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LS1 Valve Springs in a LT1?

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Old 11-29-2003, 12:59 AM
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Cal
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Question LS1 Valve Springs in a LT1?

My wife's LT1 TA needs new valve springs, and I have my nearly new stock "take off" LS1 springs and retainers sitting here. Looks like they would fit except the LT1 spring seat washer is a little too big. I think they might work if I used the spring seats for a LS1. Has anyone tried this? I don't want to order the LS1 spring seats unless they will work since there are restock fees for returning them.

I posted this in the LT1 section also, but that place is like a ghost town, so I decided to post here also.
Old 11-29-2003, 01:00 AM
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No they will not work, and would be a stupid thing to do even if they did...

You can get double springs for Lt1's for less than 100 bucks these days. Check out www.camaroz28.com in the for sale section.

Josh
Old 11-29-2003, 01:04 AM
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Thanks for the link, but why would it be stupid? The LS1 springs have the beehive shape with smaller, lighter retainers which should make them better than the stock LT1 springs. The spring height and number of coils are the same, while the wire diameter is smaller, so there is no way they could have coil bind.

Last edited by Cal; 11-29-2003 at 02:31 AM.
Old 11-29-2003, 02:36 AM
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Well, the dual Isky LT1 springs are a little under $100, but require a $40 spring seat kit. I just found an even better deal: LT4 springs from SDPC for $32.95 + $14.95 for LT4 Spring Caps. I wish LS1 parts were this cheap!
Old 11-29-2003, 03:57 AM
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i was calling around a while back, for a friend of mine
looking for parts on his 93 TransAm, and Comp told me to use the 918's or 987's
arent those the same exact spring on the LS1?
Old 11-29-2003, 01:00 PM
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No, the LT1 springs aren't beehive shaped like the LS1 springs are. And the LT1 springs are a slightly larger diameter. BTW, I figured out how to use the LS1 springs on my LT1. All you have to do is install the LS1 springs on the LT1 head using the LS1 retainers (spring caps) and the LS1 spring shims under the springs. So actually, the Comp 918's would fit an LT1 by doing the same thing since they have the stock LS1 shape.

Last edited by Cal; 11-29-2003 at 01:12 PM.
Old 10-20-2004, 01:31 AM
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918s fit, you need a .050 installed height keeper to keep the pressure down.
Old 10-20-2004, 07:56 AM
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now correct me if 'm worng, but isn't the LT1 valve stem diameter 11/32"? i know the LS1 valve stems are 8mm. just wasn't sure about the LT1. if so, then you would need retainers and locks for 11/32" valve stem to make the LS1 springs work.
Old 10-20-2004, 08:14 AM
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Actually, they are a slightly different diameter (the LT1 stems are a little bigger) but the LS1 retainers and locks still work fine on a LT1. The washer or seat that goes under the spring is the biggest problem; the hole in that must be made larger. And the metal is hardened, so you need a carbide drill bit or lathe cutter. (I bored mine on a lathe)

I've had LS1 springs and retainers on the wife's LT1 since January with no problems.
Old 10-20-2004, 06:51 PM
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You are running a dangerous combo. That is a metric retainer not made for a 11/32 valve. I'll bet the locks don't set correctly in the retainer. Comp makes all the parts you need to make a beehive/ 918 spring to work properly. You are just asking for trouble.
Old 10-20-2004, 07:58 PM
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Actually the locks sit in there pretty good; just slightly higher than normal. I had an engine builder that has done a lot of SBC's look at it, and he thought they were fine. Quite a few miles on it without incident as well.
Old 10-20-2004, 08:50 PM
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Best of luck on it. I personally wouldn't have cut corners like that. Sometimes it's just better to suck the cost up and do it with the stuff designed to do it. A new motor would run more than $200 of valvetrain parts.
Old 10-20-2004, 09:09 PM
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Lets us think about this... You cut a corner on the ONE part you should not cut corners on in a SBC of any gen?

COOL!

BTW I do not care how long they have been on I would Fix them
Old 10-20-2004, 10:31 PM
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They really do fit well, and I know this by experiance, and by measurement with a micrometer. I'm only sharing the information here to help others that may be building an old motor and not want to put a lot of money into it. Nobody HAS to do this way.

And if someone else had tried it and had a valve train failure, I would listen. But so far all I have heard is opinions, no one with actual experiance.



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