Help! Crank pulley fell off!
Help! Crank pulley fell off! My friend was driving down the interstate and long story short I pulled over and the A/B belt was wrapped around the crank, only thing holding it on was the steering rack. I'm thinking he stripped the crank snout if the pulley came off.
Sorry all, I typed that last night on my phone really quickly, here's the fully story:
We're trying to figured out if he damaged anything, the crank pulley on HIS corvette came off, not mine. He said he was driving down the road and smoke started coming from the hood (oil hitting the hot motor) and when he stopped he seen the pulley had backed off the block, the only thing holding it on was the steering rack. He told me the guy who did his cam reused the stock bolt, so I was thinking the bolt backed out. We're hoping that's all it is and he hasn't stripped the threads in this crank snout.
Sorry all, I typed that last night on my phone really quickly, here's the fully story:
We're trying to figured out if he damaged anything, the crank pulley on HIS corvette came off, not mine. He said he was driving down the road and smoke started coming from the hood (oil hitting the hot motor) and when he stopped he seen the pulley had backed off the block, the only thing holding it on was the steering rack. He told me the guy who did his cam reused the stock bolt, so I was thinking the bolt backed out. We're hoping that's all it is and he hasn't stripped the threads in this crank snout.
Last edited by Tyler valo; Sep 13, 2009 at 11:12 AM.
i had a problem like that shortly after my underdrive pulley was installed except it didnt fall all the way off.My problem was that it just wasn't torqued down enough. So once i did that it was fine.
caused by incorrect installation or insufficient tq to bolt.
stock pulleys dont just fly off, perhaps the bolts were stripped when removing or installing new one and or didnt tq bolt correctly
stock pulleys dont just fly off, perhaps the bolts were stripped when removing or installing new one and or didnt tq bolt correctly
I hate reading threads like this it's scary as hell. I was given a figure of 238 ft lbs with ARP moly lube directly from a tech at ARP over the phone. I went with 240lbs and marked the bolts head and damper with paint the trace any movement so far so good. As for the above comment of using a caliper for proper seating assurance thats exactly what I did and it's a very good idea. This is just how I do it but be sure he is not using the bolt to pull the damper onto the crank. The proper way is to use an installer that FULLY seats the balancers snout up against the oil pump drive gear BEFORE the permanent crankbolt is fastened as described above. Again thats just me there will be guys that will tell you using the bolt to seat it is fine they did it and have no issues but it's a personal call.
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Wrong. Stock bolt is as follows:
Install damper with correct tool.
Use old bolt, torque to 240 lb-ft.
Remove old bolt.
Measure crank depth.
Install new bolt, torque to 37 lb-ft.
Install rotation meter and rotate bolt 140 degrees.
You can't do a stock GM bolt by torque, the angle is what is used to ensure that the bolt preload is correct.
To the OP: Are you sure the bolt backed out or did the elastomer in the damper fail and the outer pulley is coming off of the hub?
Install damper with correct tool.
Use old bolt, torque to 240 lb-ft.
Remove old bolt.
Measure crank depth.
Install new bolt, torque to 37 lb-ft.
Install rotation meter and rotate bolt 140 degrees.
You can't do a stock GM bolt by torque, the angle is what is used to ensure that the bolt preload is correct.
To the OP: Are you sure the bolt backed out or did the elastomer in the damper fail and the outer pulley is coming off of the hub?
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Verdad Gallardo Wrong. Stock bolt is as follows:
Install damper with correct tool.
Use old bolt, torque to 240 lb-ft.
Remove old bolt.
Measure crank depth.
Install new bolt, torque to 37 lb-ft.
Install rotation meter and rotate bolt 140 degrees.
You can't do a stock GM bolt by torque, the angle is what is used to ensure that the bolt preload is correct.
To the OP: Are you sure the bolt backed out or did the elastomer in the damper fail and the outer pulley is coming off of the hub?
Install damper with correct tool.
Use old bolt, torque to 240 lb-ft.
Remove old bolt.
Measure crank depth.
Install new bolt, torque to 37 lb-ft.
Install rotation meter and rotate bolt 140 degrees.
You can't do a stock GM bolt by torque, the angle is what is used to ensure that the bolt preload is correct.
To the OP: Are you sure the bolt backed out or did the elastomer in the damper fail and the outer pulley is coming off of the hub?
Edit: We're calling the crank pulley and damper the same thing right?
I wouldn't use the old bolt to pull it on, a lot of guys ended up with messed up crank threads doing that. You can make a tool for $20 and do it correctly. Not worth the risk.
I bought the parts from McMaster-Car, but basically threaded rod, nuts and washers and you're good to go. Slide pulley onto crank, remove nut on right side and screw in threaded rod until it bottoms in crank, back off 1/2 turn, rotate nut and washer stack until it contacts pulley then hold the jam nuts and rotate nut to press on pulley. The actual Kent-Moore piece that replaces the pulleys is another $10 from fleabay. That piece will do double duty and install the crank timing sprocket as well.
