MS3 cam
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Teching In
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From: San Jose,CA
MS3 cam Hey guy I was thinking about getting the Magic Stick 3 cam, but the thing is will I be able to use my car as a daily drive. I've done a lot of searching,but some people say you can and some people say you can't. More to add my GF has a comp cam 224/224 .581/.581 with 114 LSA and the way her car sounds you can't even tell that it is cammed. I want my car to sound like that. Is it worth getting a MS3 with 114 LSA or 112 LSA is there really a difference. I know that (correct me if im wrong) with a 114 LSA you get a smooth idle and with a 112 LSA you get a coppy idle, but in the end i want more Rear wheel horse power without losing the drive ability. What do you guy think? Any suggestion on any other cams?
P.S. I would ask her about the cam but she bought her car like that.
P.S. I would ask her about the cam but she bought her car like that.
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Teching In
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: San Jose,CA
I'm just trying to get some ideas and opinions from people and No I've never been in a car with a cam that big. Is really too BIG for DD or do you have any suggestion on any other cams that will push out the most RWHP.
I dd my ms3. drove it without a tune for a while just couldnt stop if you had the ac on or it would die. but now it is tuned and runs great I love it. sounds amazing too, mine is a m6 so if you have an a4 you will have more trouble if its not tuned. JUST REMEMBER A CAMS DD ABILITY IS ALL IN THE TUNE
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Teching In
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From: San Jose,CA
so whats the difference between 112 LSA and 114 LSA, am I gaining or losing (not to good with cams) and when i mean DD i Mean about 30+ miles a day you think that o.k. with this kind of cam?
112, rougher idle, peaks earlier, more suited for manuals
114, smoother idle, peaks later, more for autos.
but like I said dd is all in the tune
Tighten (smaller LSA number)---- Widen (larger LSA number)
Moves Torque to Lower RPM ---- Raise Torque to Higher RPM
Increases Maximum Torque ---- Reduces Maximum Torque
Narrow Power band --- -------- Broadens Power Band
Builds Higher Cylinder Pressure ---- Reduce Maximum Cylinder Pressure
Increase Chance of Engine Knock ----Decrease Chance of Engine Knock
Increase Cranking Compression --- Decrease Cranking Compression
Increase Effective Compression ---Decrease Effective Compression
Idle Vacuum is Reduced --------- Idle Vacuum is Increased
Idle Quality Suffers ----- -------- Idle Quality Improves
Open Valve-Overlap Increases ---- Open Valve-Overlap Decreases
Closed Valve-Overlap Increases -- Closed Valve-Overlap Decreases
Natural EGR Effect Increases ---- Natural EGR Effect is Reduced
Decreases Piston-to-Valve Clearance --- Increases Piston-to-Valve Clearance
114, smoother idle, peaks later, more for autos.
but like I said dd is all in the tune
Tighten (smaller LSA number)---- Widen (larger LSA number)
Moves Torque to Lower RPM ---- Raise Torque to Higher RPM
Increases Maximum Torque ---- Reduces Maximum Torque
Narrow Power band --- -------- Broadens Power Band
Builds Higher Cylinder Pressure ---- Reduce Maximum Cylinder Pressure
Increase Chance of Engine Knock ----Decrease Chance of Engine Knock
Increase Cranking Compression --- Decrease Cranking Compression
Increase Effective Compression ---Decrease Effective Compression
Idle Vacuum is Reduced --------- Idle Vacuum is Increased
Idle Quality Suffers ----- -------- Idle Quality Improves
Open Valve-Overlap Increases ---- Open Valve-Overlap Decreases
Closed Valve-Overlap Increases -- Closed Valve-Overlap Decreases
Natural EGR Effect Increases ---- Natural EGR Effect is Reduced
Decreases Piston-to-Valve Clearance --- Increases Piston-to-Valve Clearance
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: San Jose,CA
Yeah I like the smoother idle I think then I going with the 114 LSA. I not looking to make it into a drag car, but a car with a little kick to it. Any suggestion on what I should do or upgrade when I do get this cam?
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From: Holmes County (thats right Amish Country), OHIO
-springs
-retainers
-LS2 Timing Chain
-LS6 Oil Pump
-LS6 intake mani
-Clutch
-rear end.
Ok the last two don't really apply to what your talking I don't think.
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i have a ms3 112 in my car, its auto, and yes it will run tons better with a good tune, but i dd my car and it runs great even if its not tuned right away it will be ok you have to let it get up to temp before you put it in gear but after its up to temp it will run fine, and if your there def go with some heads if you dont you'll wish you did!
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From: San Jose,CA
Well my cars a 2001 A4 it already comes with the ls6 intake manifold. You think I'm going to need a stall converter? I was looking to port my heads or am I better off buying brand new ones, if that then what kinds do you guys prefer? I already have full exhaust but I don't have LT's I have shorty headers, Y pipe, and a flowmaster,also the slp flow pac. Cam,and ported heads plus what I have now, how much you guys think I'm going to be pushing to the wheels just an estimate. I want reach at least 400rwhp.
No matter what LSA the MS3 is on its going to lope real hard. Its a big cam for a 346 so you are most definately going to hear it. If you want a smooth idle do what your GF did and go with a 224 on a 114. Driveability is all in the tune, i daily drove my MS3 for quite awhile with no issues before i got another car.
He said he has no stall though, I had the money and called texas speed like 2 years ago ready to buy heads and cam kit for my car, they asked what stall i had and i didnt know that a stall was needed first. I ended up spending the money on a stall, building my trans and some suspension first. The stall make a world of differance. You are getting ahead of your self if you dont have all the proper bolts on's like headers and stall to start off with first. I have been told that my ss3600 stall is even to small for the ms3 cam!!!
You may want to look into a TSP228, Torquer V2 or a Vengence racing cam maybe VRX3 or VRX4 and yes Your going to need a stall. Let me ask you guys something. Here lately it's been a little cooler outside in the mourning and kinda in general. When yall put yall car in reverse and start to back up does it seem like the car's rpm will drop low when the clutch is push in and then when you go to the 1st stop sign and press in the clutch the rpm's drop and you can't really hear the car running and then it hunts for the idle for a second and then it's fine? Can someone help me with that question? An or what can cause this?
mine usually cranks right up but sometimes when its cold I got to let it warm up to max temp because it will surge. just the fun of having a cam they are a little grumpy when its cold until they get warm
I mean mines start right up but it's like when I first take off and get to the 1st stop sign or 2 and press in the clutch then the rpm's drop to about 600 or you can't hear it running then it will surge and hunt for idle for maybe 5 sec. Is this normal for a cam car? But it does seem like it only happens when and for surely happen when it got cooler out side. But this is the first cam car I've had and I notice since it's been a little cooler or cold then it does get grumpy. I have a 160 thermo.
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From: Albuquerque, N.M.
I dd an MS3, the only issue I have is when the AC is on max in the summer, I sometimes have to heel to toe it to get it to idle. Usually happens when I hit a yellow light and have to decel quickly.
What's a good size spring to use? And is it really entirely necessary to have the timing chain and oil pump replaced? I'm a noob to anything past the bolt-ons.