hammertime

iTrader: (1)

The cheater cam is designed to make the most power with stock exhaust manifolds, and you'll only get the full benefit with the upgrades in the transmission. You should investigate some other cams to make the most of a better flowing exhaust system. You can use more intake duration and more overlap, but still make good power without an obnoxious exhaust.

JRracing

iTrader: (35)

+1.

hammertime

iTrader: (1)

From the Auto Trans Stickies

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

It sounds like you are getting the jist of everything and taking it in well.

I like your LT header and y-pipe choice cheap but it will get the job done. The lid is fine and if you can work out how to tune well with the diablosport keep it since it works for you. The 3400 stall sounds good for your DD but will limit your cam choices but not too much especially for what you are looking for. I think a good tried and proven 224/224 581/581 112 lsa grind is perfect in your case along with the 243 heads. For the most out of your combo look into maybe even milling them slightly for a compression boost and leave the ports alone. I'd upgrade to PAC 1518's or Comp 918 valve springs for any decent cam such as the one I suggested. There also is no reason why your couldn't run a 224/228 or even a 228/228 grind with a little more lift say 588/588 on a 112. I think your stock gears with these two cams and your stall will suffice. Don't forget a tranny cooler also as they are a must with a stall. This will help with transmission longevity and asides from a built tranny its the closest you will get to maintaining its current state. The ported TB and pulley are great ideas and should net you another 15rwhp together.

I think with all these mods done with a 224r cam and 243 heads 400 rwhp is not out of reach whatsoever. Especially with the 228 grind. Hope this helps you!

oddwraith

iTrader: (1)

Yes it does. Okay, now where did I put that money again? Yeah some of it is going to have to be next spring Thanks again for the suggestions, I have read quite a bit on here and it seems that the info is always consistent and clear. Makes "making a choice" much easier by learning from other's mistakes and successes. So just to recap, the cheater cam is worth it using stock manifolds? Or is it something I should stay away from?

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

I wouldn't say it is a cam to stay away from, just that there are much better choices for your certain application that would work much better and perform to your likings in this case. I'd really like to see you get a 224/224 581/581 112 lsa cam. If you look right now TSP is having a huge blowout on cams and there are tons that you could benefit from for really cheap here is the link. They are also having deals on pushrods and valve springs.https://ls1tech.com/forums/lsx-parts...-specials.html

Here are just a couple I think would work for you in no particular order but if you wanted to stay with a single spring the last two cams wouldn't work because I am almost positive anything over .599 lift requires a double spring. But the first 3 I would run a PAC 1518 spring or a Comp 918. The 112 lsa's would be very good for you since you don't want to spin the motor to the moon, but the 114 will idle smoother and be easier to tune but will ramp the rpm range up a good 300-400 rpm's as I have said before. Take some time and read up on these cams as I think you will find these will work for you very well and with a 3200-3600 rpm stall. GL!!!

228R 228/228 .588/.588 112+2
224R 224/224 .581/.581 112+2
TR224 224/224 563/563 114+4
225/225 .617/.617 112+2
225/228 .617/.588 112+2

oddwraith

iTrader: (1)

Just wondering how come some of the cams on that list say "dyno"? Does that just mean a dyno tune is required? Where would a cam only setup with the 224/224 112 lsa 581/581 leave me? If I did the cam first (before lts) would I still get good gains, and would I HAVE to find a tuner? How do the a4 hold up with full bolt on cammed power? I don't launch hard btw.

Thanks for all your help

Hamrdown

iTrader: (25)

It means if you click on the link they have dyno charts posted of customers gains. You don't launch hard because you don't have a big enough stall. A cam would require tuning. Bolt ons and a cam work great if they are set up as a combo for your goals. A cam with no stall is going to leave you dissapointed. Plus it will make the trans work harder than it has to. Unless you go with a cheater cam I wouldn't even consider it until all of the supporting mods have been done. Plus the gains that you would get from a cam alone will be less than the gains from long tubes and a stall. If all your doing is looking at the price of a cam and valvespring kit and thinking that is all you need you are mistaken. You have to take into account all of the gaskets which add up quickly, all fluids, while your in there you may as well replace the oil pump and timing chain ($250), tool rentals, crank bolt, and the list goes on. It would be cheaper to get headers and a stall. Your car would wake up considerably.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Fixed A cam without doing an aftermarket converter is a joke. I did my converter first.

oddwraith

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I guess I'm guilty of putting the cart before the horse from time to time. Usually my posts about modding go full circle and come back to the same thing, I need headers. So I guess there's no avoiding it on an ls1 fbody, seems everyone likes them and the general concensus is it's crucial for any real serious modding later. I've also heard about stalling a lot and only skipped that this summer on the recommendation of a local tranny guy. I've since changed my mind and think I have one picked out. I am still interested in camming but I may as well wait for heads too. I'm sure you are right about the price adding up real fast, been there before with other vehicles. Thanks for the input.

oddwraith

iTrader: (1)

I hear what you're saying man. But I was just wondering if after stalling, camming, and other supporting mods, how does the stock a4 hold up? Any requirement for a built 4l60e or other? Sorry I just don't know much other than they will break before the rear in most cases.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

They are a weak link but knock on wood mine is doing great. Alwyas has.

garygnu65

you can mail you ecm to a couple of tuners on these websites,with a list of all your mods.