MTI Stage 2 LS6 & X1 clearance problems! Pro's inside please!
11-17-2003, 11:10 AM
#21
John,
Thanks for the input but I have absolutely no idea how to do the clay thing. And I really have NO resources or tools to do any fly cutting of the pistons.
Right now the idea is to make one pass on this motor in May. after that rip it out and go big bore and do it the right way from the start.
Thanks for the input but I have absolutely no idea how to do the clay thing. And I really have NO resources or tools to do any fly cutting of the pistons.
Right now the idea is to make one pass on this motor in May. after that rip it out and go big bore and do it the right way from the start.
11-17-2003, 11:30 AM
#22
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Originally Posted by NataSS Inc
John,
Thanks for the input but I have absolutely no idea how to do the clay thing. And I really have NO resources or tools to do any fly cutting of the pistons.
Right now the idea is to make one pass on this motor in May. after that rip it out and go big bore and do it the right way from the start.
Thanks for the input but I have absolutely no idea how to do the clay thing. And I really have NO resources or tools to do any fly cutting of the pistons.
Right now the idea is to make one pass on this motor in May. after that rip it out and go big bore and do it the right way from the start.
11-17-2003, 02:00 PM
#25
NataSS,
You have a couple of options here, the fly cutting tool from Isky is the best one if you don't want to change your setup. If you were not in Wa i'd probably roll over to your house and help you out with this one.
The Isky tool is very simple and if you are very **** and clean the hole deal will take you some time but will work out awesome.
A shorter pushrod will not cure this problem. It's just going to screw up your valve train geometry, DO NOT DO THIS!
Checking P to V with a dial indicator is a good way to go, but you need to know where the piston is going to be closest to the valve to do that. With some math you can do it, but the clay is a much easier way for the average Joe to do this.
Since the X1 is a 230 duration cam, with a low ICL (around 108) you are going to have a P/V clearance problem. It's just barely better as far as clearance goes compared to the G5X2 cam.
Checking P to V on any motor is a very good idea when things are this close. I've had smaller cams become a much bigger problem and needed the motor dissasmbled because the custom forged pistons were not made with enough valve relief even thought the company was specifically told how deep to cut the reliefs. Guess what they were not that deep.
Bret
You have a couple of options here, the fly cutting tool from Isky is the best one if you don't want to change your setup. If you were not in Wa i'd probably roll over to your house and help you out with this one.
The Isky tool is very simple and if you are very **** and clean the hole deal will take you some time but will work out awesome.
A shorter pushrod will not cure this problem. It's just going to screw up your valve train geometry, DO NOT DO THIS!
Checking P to V with a dial indicator is a good way to go, but you need to know where the piston is going to be closest to the valve to do that. With some math you can do it, but the clay is a much easier way for the average Joe to do this.
Since the X1 is a 230 duration cam, with a low ICL (around 108) you are going to have a P/V clearance problem. It's just barely better as far as clearance goes compared to the G5X2 cam.
Checking P to V on any motor is a very good idea when things are this close. I've had smaller cams become a much bigger problem and needed the motor dissasmbled because the custom forged pistons were not made with enough valve relief even thought the company was specifically told how deep to cut the reliefs. Guess what they were not that deep.
Bret
11-17-2003, 02:03 PM
#26
put #1 at TDC. Put a small piece of clay on the top of your piston. Bolt your head down, not tight but snug with a few bolts. TQ your rockers to 22 ft lbs on that cyl. Pull the head back off. Take a micrometer and measure the indention in the clay. Thats checking PV with clay
I'd be happy to come up and help, however, I am swapped with activities right now and still trying to get my own motor back together so maybe you can lean on Ryan, Ellis or maybe a few of the other LT1 local boys that understand this stuff.
Right now the idea is to make one pass on this motor in May.
If you can't find the help, get a hold of a local shop and just drop the car off to have this done. I'm sure a few of the ZO6 & C5 boys that "don't want to get their hands dirty" could recommend a good local shop.
11-17-2003, 05:11 PM
#30
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At first I figured that it was floating an exausht valve that caused the issue. BUT since the car has a rev limiter that was programmed by MTI wouldnt that keep the valves from floating?
11-17-2003, 07:27 PM
#32
Originally Posted by NataSS Inc
so could this have caused the valves to hit the pistons?
My youngest brother did the same on his SS and bent all the valves in his heads. We filed down the eyelash marks as best as we could and put new heads on. That was 40,000 miles ago and it still runs strong.
