Changing rod bolts
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Changing rod bolts In the stock rods what is everyone swapping to? What's involved in doing them in-car?
I have 38k miles but doing the entire top half so I was thinking about swapping them over the Winter. Thanks for any help!
I have 38k miles but doing the entire top half so I was thinking about swapping them over the Winter. Thanks for any help!
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
I'm running ARPs in my new build. If you don't have a stretch gauge then ARP recommends tightening and loosening them three times with lube to properly stretch them. To do them in car you would need to remove the oil pan, pick up tube and windage tray. Then you have full access to the rod bolts. Replace one at a time till all are done.
Last edited by 01ssreda4; Oct 24, 2009 at 10:00 AM.
rod bolts I think it would be easier just to pull it out, especially if you are redoing the whole top end anyways. To do the rod bolts from the bottom, your more than likely gonna have to "lift" the motor some how anyways just to get the pan out and give you some room to get between the k member....... then to get a stretch gauge in there or loosen/torque 3 times....... Man-o-man, I would just pull it, put it on a stand, and be done w/it!!!!!
Just my $.02........
Just my $.02........
To do it in the car you'll need to support the motor from the top and drop the K-member. Talk about a pain in the ***.
If you're going to do the entire top end and put rod bolts in, you just need to pull the motor and put it on a stand. You'll be saving yourself a lot of heartache.
I use ARP's, and you tighten/loosen 3 times, then the final TQ is 40ft lbs IIRC. Do one at a time.
If you're going to do the entire top end and put rod bolts in, you just need to pull the motor and put it on a stand. You'll be saving yourself a lot of heartache.
I use ARP's, and you tighten/loosen 3 times, then the final TQ is 40ft lbs IIRC. Do one at a time.
Use the Katech Rod bolts Yup, since you have the top end tore down, just take the extra steps to pull the motor, and do it right. Easier to torque the heads down with it out too.
As far as rod bolts, I switched mine to the Katech's Super nice piece. They are designed specifically for these engines. and there is no torquing and loosening crap. Put them in, and torque to 50ft lbs and go. I have heard alot of greif concerning the ARP bolts, but not the katechs, thats why I chose them. http://store.katechengines.com/share...ount2=29456734
But definately easier to pull the motor, and do all this work, plus you know its clean, and done right, its not that bad and can be done from the top thats how I did mine,,see
As far as rod bolts, I switched mine to the Katech's Super nice piece. They are designed specifically for these engines. and there is no torquing and loosening crap. Put them in, and torque to 50ft lbs and go. I have heard alot of greif concerning the ARP bolts, but not the katechs, thats why I chose them. http://store.katechengines.com/share...ount2=29456734
But definately easier to pull the motor, and do all this work, plus you know its clean, and done right, its not that bad and can be done from the top thats how I did mine,,see
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From: North East, MD
Wow! Wonder how many are running just fine with stock bolts then. Just a ton of work at this point for rod bolts. I would almost rather just build another motor "just in case" and swap the whole thing when needed.
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
Stock rod bolts are ****, or so I have heard. K member will have to drop at least 8 inches to remove the pan. Motor will have to be supported from the top as stated above.
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What is different about the later years? I won't turn over 6500 for sure!
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I'm new to LS so maybe this is a dumb comment. On old style SBC and BBC, if you changed rod bolts you had to resize rods to ensure they fit properly. Not something you can do at home. Curious what has changed in LS that would make this easier.
Fractured rod caps maybe? I am debating this as well because my stock (for now) engine is on a stand. Some people tell me they still need to be resized, as alot of people who just swapped bolts, have spun bearings. On the fence myself, as I'm new to these engines as well. If resizing is needed, I would rather just upgrade to better rods at the same time. Watching this closely.
Speaking of stretch gauges, has anyone ran into one that didnt clear, or just over all had trouble with it?? I want to get one, but wanna make sure I get one that will work for LS engines.
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I'm with you in a way. Put $200 worth of rod bolts in a powdered metal rod.
From info I see here I am just staying put for my 224/228 cam combo. I will just start getting good pieces for a 408 build later using all forged pieces.
From info I see here I am just staying put for my 224/228 cam combo. I will just start getting good pieces for a 408 build later using all forged pieces.
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Why wouldn't you bother at under 6500 RPM?
Do you really know WTF you're talking about?
I doubt that you do, but I'm sure you read it somewhere, right...?
Shouldn't be giving advice unless you know what you're doing.
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I was a believer that the "stock 01-02" rod bolts would be just fine. That is untill it let go at 7000 rpm. I wont ever do a heads/cam motor again if spinning over 6500 on a stock rod bolt, no matter what year.