Anyone use these rod bolts?
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I'm rebuilding an LS1 a 98 LS1 to make it even worse with the weak rod bolts, planning on changing the rod bolts but would not like to pay $100+ for Katech's nor get ARP's due to the weight difference. I'm pretty **** on things especially when I'm getting paid to do it for someone else, if there's a vibration or something ***** up im to blame.
Anyone use these rod bolts??
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevy...5%7C240%3A1318
Please don't tell me just buy ARP's, worst came to worse I'm getting the Katech's but would like some comments on these. Anyone use them? These also seem to have the ferrule, which my rods dont have so could I use them anyway?
Thanks
Anyone use these rod bolts??
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevy...5%7C240%3A1318
Please don't tell me just buy ARP's, worst came to worse I'm getting the Katech's but would like some comments on these. Anyone use them? These also seem to have the ferrule, which my rods dont have so could I use them anyway?
Thanks
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The only way to get the **** quality you seek, is to buy the Katechs. Are they expensive...yes, but worth every penny. Of all the places to save money, why pick your bottom end?
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I've had experience with SPS, and I know they make good stuff...if those are actually SPS fasteners (and if my new rods hadn't come with ARP's in them)...I'd probably give them a try.
The guy is dissing ARP a bit in his auction and thats a bit uncalled for...very strict inspection and quality control brings prices of parts up sometimes...usually the smaller companies making good parts at lower cost are also not able to inspect as often or as well...doesn't necessarilly mean it's an inferior product...but there's less of a guarantee that it's a good product...but thats actually not the case with SPS's...they're a very reputable company.
The guy is dissing ARP a bit in his auction and thats a bit uncalled for...very strict inspection and quality control brings prices of parts up sometimes...usually the smaller companies making good parts at lower cost are also not able to inspect as often or as well...doesn't necessarilly mean it's an inferior product...but there's less of a guarantee that it's a good product...but thats actually not the case with SPS's...they're a very reputable company.
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#9
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rod bolts are one the last places i would short change! call sdpc and see how much gm bolts are, they also have arp bolts for $69.00 http://www.sdpc2000.com/product/ARP1...sRodBolts.aspx
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I'm rebuilding an LS1 a 98 LS1 to make it even worse with the weak rod bolts, planning on changing the rod bolts but would not like to pay $100+ for Katech's nor get ARP's due to the weight difference. I'm pretty **** on things especially when I'm getting paid to do it for someone else, if there's a vibration or something ***** up im to blame.
Anyone use these rod bolts??
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevy...5%7C240%3A1318
Please don't tell me just buy ARP's, worst came to worse I'm getting the Katech's but would like some comments on these. Anyone use them? These also seem to have the ferrule, which my rods dont have so could I use them anyway?
Thanks
Anyone use these rod bolts??
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevy...5%7C240%3A1318
Please don't tell me just buy ARP's, worst came to worse I'm getting the Katech's but would like some comments on these. Anyone use them? These also seem to have the ferrule, which my rods dont have so could I use them anyway?
Thanks
Katech bolts are $200 and made from H11 alloy steel. 200,000 psi yield strength.
ARP 8740 are $70ish and made from tempered chrome moly. 180,000 psi yield strength.
ARP 2000 are $90ish and made from tempered chrome moly with different processing. Up to 220,000 psi yield strength.
Too many people do "overkill" all to often. You will tear a factory rod in two before you break or stretch a 8740 rod bolt with anything under 800hp and only spinning 7400 rpms.
If you're concerned about the weight difference, before you do anything have all your stock stuff weighed first. You'll find as much as 30 grams difference overall.
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SRS makes quality fasteners among other things. The ebay ad says SRS but there is no proof, no labeling, no nothing. My advice would be to stay away from them. The price is great and very appealing, almost too good to be true.
Katech bolts are $200 and made from H11 alloy steel. 200,000 psi yield strength.
ARP 8740 are $70ish and made from tempered chrome moly. 180,000 psi yield strength.
ARP 2000 are $90ish and made from tempered chrome moly with different processing. Up to 220,000 psi yield strength.
Too many people do "overkill" all to often. You will tear a factory rod in two before you break or stretch a 8740 rod bolt with anything under 800hp and only spinning 7400 rpms.
If you're concerned about the weight difference, before you do anything have all your stock stuff weighed first. You'll find as much as 30 grams difference overall.
Katech bolts are $200 and made from H11 alloy steel. 200,000 psi yield strength.
ARP 8740 are $70ish and made from tempered chrome moly. 180,000 psi yield strength.
ARP 2000 are $90ish and made from tempered chrome moly with different processing. Up to 220,000 psi yield strength.
Too many people do "overkill" all to often. You will tear a factory rod in two before you break or stretch a 8740 rod bolt with anything under 800hp and only spinning 7400 rpms.
If you're concerned about the weight difference, before you do anything have all your stock stuff weighed first. You'll find as much as 30 grams difference overall.
I know some of the SPS rod bolts are made for nascar engines so they're not a "shady" name. But if it was a good upgrade I would "assume" more people would have used them.
Where do I get the Katech's and ARP's from?
Sucks, I used to work at Manley and we had boxes and boxes of the ARP 2000's for the Ford GT rods hah
But anyway where do I get the Katech's and ARP's from for the cheapest?
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The ARP's you can get from almost any sponser. Katechs come from Katech (surprise) but have been on backorder the two times I tried to order them. Katechs are smaller and stock sized (almost) and if I were to simply swap them out on a stock bottom that is the only way I would go but on a rebuild there is no reason not to go ARP.
#14
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I'm rebuilding an LS1 a 98 LS1 to make it even worse with the weak rod bolts, planning on changing the rod bolts but would not like to pay $100+ for Katech's nor get ARP's due to the weight difference. I'm pretty **** on things especially when I'm getting paid to do it for someone else, if there's a vibration or something ***** up im to blame.
Anyone use these rod bolts??
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevy...5%7C240%3A1318
Please don't tell me just buy ARP's, worst came to worse I'm getting the Katech's but would like some comments on these. Anyone use them? These also seem to have the ferrule, which my rods dont have so could I use them anyway?
Thanks
Anyone use these rod bolts??
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevy...5%7C240%3A1318
Please don't tell me just buy ARP's, worst came to worse I'm getting the Katech's but would like some comments on these. Anyone use them? These also seem to have the ferrule, which my rods dont have so could I use them anyway?
Thanks
If your gonna balance the motor any way then just get the ARP's and save your money. Make sure you have the rods checked for bore distortion though after they are installed.
I already had mine balanced and assembled. I later decide to upgrade the rod bolts. So rather then shell out to rebalance and tear everything apart I Purchased the Katechs. They are the closest to a stock rod bolt weight. I am very Picky and even though I followed the torque and stretch procedure on the factory rod bolts, I wasn't satisfied. I always like to follow up with a tourqe wrench to see if they all have the same tension on them. I found one rod bolt that would not take a torque reading that was the same as the others. This scared the crap out of me and I attempted to redo the procedure and double check it. I decide not to risk it. Mostlikely I would say that one bolt had an issue. All the new Katech bolts went in with out any issues.
Katech is a sponser on this site. They have a little banner to the right side of the screen or here is there site.
http://www.katechengines.com/katech_inc/
If you dont like the price of the ARP's Be prepaired to be really offended when you see there price.... LOL But I still think there worth every penny
LOL there having 10% off this month
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Those SPS bolts are the same as the stock replacement bolts you would get through GM. SPS is the manufacture of the factory rod bolts.
Katech is a sponser on this site. They have a little banner to the right side of the screen or here is there site.
http://www.katechengines.com/katech_inc/
LOL there having 10% off this month
Katech is a sponser on this site. They have a little banner to the right side of the screen or here is there site.
http://www.katechengines.com/katech_inc/
LOL there having 10% off this month
Thanks for the link, although theyre on backorder
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So buying the SPS bolts would be the same as if I bought a new set from the stealership you're saying? Do you have any proof that SPS made the stock GM rod bolts? Could I even use them if my rods dont have the ferrules?
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Thanks for the link, although theyre on backorder
I just don't know about spending 200 on bolts, if it was MY motor for my car I would but its not my car. and being like you I would not want to use the ARP's withouth being rebalanced and resized.
So buying the SPS bolts would be the same as if I bought a new set from the stealership you're saying? Do you have any proof that SPS made the stock GM rod bolts? Could I even use them if my rods dont have the ferrules?
![Punch](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_punch.gif)
So buying the SPS bolts would be the same as if I bought a new set from the stealership you're saying? Do you have any proof that SPS made the stock GM rod bolts? Could I even use them if my rods dont have the ferrules?
I Willl be back around 8pm PST
Last edited by 1FastBrick; 06-12-2009 at 11:06 PM.
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Ok Here is the pictures I promissed. The Bolt with the penny on the bottom is a factory rod bolt that I removed from my rods. The one next to it is the SPS rod bolt from seller you refferd to in the auction. BTW his name is Jay
The head on the SPS bolt is a little bit taller than the factory one. Thats about it... I believe the extra little thread on there has something to do with allowing them to work in the early rods Like what you have... Not 100% sure though as I have no early ones to compare to...
BTW I could not find the info about factory rod bolts being produced by SPS so untill I do, I will retract my previous statement about such Information.
The head on the SPS bolt is a little bit taller than the factory one. Thats about it... I believe the extra little thread on there has something to do with allowing them to work in the early rods Like what you have... Not 100% sure though as I have no early ones to compare to...
BTW I could not find the info about factory rod bolts being produced by SPS so untill I do, I will retract my previous statement about such Information.
Last edited by 1FastBrick; 06-12-2009 at 11:02 PM.
#20
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Some Helpfull Stock Rod bolt Info.
Revised Rod Bolt Tightening Procedure- http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Arti...rod_bolts.aspx
Factory Rod Bolt Identification- http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Arti...u_engines.aspx
Revised Rod Bolt Tightening Procedure- http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Arti...rod_bolts.aspx
Factory Rod Bolt Identification- http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Arti...u_engines.aspx