Piston Slap Solution, raplace pistons?
11-19-2003, 12:25 AM
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Piston Slap Solution, raplace pistons? I have an LS1 but my car is a 3rd gen. I couldnt risk just going with it how it is and hoping it doesnt ruin anything. Would it work to just have my motor bored over and honed and buy some aftermarket pistons? What pistons would you recommend?
My motor is out of a 2000 SS with 20k I was told. It was a warranty take out for piston slap. I tore her down and this thing is emaculate, there is barely any wear if any on anything... it sure doesnt look like 20k to me. I can still see the crosshatch in every cylinder, there apears to be no damage. So I dunno what to do.
My motor is out of a 2000 SS with 20k I was told. It was a warranty take out for piston slap. I tore her down and this thing is emaculate, there is barely any wear if any on anything... it sure doesnt look like 20k to me. I can still see the crosshatch in every cylinder, there apears to be no damage. So I dunno what to do.
11-19-2003, 12:41 AM
#2
You would still see the cross hatch at 100,000 miles. These things last twice as long as the old school motors.
If you are truely worried about the piston slap yes you can hone larger and put new pistons in it. I would first measure the bore and pistons see if it's in spec if it is put it back together. Most people have a cow about the piston slap. Truth is it won't hurt a thing if tolerances are correct.
Chris
If you are truely worried about the piston slap yes you can hone larger and put new pistons in it. I would first measure the bore and pistons see if it's in spec if it is put it back together. Most people have a cow about the piston slap. Truth is it won't hurt a thing if tolerances are correct.
Chris
11-19-2003, 02:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Knyghtmare
Thanks for the reply. What are the specs exactly, or where can I find them?
11-19-2003, 03:19 AM
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This project is for a street rod application. I would like it to be able to take a little abuse for some track runs as well. I would like this motor to pull 450-500 n/a at the wheels. I was told Keith Black would be a decent piston, but I dont know. This is the first time I have ever delt with the LS1. Thanks alot for your help.
11-19-2003, 05:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Knyghtmare
This project is for a street rod application. I would like it to be able to take a little abuse for some track runs as well. I would like this motor to pull 450-500 n/a at the wheels. I was told Keith Black would be a decent piston, but I dont know. This is the first time I have ever delt with the LS1. Thanks alot for your help.
11-19-2003, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Scott Turvey
Without any description of what you're going to do with the motor, I would say go with hypereutectic pistons to minimize the slap. This assumes a cruiser-type application. If you're going to be beating the motor with fairly regular high-revs, or using NOS, better to stay with a regular forged pistons and a good top ring to prevent breakage.
Are there any aftermarket hypereutectics besides the GM replacements?
I am building what you decribe, a crusier-type application, and I was looking at a set of Diamonds but in the 4032 material to get the tighter clearances. I think that a good hyper like the KBs or Speed pros would be all I need though.
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11-19-2003, 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Heretic
Are there any aftermarket hypereutectics besides the GM replacements?
I am building what you decribe, a crusier-type application, and I was looking at a set of Diamonds but in the 4032 material to get the tighter clearances. I think that a good hyper like the KBs or Speed pros would be all I need though.
I am building what you decribe, a crusier-type application, and I was looking at a set of Diamonds but in the 4032 material to get the tighter clearances. I think that a good hyper like the KBs or Speed pros would be all I need though.
11-19-2003, 01:57 PM
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There was a very similar case study a few months back; I guy bought a take out engine that had slap and could not find any issues when he took it apart....he ended up taking it to a machine shop to measure all clearances...
....you should also consider the GM service bulletin on this problem....i think it says you should take the pistons out and replace only the top ring with a special gm replacement ring (using the same pistons) - leaving the bore and lower two rings EXACTLY as is.... they claim this eliminates the slap... you have to buy the entire ring set but GM says specifically not to change all rings - only the top ring...
....you should also consider the GM service bulletin on this problem....i think it says you should take the pistons out and replace only the top ring with a special gm replacement ring (using the same pistons) - leaving the bore and lower two rings EXACTLY as is.... they claim this eliminates the slap... you have to buy the entire ring set but GM says specifically not to change all rings - only the top ring...
11-19-2003, 02:27 PM
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I put in Royal Purple...went to 10w30 and have litteraly no piston slap...during the summer months...I run 10w40....again no slap. My COLD Idle is at 60psi...my cold 2000rpm is around 80psi....My WARM idle is 45 and Warm WOT is 70psi.
RP is expensive, but I think at 110,000 miles having had 100-150 shot on the car from 50K to 90K then MTI Stage 2 Heads and X1 cam to now....I can't complain. Maybe something to try before tearing into the motor.
RP is expensive, but I think at 110,000 miles having had 100-150 shot on the car from 50K to 90K then MTI Stage 2 Heads and X1 cam to now....I can't complain. Maybe something to try before tearing into the motor.
11-20-2003, 10:37 AM
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Yeh; try to find the GM service bulletin on this.
Do a search here under "piston slap"
....I remeber it discussing the new top ring compared to the old factory top ring....it basically admits the old ring has a design flaw...
The new ring has a different contour that fits the ring land grove better when the engine is cold. In additin, I think the exterior edge of the new top ring is curved a tad to permit better sealing/seating in the bore...
...anyway, rest assured that if you put this engine in your car without any changes it will surely slap...
Do a search here under "piston slap"
....I remeber it discussing the new top ring compared to the old factory top ring....it basically admits the old ring has a design flaw...
The new ring has a different contour that fits the ring land grove better when the engine is cold. In additin, I think the exterior edge of the new top ring is curved a tad to permit better sealing/seating in the bore...
...anyway, rest assured that if you put this engine in your car without any changes it will surely slap...
