Stock bottom LS1, TFS 515 kit, low numbers
#22
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Well, I know the dots were lined up cuz I have it back apart, but degreeing was one of the things I was wanting to look at.
The clutch should have given off a smell no? I can hear what sounds like one of the plate springs moving back and forth when you rotate the motor by hand, you hear it jingle at the right spots in rotation...
The clutch should have given off a smell no? I can hear what sounds like one of the plate springs moving back and forth when you rotate the motor by hand, you hear it jingle at the right spots in rotation...
#28
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did anyone happen to do a vacuum test on all the valves on the heads before they were put on. 90% of the after market heads that i see need a little vavle job done so they seal proporly.
#30
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Pushrods are the 7.5's that came with the kit, still the original lifters. They were about 1-1.25 turns from zero lash to ready to tq. Like I said my next step is put the rockers and rods back on and do a comp. test, that should tell me whether that is an issue I hope.
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#31
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Pushrods are the 7.5's that came with the kit, still the original lifters. They were about 1-1.25 turns from zero lash to ready to tq. Like I said my next step is put the rockers and rods back on and do a comp. test, that should tell me whether that is an issue I hope.![Bang Head](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
![Bang Head](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
you are using roller tip rockers right? I was just looking at TF heads this morning and said they were required
#33
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^yeah he's right, i have only installed one cam that has not had to be adjusted when i degreed it, i couldnt start to count how many cams i've installed, every one of them with the exception of the one has been anywhere from 1* to 4* off, and 4* can make a big difference on power, i wouldnt put it back together without degreeing it.
#34
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The rockers are the Harland Sharp roller's that came in the TF kit.
I do intend on degreeing it to see where it is, but I have to ask, so many people just stick em in and end up with good numbers...Also I would expect the curve to shift one direction or the other, not just go up or down, am I wrong?
Thanks very much for your input guys![Nod](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_nod.gif)
I do intend on degreeing it to see where it is, but I have to ask, so many people just stick em in and end up with good numbers...Also I would expect the curve to shift one direction or the other, not just go up or down, am I wrong?
Thanks very much for your input guys
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#38
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I would look into your pushrod length, probably holding the valves open if they are too long. Shoot for .020-.080" preload, also make your cam is degreed to the proper intake centerline. Double check all your plugs and wires, it is not hard to crack the porcelin on a plug. Ohm out your wires, seems like you have a dead hole.
#39
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I would look into your pushrod length, probably holding the valves open if they are too long. Shoot for .020-.080" preload, also make your cam is degreed to the proper intake centerline. Double check all your plugs and wires, it is not hard to crack the porcelin on a plug. Ohm out your wires, seems like you have a dead hole.
The wire and plug issues were verified on the dyno as well as there were no misfires showing up in the logs.
#40
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The valvetrain and cam degree I can agree on. Those are the next things to look at. The car belongs to a friend of mine that has been out of town a lot recently and so it's hard to get together to work on it.
The wire and plug issues were verified on the dyno as well as there were no misfires showing up in the logs.
The wire and plug issues were verified on the dyno as well as there were no misfires showing up in the logs.
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