I have done a few searches but still havn't found the exact answer I was looking for, so sorry if this is a repost.

First off, I originally thought I had bad piston rings possibly, but now I am leaning toward valve seals. I still have not been able to do a leakdown or compression test, due to no time off work, but I know this needs to be done! However, I have been driving the car around and adding oil as needed, and its been running fine.

The car now will put out a puff of smoke at startup, only when cold, and takes a few times to crank it sometimes (partly due to the tune). It will constantly have some smoke coming out the tail pipes at idle, but I don't notice any large cloud of smoke while driving it.

The other day I added some oil right before I went out, the car had a hard time cranking, and then put out some large puffs of smoke while trying to drive away. Would bad valve seals cause this, because it was leaking oil in by the valves into the cylinders right after I added oil?

I've been reading up on replacing the seals, and the only part I would be missing is the valve spring compressor tool. Does anyone know of an easy one to make, or cheap to purchase, since I'm not trying to spend 100+ on the crane tool (even though its the best).

Also, I have PRC dual springs so what would be the best seals to get?

If I want to do the compression test myself, is there a specific place I can rent/purchase the tool from? Or if its just cheaper to take it somewhere, what would be a good place to go?

More info on the car: 2001 Formula, F13 Cam, pushrods, prc dual springs, ls6 intake, p/p tb, catch can, full exhaust, old tune thats gonna be redone once I get this problem solved, and 127k on the odo. Thanks in advance!

 

Get Tims valve spring tool. Do a search on here for it. Great tool for $32.

 

He also sells them on ebay. I haven't gotten around to ordering mine yet, but here's the link.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT

You might be able to get the compression tester from Autozone through their Loan-A-Tool thing. I'm not sure, but wouldnt hurt to check.

 

IF you have bad seals, you'd be getting smoke at startup, and on decel under high vacuume. rev it up in 3rd or 4th and let it decel itself and look for smoke. Seals is a good place to start, but id do a compression and leakdown first.

i recommend the crane tool as it does two springs at once.

 

Thanks for the replies! I'll check out Tim Tools for $32. I know I should use the crane tool but I can't justify spending that much on something I'm using once or twice, even if its gonna make things easier. I'm gonna check auto-zone to see if they have the compression tool, but they didn't have one when I was at advance auto the other day.

What valve seals should I get also?
Any other ideas?

 

I have a valve tool, I can't remember what kind it is but I will sell it to you for $20.00 shipped.

 

Almost everyone I talk to uses the Viton jacketed valve seals, so thats what I used. I've had no problems with them at all. Installation was a snap too.

 

Does it do one or two springs at a time? I'm kinda skeptical however since u just signed up in july...

 

+1 for tim's tool

 

I'll be picking up Tim's tool after checking it out, looks pretty good to me. Is the part he sells for gettin air into the cylinders to keep the valves up necessary?

 

I used the TDC method and it worked great. Its in the cam installation article on LS1howto.com.

 

Thanks, that website is ridiculously useful! This is a stupid question i'm sure, but am I able to spin the crank with everything still hooked up? He talks about doing it with the timing cover off and everything. I know I can access the main crank bolt from the front of the motor, so I assume thats all I have to spin. I also assume I have to put the car in neutral? Sorry for the stupid questions haha.

 

Yes you need to be in neutral, being that you cant see the dots on the timing set to start you out on TDC #1, You will need to pull the #1 spark plug and put something inside of it (small screwdriver) to feel the piston come to the top. Then that will be your starting point. I personally would then mark the crank pulley in four different spots with a reference point on the motor so when spinning you will have a spot to look at to ensure you are stopping at each interval correctly.

 

Awesome, sounds great! Thanks for the advice!