Ryan02SS

iTrader: (3)

2002TAWS6, My ASP pulley makes no noise whatsoever that I can hear. It sounded the same after taking off the stock crank pulley. Did you torque it to the proper spec? I've heard a few LS1's tensioner pulleys making the squeaking sound your talking about. I ported my own throttle body, spent a good 12-15 hours work on it and really did a nice job. I compared it to a TR ported one and mine actually seemed a bit smoother and more polished. After I installed it I could tell the engine had better throttle response and seemed to pull slightly harder in the upper rpms. After being tuned at Rapid I pulled 399rwhp @ 386rwtq thru an open QTEC I had on at the time. The Corsa muffler I just added is a little loud with an ORY for my tastes so I'm going to a Catted Y pipe with Carsound Highflow cats to quiet it down and kill the rasp. I figure then I'll be in the high 380's low 390's. To me it's worth losing a few HP but the car is gonna sound sooo much better with the cats. My mods are in my sig below...

2002_TAWS6

Wow Im glad you dont have pulley noises. I guess theres still hope for the noise to disappear. Its funny how when I first installed the pulley there was no squeaking noises whatsoever. Put a couple of miles on it then the noise appeared. I replaced the belt tensioner after that and the noise was not gone but highly reduced. Drove the car the next day and the squeaking sound is now back how it was before the belt tensioner was replaced . I guess maybe the belt tensioner went bad again? or maybe now has a short life span since I sprayed my car ? crazy thought but I just ran out of ideas. I guess ill just have to replace it again and go on from there..

Thanks a ton for explaining the mods and stating the dyno figures. You just did my homework for me . I always thought ill absolutely HAVE TO remove the cats to hit 400rwhp (thats ofcourse if i dont touch the heads just add bolt ons) and you just proved it for me thanks a ton for that!
.... Of course I assume you drive a manual...Right?

Did you happen to dyno it with the cutout closed? What gains are you expecting from the cutout (hp & tq)?

I would honestly expect lower than 390rwhp with a catted y-pipe instead of open headers. I did best of 379.94rwhp on my setup however I believe you were doing better than I was but I do wish you good luck . I think the cutout after the headers did a great improvement but you never know as every car is different sometimes...

399rwhp Cool! But I do understand why your exhaust setup is just too loud for you. Going with cats will definetly be worth those headaches im sure. I think its too loud for my tastes as it is even with the cats on there lol.

Let me know what you dyno with the catted y-pipe too if you dyno it ofcourse.. Sounds like your performance figures are better than mine but want to see how close I am to your dyno figures.

BTW, the cam I recieved was actually had a little note that said: 225/224.5 .565/.563 113.8lsa - signed by jason at TR.

What was yours? the one I intentionally ordered was a 224/224 .561 .561 114.

BTW did you happen to race a Z06 from a roll on the 399rwhp setup? Was it a 2002+ ? Interested to know big time .

Ryan02SS

iTrader: (3)

2002TAWS6... M6 you betcha! I did dyno with my cutout closed but unfortunately I had a 3" Car Chemistry baffle welded inside my I pipe and it killed my power! I lost 33rwhp @ 34rwtq with that damn thing. It was immediately ripped out when I got home. From what I've been hearing the Carsounds flow great and I should only lose about 5-7rwhp over an ORY so it's all good. Yeah the ORY and Corsa is pretty loud. I added a 18" Bullit muffler in the I pipe but it's still too raspy for my likes so the Catted Y is now my only option. I don't have my TR Cam card handy right now but off the top of my head my numbers were 224.?/224.? .563/.563 112.0 LSA and mine was alos speced my Jason. Nope haven't had the chance to take on a Z06 yet but I'm still waiting. I think I could give a stock Z06 all he wanted from a roll and more.

Here's my dyno graph...

lsx24

iTrader: (45)

2002_TAWS6, I appreciate it that was a very interesting run with the Porsche! That really helps paint a vivid picture of what it's like at different RPMs and lack of traction. You really hooked man that must have been crazy with the juice! When I was out of town recently I tried to run a Z06 in my rental Mazda 6, lol of course he pulled away just a little bit. Anyway I want to comment more about the gearing and pulling away from low RPM when I get back. Although I don't spin it out very far often, maybe I need to find a combination with that tq down low also, I would have to give up a little up high that's cool.

Ryan02SS thanks for your feedback as well. You have a slightly more potent cam but it seems to be in the same ballpark. The graph is interesting, it starts to shoot almost straight up at like 2500 RPM, and has a great curve. This might be too big for me, since I do roll on's (not full out acceleration) from ~2000 and up and would like more tq. You're right 1500 is too low, but from both of your good results with tuning I should be able to iron that out no problem.

2002_TAWS6

Ryan02ss, thanks a lot for the feedback. I always heard those 3" Car Chemistry baffle restrict lots of airflow but daaaamn 33rwhp and 34rwtq lol. That was crazy.

I also bought a 3" dynomax bullet muffler (straight thru muffler basically) and wanted to add it on to the catted y-pipe setup on initial header purchase as an *extra* muffler right before the corsa catback. Thought I could still keep it stealthy just like how the cam was on the stock manifolds. I was way wrong lol. Then I knew that I had to cut the y-pipe to fit that muffler on there and I didnt want to do that (so i can sell the y-pipe later when the time comes). The sound is pretty decent now. Just had trouble with the corsa I pipe that goes over the axle.. that welded bracket broke and drove me nuts with the rattles . Corsa took care of it though and sent me a new one ready to be installed

Wish you were here in SA my buddy would of race you in his Z06 and hes a true sport.

Thanks for the dyno graph i appreciate it. You've been very helpful
Ever think about getting 3:73s by the way? or did u say you had them already.. been smokin too much

Carvinta, oh yeah im very happy about the way it hooks up in 1st on spray. Too bad i cant do that all the time or ill be asking for rear end issues. I sprayed it today on first again racing a friend in his bolt on c5. I beat him so badly so i decided to race again without the spray. One thing i noticed was that he gained a little in 3rd gear but i was still ahead. I would say if we were to continue he would probably pull closer but i *might* still be ahead because of the higher rpm rev limit helping me out some. I know that i lost to a bolt on C5 from a 3rd gear roll but i felt like the owner had more stuff on his car than what he mentioned.. also that race was without the headers and he pulled me a little with his back bumper being close to my front tire. I surely know that with headers making 20rwhp on there now I would be able to take him as he never pulled further (distance stayed the same). That run was also without my nitto DRs on there but i doubt i needed them traction wise as those issues are not existant in 3rd gear rolls.. but maybe every little bit helps? i dont know..

May i ask why you would like higher tq figures in the lower rpm range and sacrifice tq on the upper rpm range? Do you do lots of racing from complete stops? Reason I ask is because most people want higher tq and hp numbers on the upper rpm range as it has more usuable output during shifting when racing(whereas you wont be using the high tq figure on 1500-2500rpm as soon as you start shifting into 2nd). Just curious. Not the slightest flame intended.

Glad these posts are helping you out. If you need anything shoot me back anytime and ill be more than glad to help. BTW, I enjoyed the links in ur sig videos were nice. Makes me wish I had the 911 turbo race on tape

Head thoughts: hmmm ... would i be able to spray in 1st with 3:73s? would it spin too much? Am i better off spraying with the 3:42s on there?.. maybe i should do a little more researching and reading on this ...

2002_TAWS6

ttt..

Colonel

Stealth II soundclip...

https://ls1tech.com/videos/SSIIIdle.MOV

JoeDirt

I bought Canabals bros SII and stuffed in my 2002 WS6 with the same results , she lopes just like in the vid. Sounds like pure sex to me though , cant wait to run it at the track

lsx24

iTrader: (45)

Thanks I appreciate that, I had some fun taking those clips. Actually I forgot to post my Magnaflow clips, I do think they have a good sound and if interested may be a good clip to listen to before purchase. Thanks for the comps.

The reason I am curious about 1.5k-2.5k rpm is two-fold. First, I do roll-on bursts periodically not at WOT, but not for long. Obviously like you said we'll be in the main powerband very shortly after you nail it. Second, I travel occasionally at that RPM, and any hesitation might eat up gas. After studying the characteristics of various cams around this range, I see that the power curves after adding heads are all very similar, so that peak really doesn't matter: ~350 rwtq @ 3k rpm and ~400 rwhp @ ~6200-6500 rpm. Relatively speaking, this is consistent to achieve if you have some cash to burn, and basically most bump-sticks in this range produce the same or similar values. I would say it's harder to get a reading on some of the lower RPMs, sometimes because of A4s and the corresponding converter, or sometimes the dyno just doesn’t have a chance to start at that particular RPM range, or whatever. So it's harder to gauge the SOT feeling you get, but I like to compare it to a stock powerband for comparo with what's there, if that makes sense.

Speaking of ratios and rear end gears, you have an interesting dilemma. Is it worth the extra cash to get shorter ratios, when you're spraying anyway and are hooking pretty well. I have an A4, so I'm in 2nd gear the most. First gear is fun, but is very short on the street, and without softer tread there's no way I'd be hooking with my 3.42s and street tires. By them time I get to third gear, I'm already exceeding the posted speed limits by a fat margin in many places, so really all that leaves me is to tap 2nd gear when I need to. I still have the stock converter (my web page has not been updated yet for that), so many times I'm pulling from low RPMs to get that out of the hole quickly from a roll. And finally, because I only have 2 broad gears to play with on the street from a roll (2nd and 3rd), peeps with those multiple ratios can play with more flexibility (M6), and stay up in the RPM range more easily.

Anyway I personally believe that you will be happy with 3.73, just based on theory. I mean, you should be cool with that overall ratio (did you see my page on ls1 gear ratios?), yet it should be enough of a change to be worth it. The f-body ratios are close 1-4, and it would be a similar jump from one rear end to the next but still be reasonable for mileage if you are so inclined. I would ask some fellow F-body peeps if they have done that before to get a more accurate reading, but remember you can go back to 2nd gear and 3rd gear and it'll be all good.