Need HELP! please please!!g5x4
Thanks
I dont know if they were crappy. They were from a company that makes gaskets but im not sure whats the thickness of it. Do you know GM gasket stock thickness??
Do you know GM gasket stock thickness??
How did you check you PTVC? Is there a tool that I can use to find out how much clearance I have to work with. I rather not risk it and go buy a smaller cam instead. What kind of numbers did you put down in the dyno with that cam???
You need to go to GM, and get a set of "MLS" head gaskets. Just ask for head gaskets for a 2002 Camaro Z28 and they should sell them to you. Or buy them from a distributor/sponsor---> I prefer Speed Engineering.
Username is "Speed Engineering" or website Speed Engineering?
Don't run crappy auto-parts stores version of head gaskets, and make sure you get a new set of bolts. They are stretch-to-yield. Once they are used once, they will never work again(as you already know now).
Username is "Speed Engineering" or website Speed Engineering?
Don't run crappy auto-parts stores version of head gaskets, and make sure you get a new set of bolts. They are stretch-to-yield. Once they are used once, they will never work again(as you already know now).
I dont know if they were crappy. They were from a company that makes gaskets but im not sure whats the thickness of it. Do you know GM gasket stock thickness??
How did you check you PTVC? Is there a tool that I can use to find out how much clearance I have to work with. I rather not risk it and go buy a smaller cam instead. What kind of numbers did you put down in the dyno with that cam???
I thought the G5X4 was too big for stock heads? The X3 was as big as you could go for stock heads with no PTV clearance issues? And even then you have to run a cometic gasket w/ a .040"?
stock gasket thickness is 0.052 crushed, when you order, it is normally referred to as 0.060.
I think the proper way involves putting some soft material(clay maybe?) on the piston top and running through a full cycle. Measure the thickness of the clay. Something like this, do a search for checking that clearance, there was a big thread about it.
I think the proper way involves putting some soft material(clay maybe?) on the piston top and running through a full cycle. Measure the thickness of the clay. Something like this, do a search for checking that clearance, there was a big thread about it.
stock gasket thickness is 0.052 crushed, when you order, it is normally referred to as 0.060.
I think the proper way involves putting some soft material(clay maybe?) on the piston top and running through a full cycle. Measure the thickness of the clay. Something like this, do a search for checking that clearance, there was a big thread about it.
I think the proper way involves putting some soft material(clay maybe?) on the piston top and running through a full cycle. Measure the thickness of the clay. Something like this, do a search for checking that clearance, there was a big thread about it.
No, actually it's on a 111 LSA.
My X4 cleared with stock heads/gasket...but as best I can figure, with only about .040" clearance to the intake valve. I put about 2000 miles on the car when it was cam-only.
I replaced the heads a few months after I put the cam in, and there were no marks on the pistons.
The heads that went on were milled .025", have a larger 2.02" intake valves, and I used a .040" gasket.
Since all of that killed the little clearance I had, I cut .110" deep notches in the pistons for the intake valves only to achieve approx .090" p/v clearance. I found exhaust valve clearance to be fine, no notches were needed.
I would just flycut it and be done with the issue. (ina addition to double/triple checking your timing chain is on correctly). Even if you found no contact, there would be very little clearance anyways.
My X4 cleared with stock heads/gasket...but as best I can figure, with only about .040" clearance to the intake valve. I put about 2000 miles on the car when it was cam-only.
I replaced the heads a few months after I put the cam in, and there were no marks on the pistons.
The heads that went on were milled .025", have a larger 2.02" intake valves, and I used a .040" gasket.
Since all of that killed the little clearance I had, I cut .110" deep notches in the pistons for the intake valves only to achieve approx .090" p/v clearance. I found exhaust valve clearance to be fine, no notches were needed.
I would just flycut it and be done with the issue. (ina addition to double/triple checking your timing chain is on correctly). Even if you found no contact, there would be very little clearance anyways.
Launching!
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 260
Likes: 0
From: greensboro, nc
what you can do is buy an adjustable timing set and retard the can when you retard a cam you gain pv on the intake but you loose pv on your exhaust. some race engines require this to be done even if its not ware you want the can installed. you can run them as tight as .050 on your intake and .100 on your exhaust.
IMO people who buy a cam as large as a g5x4 and try to just throw stuff together, shouldnt be doing this in the first place. It could be mis aligned, not dot to dot, a stretch would be the cam ground off, but it happens, head gasket could be thinner. Lots of possibles. You must check to make sure its aligned right, degree'ing is kinda a neccesity IMHO.. Check your ptv, if its way off still with the right head gaskets, and the heads arent milled, get the cam cam doctored, it costs $50 around here.
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I am running this camshaft currently. 5.3 heads milled 23 thousandths and a 2.08 intake valve. Using the GM LS2 MLS gasket I flycut 60 thousandths to achieve the valve drop figures LG suggested. I have always found the tech support there excellent for stuff like this.
you might try simply retarding the cam 4*. that will free up some ptv.
i would use this opportunity to mill the heads and cut reliefs in the pistons. a cam that big would like more compression.
i would use this opportunity to mill the heads and cut reliefs in the pistons. a cam that big would like more compression.
Last edited by s346k; Nov 1, 2009 at 03:52 PM.
I got everything bolted up now. I turned the crank bolt and it does not seem to hit. I might just change the head gasket to a gm headgasket just to be on the safe side. Its dot 2 dot now and it should be ready to crank. I will let ya know how it went. Thanks for the info guys. Any more info will be appreciated. Antonio.
So what was the changed by you that free'd things up? I cant see the head gasket being the main issue (not a bad idea to use the GM gasket anyway), were the timing marks off?
The guy who built it said he fly cut the pistons. The headgaskets that I bought might have been thinner than 0.0052. So I rather be safe then sorry. What could be the worst possible if the pistons hit the valves?
Well I can tell you if the head gasket thickness was causing PTV contact then you dont have enough PTV clearance in the first place no matter what gasket you use. Secondly turning a motor over by hand without any signs of "hitting" as you put it wont mean much at 6k+ RPM's. PTV contact could bend a pushrod in the best case,or bend a valve and you get to do this all over again or maybe much worse.
Well I can tell you if the head gasket thickness was causing PTV contact then you dont have enough PTV clearance in the first place no matter what gasket you use. Secondly turning a motor over by hand without any signs of "hitting" as you put it wont mean much at 6k+ RPM's. PTV contact could bend a pushrod in the best case,or bend a valve and you get to do this all over again or maybe much worse.
No, actually it's on a 111 LSA.
My X4 cleared with stock heads/gasket...but as best I can figure, with only about .040" clearance to the intake valve. I put about 2000 miles on the car when it was cam-only.
I replaced the heads a few months after I put the cam in, and there were no marks on the pistons.
The heads that went on were milled .025", have a larger 2.02" intake valves, and I used a .040" gasket.
Since all of that killed the little clearance I had, I cut .110" deep notches in the pistons for the intake valves only to achieve approx .090" p/v clearance. I found exhaust valve clearance to be fine, no notches were needed.
I would just flycut it and be done with the issue. (ina addition to double/triple checking your timing chain is on correctly). Even if you found no contact, there would be very little clearance anyways.
My X4 cleared with stock heads/gasket...but as best I can figure, with only about .040" clearance to the intake valve. I put about 2000 miles on the car when it was cam-only.
I replaced the heads a few months after I put the cam in, and there were no marks on the pistons.
The heads that went on were milled .025", have a larger 2.02" intake valves, and I used a .040" gasket.
Since all of that killed the little clearance I had, I cut .110" deep notches in the pistons for the intake valves only to achieve approx .090" p/v clearance. I found exhaust valve clearance to be fine, no notches were needed.
I would just flycut it and be done with the issue. (ina addition to double/triple checking your timing chain is on correctly). Even if you found no contact, there would be very little clearance anyways.
Congrats.