit
cutout
SFC and LCA relocation brackets
Torque arm
TOTAL about $2800 and about 420RWHP
TSP 231/237 cam
keep stock pushrods, or get new hardened ones
mail order tune or LS1Edit
cutout
SFC and LCA relocation brackets
Torque arm
TOTAL about $2800 and about 420RWHP
Originally Posted by NEVR2ND
PATRIOT 5.3 heads
TSP 231/237 cam
keep stock pushrods, or get new hardened ones
mail order tune or LS1Edit
cutout
SFC and LCA relocation brackets
Torque arm
TOTAL about $2800 and about 420RWHP
TSP 231/237 cam
keep stock pushrods, or get new hardened ones
mail order tune or LS1Edit
cutout
SFC and LCA relocation brackets
Torque arm
TOTAL about $2800 and about 420RWHP
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From: Gardnerville, NV.
Originally Posted by CANNIBAL
Do NOT use stock material pushrods in a H/C setup. Use hardened p-rods. Dont' skimp on those, ThunderRacing has them for $104.95 in the lengths you need. Don't use mail order tuning either, it's a waste of $$.
Last edited by ssheets; Nov 9, 2003 at 09:27 PM.
Originally Posted by ssheets
Yeah, with a high lift cam stronger pushrods are required. If you look at my originail post it is a cam swap which includes springs, pushrods and titaniaum retainers. I was also considering fully adjustable roller roackers since the cam I'm spec'ing is 0.581 lift...these may or nay bit be required?
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I'd skip the carbon fiber driveshaft at this point and spend that $750 on something else. Sometimes a decent set of heads can be picked up for ~$1200 or so. Like was that's about 1/2 of what a new set of TEA 1.5 set of heads would cost. You can pick up cores cheap and MTI can do their Stage 2E porting for $1599
Might also be worth getting a Pat package with the $750 from the driveshaft and the cost of the springs retainers pushrods and cam, you'd almost have enough to for heads and cam.
Might also be worth getting a Pat package with the $750 from the driveshaft and the cost of the springs retainers pushrods and cam, you'd almost have enough to for heads and cam.
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I have that came got it from speed inc. also I love it on of the best mods I've done. I would also skimp on the driveshaft it looks cool but is definately not worth $750.
I also do all my own work and installed my cam myself and many friends cams. It's pretty easy just get a write up from the internet that tells you step by step how to do it. Good Luck Jessie
I also do all my own work and installed my cam myself and many friends cams. It's pretty easy just get a write up from the internet that tells you step by step how to do it. Good Luck Jessie
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Originally Posted by JESSIE
I have that came got it from speed inc. also I love it on of the best mods I've done. I would also skimp on the driveshaft it looks cool but is definately not worth $750.
I also do all my own work and installed my cam myself and many friends cams. It's pretty easy just get a write up from the internet that tells you step by step how to do it. Good Luck Jessie
I also do all my own work and installed my cam myself and many friends cams. It's pretty easy just get a write up from the internet that tells you step by step how to do it. Good Luck Jessie
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From: Gardnerville, NV.
Originally Posted by BigBlackZ28
Like www.ls1howto.com.
Agree, the drive shaft would be the last on the list to come to fruition. The roller rockers would be for fine tuning, not raw power. I've heard that high lift cams can be a beeeatch to dial in without adjustable rockers...these would be nice if the budget supports them, but not necessary.My biggest question is the 3.73s vs the 4.10s ...or for that matter the stock 3.42s?????
Originally Posted by ssheets
Agree, the drive shaft would be the last on the list to come to fruition. The roller rockers would be for fine tuning, not raw power. I've heard that high lift cams can be a beeeatch to dial in without adjustable rockers...these would be nice if the budget supports them, but not necessary.My biggest question is the 3.73s vs the 4.10s ...or for that matter the stock 3.42s?????
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Originally Posted by jrp
for road racing either one will be fine, 3.73's or 4.10's. honestly id get the gears last after you've dyno'd the car and you can see where your powerband is. that'll be the best bet to determine which gear is best for you. also run the track with the 3.42's to see how those do to before swapping them out.
I think for a combo of road racing and highway driving the 3.73s will hit the sweet spot
Originally Posted by ssheets
Good advice, but I'm looking at doing the work during the winter months. I want to do all the nods in the next 2-3 months and spend the summer months...testing
I think for a combo of road racing and highway driving the 3.73s will hit the sweet spot
I think for a combo of road racing and highway driving the 3.73s will hit the sweet spot