Out of a 02 ws6 6-spd, in garage.

 

Out the top is definitely the fastest for me, in a garage.

You can pull the transmission with it if you like, just pull the shifter, driveshaft, and drop the crossmember. Disconnect the clutch hydraulic line. Don't forget to unplug the reverse lockout, VSS, and backup light plugs. Or simply unbolt the transmission from the motor. Your choice.

1. Remove fans, radiator, water pump
2. Unbolt power steering pump, alternator w/ bracket, a/c compressor, and lay to the side.
3. Remove fuel rails and intake manifold.
4. Unhook all the remaining harness connections from the motor and push it out of the way (oil level sensor, crank position sensor, cam position, oil pressure, water temp, knock sensor harness, ignition coils)
5. Disconnect the ground leads on the back of the driver's side head, and the driver's side of the block.
6. Disconnect the exhaust from the headers/manifolds.
7. Drop the starter (disconnect the battery first).
8. Connect a chain TIGHT across the top of the motor, from the back of one head to the front of the other. Lift the motor enough to remove stress from the motor mounts.
9. Unbolt the motor mounts (single long bolt through the center of each).
10. Lift the motor off the frame stands, move it forward, lift, move, lift move, working your way up and out. Having the crank pulley here gives you plenty of room, but you CAN sneak it out with the pulley still attached.

 

I pulled mine out the bottom had it rolled out in front of the car in 1 hour and 5 min. from start to finish. couldnt believe how easy it was. Motor and trans. took nothing off the motor and left radiator and all in the car.

 

Holy ****!

Could you please try to describe in detail exactly what you did? You could save people here thousands of hours of time easily.

 

with the driver side head removed, getting to those top bellhousing bolts are a BREEZE
of course it probably adds more time, but its worth it to me

 

not sure how you would do it in a garage, but out of the bottom is the fastest. we had mine on the floor in 45 min.

unhook the battery
unplug the harness from inside the car (2 plugs)
unhook the wire from the fuse block on the driverside that goes to that battery
pull the pcm
pull the harness over on top of the motor
un-do the front brake lines from the abs block
disconect the starter
take driveshaft out
unhook tq arm
unhook y-pipe
with the car on the floor (unbolt the 3 shock bolts on the front on each side)
prop the tailshaft of the trans up and take out cross member
prop the k-member and take out the 6 bolts that hold the k-member to the car
unplug the abs sensors from the front wheels
then slowly lift the car off the motor/trans and route wires out of the car as needed.

im sure i missed a wire or 2 since its been a few months since i have pulled the motor. but after doing this a few times, you will get it done fast!

i will always pull the motor for head installs from now on.

might even pull the motor this winter just to clean the engine bay up some.

 

You would need a monster truck type of jack to do it out the bottom in a garage. Brains told you the easiest way. I leave the trans and pulley attached. Takes me about 4-4.5 hours taking my time with now air tools. If you got access to a lift go that route from the bottom.

 

What do you use to lift the car off of the motor when doing the motor out of the bottom? This is assuming there's no lift.

 

Well speaking from doing this many times I can tell you there are a lot of ways
to get it out the bottom with only floor jack and jack stands. Or if you have an
engine hoist you can lift the car off the motor. I have a cart that is basicly four casters and wood that I place under the motor and trany and I like lifting the car off and rolling it out through the fenderwell. I leave all suspension and wiring with the motor and then you can get to all the bolts with an impact and dismantle everything you need to FAST.No problem at all in a garage assuming that is atleast a two car if it is a single (almost unherd of now days) you are crazy for even trying it in that small of a garage. If you want further instructions Call me on my cell I can walk you through it (713)302-0737 Jeff

 

I got a question im pullin my motor from the top and I have no idea where to lift it from?

 

If your lifting from the top, screw the chain in on the front of one side of the head and the rear on the opposite side head

 

Here's what I'm going to use to drop the motor from the bottom, available at your local Harbor Frieght store. It's a hydralic lift cart rated for 1100 lbs.

 

A guy I know used an engine lift "cherry picker" to lift the front of the car high enough so he could roll the engine out.

 

Old thread, but wanted to say thanks for the help. Just got my motor out the bottom in ~4hrs taking my time. Took a while to get my y-pipe off I used a Cherry-picker to lift the body up. Any questions, just ask.

I put a quick page up with the motor/trans out if it helps anyone. http://j.cz28.com/motorout.htm

'J

 

If you take it out the bottom will it make it very hard to get your alignment correct again? Also where on the body do you tie the engine hoist to?

 

I was going to say the same thing about getting your alignment straight after removing the whole K-member with the motor assy.I was at one time going to do from the bottom,but I was told later that I would need to get the alignment done again.So in the end I just did it from the top.Would any of you guys no what a typical alignment job might cost?

 

No alignment needed. You are not touching the bolts that control the alignment they are located on the K-member so if you do not remove them and you reinstall you motor with all the suspension still attached you will be fine. Now if you do then that is a different story. So just leave the lower A-arm alone and you will be fine.

 

A typical front end alignment costs me $65.00 or so.

 

Where did you attach the engine hoist to? For people without a lift that want to drop the engine from the bottom, this seams like the only way to go.

 

I MUCH rather pull it from the top so you dont have to do something with the K member and the whole assembly... Seems like twice the work to me. Remove the whole K member with all attached and then remove the goodies and you still have a car you cant move and a K member with a motor on it you have to remove still....

Just take it from the top