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160K. Heads and cam??

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Old Sep 12, 2009 | 02:34 PM
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Default 160K. Heads and cam??

I've got 160k on my LS1 now. It still runs awesome, but I recently developed a lifter tick.

I'm thinking about doing some PRC stage 2.5 5.3's with ls6 springs, ASA cam, LS7 lifters, LS2 timing set, and maybe pushrods. But i'm worried about having too many miles on the bottom.

It is quiet, I maybe go thru a quart of oil in 3k miles. Occasionally I can smell some burnt oil after long idle periods or on decel.

What do you guys think?
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Old Sep 12, 2009 | 02:46 PM
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I would get that oil burning smell thing checked out before doing anything else.
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Old Sep 12, 2009 | 04:28 PM
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I'm leaning towards the valve seals causing the smell. Its only at times of high vacuum that I get the smell. I've replaced all gaskets and have no oil leaks so I know thats not the cause. I've replaced the valley cover with an 04+ LS6 style with built in oil/air seperator.

Tomorrow I think I will do a compression check if I can find a place to rent the tool.

P.S. If anyone has any of these things layin around that they want to get rid of shoot me a PM
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Old Sep 12, 2009 | 05:12 PM
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I would do;
LS2 timing chain (double roller)
Comp 921 Springs
Injectors
oil pump (LS6 ported/Melling)
Intake ( VAraram VRB2)
MAF
LS7 lifters are good but regular stock lifters with the right set up u can rev them to 7K no issues. But do replace them 160K motor needs it.
manifold (LS6/ FAST ported) They have a 90 MM LS6 out now if your looking to upgrade TB
Jantzer performance has great prices on their 90MM TB's
catch can specially if your going N/A high Compression 11.1:1 or higher w/ 59CC chambers
are you doing valves if so make sure to have at least .080 clearance valve to piston
(LS6 valves hollow/sodium filled rockouto has great prices on them)
the cam specs are 226/236 at .050" and .525 lift on both sides right
you might think that the 921 are over kill but they don't break, wear out, loose square. By far the best springs I have ever used.
A4 or M6? if A4 do an aftermarket tranny cooler or 2 depends where you are. (ie heat) and yopu might want to look at RPM if your going to upgrade the tranny ( I have an RPM Stage V 4L60E)
American Racing Exhaust (NICK) is by far the best individual I have ever dealt with and not just because I am originally from NYC the guy is top notch their 1 3/4 primaries hold to 600rwhp

Oh before I forget upgrade your rockers. Get the stock LS6 series they are good for any application. The only time I would suggest to go with after market would be if your going .650 lift or higher that is it.

Last edited by 02*C5; Sep 12, 2009 at 05:23 PM.
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Old Sep 12, 2009 | 09:32 PM
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Wow...That's a lot of miles. Hopefully the botton end will hold up.
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Old Sep 12, 2009 | 09:39 PM
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Do a compression check. If all 8 are in specs, run it.
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Old Sep 12, 2009 | 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Damian
Do a compression check. If all 8 are in specs, run it.
^^^The bottom line......
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Old Sep 12, 2009 | 10:56 PM
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I would defintly replace the pushrods and oil pump if you decide to do it.
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Old Sep 13, 2009 | 07:32 AM
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I have 120k miles and was wondering the same. I guess changing out the top end refreshes half the engine with new parts. Just be ready with cash to get a new short block if the bottom end goes south. Or rebuild the bottom end at the same time. Then might as well throw in a 383 stroker crank.
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Old Sep 13, 2009 | 10:02 AM
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I replaced the oil pump in December with a stock replacement. Would that need to be upgraded?

Injectors. Hmm didn't think about those before, would they need to be upgraded to support the mod?

I currently have pacesetter headers with a custom 3" Y pipe and flowmaster merge to a 3" magnaflow cb. I also have an LS6 intake with some port work done to it and a Ported TB. I guess I have full bolt ons minus a pulley.

Whats the differences between the LS6 rocker and the LS1 rocker? I have read some people going to 1.8s with the ASA cam, but thats not quite in the budget for this round.

I'm giving myself a $2000 cap for this little adventure.

Dom - I was thinking along the same lines you are. After this I will start stashing money away for a shortblock or perhaps watch for a low mileage unit. I figure the heads/cam and other parts can always be swapped over to another short block.

My goals for this are to freshen up the car some and make a little more power. I don't race the car I just drive it a lot (about 25k a year) and like to have fun every once in a while.

Oh and 02*C5 its an M6. And I'll be putting a LS7 clutch in about the same time, but thats not included in the budget.
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Old Sep 13, 2009 | 10:36 AM
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I would not do it if:

You need the car as a DD

or couldn't afford a new motor if it pooped out on you.

That's a lot of miles, it may handle it for a while, it may not..
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Old Sep 13, 2009 | 11:07 AM
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160K is getting up there, but it's by no means "near the end" for a properly maintained motor. There are several 200K+ LS1's running around, that have been taken care of. I put a cam in a guy's 98 Vette a few years back when it had 170K on it. Last I heard he clicked 240K and still purring like a kitten. Of course this man is religious about checking his oil level between oil changes, something most people don't do.

If the bottom is tight, the only thing I'd recommend is running something that peaks ~61-6300 max. That way you're not spinning it to the moon to make power. That will allow the bottom end to live longer.
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Old Sep 13, 2009 | 11:33 AM
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Do a compression AND leakdown + oil analysis and that will give a good idea where you stand on your block health.
As Damian said a mild lobed midrange cam might do nicely if all is Ok.
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Old Sep 13, 2009 | 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by danbo313
I replaced the oil pump in December with a stock replacement. Would that need to be upgraded?
I don't think so I am sure your good but if you do an LS6 ported is a great replacement also.

Originally Posted by danbo313
Injectors. Hmm didn't think about those before, would they need to be upgraded to support the mod?
Depends on how much HP ur looking to make. Stock injectors are good for 450 rwhp


Originally Posted by danbo313
I currently have pacesetter headers with a custom 3" Y pipe and flowmaster merge to a 3" magnaflow cb. I also have an LS6 intake with some port work done to it and a Ported TB. I guess I have full bolt ons minus a pulley.
good on exhaust I don't really think you need a pulley great for dyno numbers and that's all I feel they are good for.

Originally Posted by danbo313
Whats the differences between the LS6 rocker and the LS1 rocker? I have read some people going to 1.8s with the ASA cam, but thats not quite in the budget for this round.
241's LS1 rockers 144750-16 pn, 243's LS6 rockers 51185 pn. I do not think there much difference if any. The 1.8 rockers are just going to give you a higher final lift number. That's why i went with a cam that has 614/614 no need for bigger rockers and less possibility of valve train failure.
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Old Sep 13, 2009 | 06:28 PM
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Ran out of time to do a compression test today. Are leak down testers rentable at AutoZone/e.t.c? I did some pokin around on their site and didn't see one. I will check the store tomorrow.

Hooking up a vacuum guage would confirm my lifter problem right? It should cause the needle to flutter around if I remember correctly.

I hardly rev the car past 5.5k now (my clutch doesn't like it very much) I'd probably leave the limiter at or near stock.

I forgot to mention one main goal: eliminate the lifter tick
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Old Sep 13, 2009 | 07:45 PM
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Depends on how much HP ur looking to make. Stock injectors are good for 450 rwhp
His car is a 99, 26lb injectors. I usually see those start hitting 95%+ duty cycle around 440rwhp. At bare minimum if money is an issue, upgrade to a set of the 28's for cheap. I've pushed stock 28lb injectors to 470rwhp before and was still under 100%.
good on exhaust I don't really think you need a pulley great for dyno numbers and that's all I feel they are good for.
Not only is that bad advice, it's incorrect and you're spouting off your own opinions as facts. I've swapped pulleys at the track before to see what the difference was. It's a SOLID 1 tenth/1 mph in ANY car. I've seen as high as 2/2. It's absolutely worth it if the stock pulley is coming off anyway. Not trying to bust your ***** here, but this is how inaccurate information infests the internet.
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Old Sep 13, 2009 | 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by danbo313
I forgot to mention one main goal: eliminate the lifter tick
I do believe Autozone rents them. If not try, Advanced Auto Parts.

From the sounds of it, you don't have the intention to spend a lot of money on this job. This is what I would do.

-Pull heads. Have them pressure checked, cleaned, and decked .015 by a machine shop. While they're there, go ahead and have them replace your valve seals and valve springs.
-Replace lifters of course
**IF you decide to go with a cam**
-ASP pulley
-LS2 timing chain (if it wasn't replaced with your pump in Dec)
-Mild cam, something in the 224-228 range on a 108-111ICL that will make a nice fat TQ curve but peak early so you're not spinning the **** out of the guts
-Have it tuned

And call it done.
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Old Sep 13, 2009 | 09:30 PM
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Well said sir ...
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Old Sep 14, 2009 | 12:33 AM
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Like I said I'm giving my self 2 grand to spend on this, but not 5k for complete engine. I would just wait, but I don't want to keep running with a bad lifter.

Oh and 400 whp is about all i'm looking to get out of this poor tired beast. What more could I expect from heads and cam on a 160k motor?

Last edited by danbo313; Sep 14, 2009 at 08:01 AM.
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Old Sep 14, 2009 | 12:46 AM
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PREDATOR-Z are the AMSOIL Oil Analyzers Test Kits any good? I'll do that ASAP if they are.

Thanks
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