Thicker oil for worn rings?
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From: Maple Grove MN
Thicker oil for worn rings? My rings are going bad in my Camaro. I'm sure this question has been debated many times but would a thicker oil than my regular Redline 10W30 help seal the rings a little better until I get my new motor installed? Even if it doesnt help much could it hurt anything besides a little power loss? I doubt 10W40 would hurt anything at all but what about a 15W50? I just need this engine to hold up until I get the funds to either install my new 6.8L short block or go to forged internals on my current motor. Thanks guys.
Justin
Justin
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From: Hartsdale, NY
yeh, i've used that Ajax method too...it is designed to re-hone the cylynder liners...
I would also try adding a quart or two gear oil to the crankcase....I did this on my wife's Benz ...it works and does not casue any damage...
I would also try adding a quart or two gear oil to the crankcase....I did this on my wife's Benz ...it works and does not casue any damage...
I run Mobil 1 15W50 with a bottle of motor honey......it really help out with my smoking (01 rings) issue. But then again I am in AZ were it WILL NOT get below 40 degrees all winter.
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From: Maple Grove MN
Thanks for the opinions guys. I'm one of those people thats affraid of oil additives. Pouring anything other than oil in my engine scares me. I do have to say I've had nothing but excellent results with that Lucas Trans Stop Slip in my Mustang. I had a broken spring in the trans and it would rev to almost redline before dropping into gear when I would get on it hard. That stuff made it run like new again. 2001CamaroGuy I should be ok since I dont drive my car in the winter. I'll probably use the 15W50 or 20W50 Mobil 1 or Redline.
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Verdad Gallardo TECH Veteran
Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Hartsdale, NY
how do you know it is a ring problem; did you do a compression test?
...how about checking your PVC system,...if you have a lot of mods including LT headers the engine could be sucking in a bunch of crankcase oil into your intake manifold...if yes, get a ls6 valley cover and a oil catch can...
thick oil like STP, motor honey and gear oil are all oil derivatives, and have been succesfully used for years.....
the Ajax trick is used by pouring the dry powder into the intake when the motor is running at high revs ..not sure how you could accomplish this in an LS1, however....
...this is a risky strategy anyway....I would avoid it for fear that it may do more harm than good...
...how about checking your PVC system,...if you have a lot of mods including LT headers the engine could be sucking in a bunch of crankcase oil into your intake manifold...if yes, get a ls6 valley cover and a oil catch can...
thick oil like STP, motor honey and gear oil are all oil derivatives, and have been succesfully used for years.....
the Ajax trick is used by pouring the dry powder into the intake when the motor is running at high revs ..not sure how you could accomplish this in an LS1, however....
...this is a risky strategy anyway....I would avoid it for fear that it may do more harm than good...
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Mississauga, Ontario
Originally Posted by 1slowCamaro
Thanks for the opinions guys. I'm one of those people thats affraid of oil additives. Pouring anything other than oil in my engine scares me. I do have to say I've had nothing but excellent results with that Lucas Trans Stop Slip in my Mustang. I had a broken spring in the trans and it would rev to almost redline before dropping into gear when I would get on it hard. That stuff made it run like new again. 2001CamaroGuy I should be ok since I dont drive my car in the winter. I'll probably use the 15W50 or 20W50 Mobil 1 or Redline.
Why waste your money on expensive synthetic if you're just going to be rebuilding the engine soon anyways? Like I mentioned earlier, just buy a cheap 20w50 oil and go with that.
Thread Starter
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From: Maple Grove MN
Robert I know its a ring problem because Speed Inc told me it was a ring problem. I do use a catch can now but I didnt use to. I was using valve cover breathers when I should have been using a catch can. Before the supercharger I used 150 shot and I'm sure that doesnt do much good for the rings either. All I know is that at high RPMs (5000 - 6200 range) i get a pretty good smoke cloud out the tailpipes.
Patman I have to waste my money on synthetic because I will never run poop oil in my camaro nomatter what. I couldnt imagine running a supercharger without synthetic oil. I dont know when I'll be rebuilding the engine. It may be a couple years. Need to get some crap paid off.
Patman I have to waste my money on synthetic because I will never run poop oil in my camaro nomatter what. I couldnt imagine running a supercharger without synthetic oil. I dont know when I'll be rebuilding the engine. It may be a couple years. Need to get some crap paid off.
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From: Hartsdale, NY
Patman:
Did you trade your old tired LT1 camaro in for a new red C5, ZO6?
..cool car...
...you now need ported heads, a BIG cam, long-tube headers, a free flowing cat back exhaust, LS1Edit tune-up, etc...
Did you trade your old tired LT1 camaro in for a new red C5, ZO6?
..cool car...
...you now need ported heads, a BIG cam, long-tube headers, a free flowing cat back exhaust, LS1Edit tune-up, etc...
TECH Senior Member
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From: Mississauga, Ontario
Originally Posted by robertbartsch
Patman:
Did you trade your old tired LT1 camaro in for a new red C5, ZO6?
Did you trade your old tired LT1 camaro in for a new red C5, ZO6?
Thread Starter
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From: Maple Grove MN
Hey Patman. No, I'm not sure my engine will last a couple more years but I think it will. Its not, by any means, my daily driver. I put maybe 3000 miles on it last year. I just comes out when its time to go pimpin. 
When I do drive it I dont hesitate to put my foot down but I dont beat on it like a jackass and it still hasnt seen a real track. There's this guy that works in my building that has blown up his NA stock LS1 twice in two years. Dont know how he's doing that. Must beat the living **** out of it.
The rest of the time I drive my gay Mustang which I'm slowly making less gay but it still is what it is. A Ford, a pos, daily driver, a winter beater... Here's what I've done to it.
1994 Mustang GT 5.0, HP AODE trans, 2200 stall HD converter, Transgo stage 2 shift kit, ford racing wires, MSD coil, Offroad H pipe, glass packs, BBK cold air intake, ported MAF, Walbro 255, adj FPR, & NX dry 50 - 75 shot. 25RWHP 38RWTQ
When I do drive it I dont hesitate to put my foot down but I dont beat on it like a jackass and it still hasnt seen a real track. There's this guy that works in my building that has blown up his NA stock LS1 twice in two years. Dont know how he's doing that. Must beat the living **** out of it. The rest of the time I drive my gay Mustang which I'm slowly making less gay but it still is what it is. A Ford, a pos, daily driver, a winter beater... Here's what I've done to it.
1994 Mustang GT 5.0, HP AODE trans, 2200 stall HD converter, Transgo stage 2 shift kit, ford racing wires, MSD coil, Offroad H pipe, glass packs, BBK cold air intake, ported MAF, Walbro 255, adj FPR, & NX dry 50 - 75 shot. 25RWHP 38RWTQ
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From: Hartsdale, NY
Patman#1:
Yeh, I expect the price of C5s will dip some more now that the C6s are about to hit the market....make sure your buy one that used only Royal Purple...
You can see the new Vette in Today's USA Today newspaper....sold at all reputable Canadian newsstands... (about 50 cents - USDs)
...as you know, you can buy a used LS1 F-body now for cheap too - about $10K - US....
P.S. ...My PCV oil catch can is accumulating H2O - no crankcase oil, however; they keep telling me here that it is OK; does your oil anaysis guy know anything about this phenominon?
Yeh, I expect the price of C5s will dip some more now that the C6s are about to hit the market....make sure your buy one that used only Royal Purple...
You can see the new Vette in Today's USA Today newspaper....sold at all reputable Canadian newsstands... (about 50 cents - USDs)
...as you know, you can buy a used LS1 F-body now for cheap too - about $10K - US....
P.S. ...My PCV oil catch can is accumulating H2O - no crankcase oil, however; they keep telling me here that it is OK; does your oil anaysis guy know anything about this phenominon?
