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04 gto m6 motor with tr230 cam LOST POWER ?? BAD CAM ?

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Old 11-23-2009, 02:22 AM
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i also just check my lift on a dial indicator on the pushrod side of the lifter and the valve side it was .212 pushrod side and .426 on valve side.. does this seem right ? this is probably not a good way to measure considering the hydro lifters.. please someone chime in .

ok i measure out my stock gto cam.

base circle measured out at 1.54
lobe height measured out at 1.83

1.83 - 1.54 = .29

.290 x 1.7 rocker ratio is .493 lift. this is close ballpark on the lobe I tested.

I don't have my cam out of car yet but from what i measured on the pushrod side is only .212... that's less then stock. I understand the lifter may not be pumped up. I hope my cam was ground correctly.


measured another valve on my tr230 cam with dial indicator came up with .316 x 1.7 = .537 lift

wonder if some of my lifters are collapsed or something. the way im going about it is probably pointless because each one i do it different and you can see the dial indicate travel backwards as lifter bleeds back

Last edited by daftdrifting; 11-23-2009 at 03:03 AM.
Old 11-23-2009, 04:38 AM
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fuuuuuuuuuu***kkkk I think I know whats wrong Im going to post a picture right now. I seen this a while ago. I dont know why I didn't mention the plug looked new !!! Could 1 cylinder not firing cause this issue.


plug on left is cyl 1 plug on right is cyl 7.

smells like gas but never been fired. the one on left smells like nothing. The plug was put in 1200 miles ago .. still looks brand new. cylinder 7 has 180 compression. Valves are opening and closing.
Old 11-23-2009, 05:20 AM
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Measure it on the edge of the lifter not in the center were it can bleed down.Sparkplugs look kinda fishy.
Old 11-23-2009, 06:00 AM
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well put it all back together put a new coil and car pulls like a damn fright train! pulls so hard as soon as i blip the gas its so responsive. damn it was running on 7 this whole time. i feel like a newb thanks everyone who helped out. btw this bad coilpack didn't throw any codes .. and yeh..
Old 11-23-2009, 06:08 AM
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Congrats on getting running right. Did the tuner turn off all misfire codes? Should have thrown a code.
Old 11-23-2009, 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by daftdrifting
well put it all back together put a new coil and car pulls like a damn fright train! pulls so hard as soon as i blip the gas its so responsive. damn it was running on 7 this whole time. i feel like a newb thanks everyone who helped out. btw this bad coilpack didn't throw any codes .. and yeh..
No offense guy but your tuner should have discovered that you were only hitting on 7 cylinders when he tuned the car.
Old 11-23-2009, 08:36 AM
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Change you oil/filter asap. Hopefully your # 7 wasn't washed and still holds full compression.
Old 11-23-2009, 09:14 AM
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I'm glad you got it figured out! There are a couple things I want to mention in case anyone else stumbles upon this thread. Thunder checks every cam they sell on a cam doctor and provides the printout in the box. The chances of getting an incorrectly ground cam are pretty slim, unless you request them to ship it directly from Comp. To answer PredatorZ's question: all three TR230 cams I have purchased were a 111+0 according to the included cam doctor printout.
Old 11-23-2009, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
Are you sure about that?
Yes, According to everything I have on that cam and years of running them on the Cam Pro, that cam is ground straight up.

To the OP:

I'm glad you solved your issue. I have a hard time with the fact that no one noticed a dead miss during the tune. I guess the fact that you said the plugs looked like brand new should have been a clue. Hopefully no long term damage has occured from the cylinder getting washed down with raw fuel for so long...

Thanks,
Shane
Old 11-23-2009, 12:06 PM
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congrats man now i really want to see this car!!!!!!
Old 11-23-2009, 01:47 PM
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wow .. I know I hope the cylinder didn't get washed either. The tuner said there was no codes going on . It was never sparking at all. The problem was I got this motorset from a crashed gto. the coil had been hit a little but wasn't cracked or anything. The impact must have shocked it and gave it some damage.

btw my cam didn't come with a cam card in the box. I know this because when I opened it I intentionally looked for it to show a friend. A local shop here has a cam doctor. I was going to get it done .. like 20 bucks.
Old 11-23-2009, 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 5.3LJimmy
I'm glad you got it figured out! There are a couple things I want to mention in case anyone else stumbles upon this thread. Thunder checks every cam they sell on a cam doctor and provides the printout in the box. The chances of getting an incorrectly ground cam are pretty slim, unless you request them to ship it directly from Comp. To answer PredatorZ's question: all three TR230 cams I have purchased were a 111+0 according to the included cam doctor printout.
Thanks for the info, I was always under the impression it was advanced +4, that is why I asked. (we all learn new things everyday ).
Being straight up makes it more imperative to degree it, it could easily install retarded.

To the OP, make sure you change oil asap. as it is probably heavily contaminated with fuel.
Old 11-23-2009, 02:42 PM
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sucks but i will. oil has 1140 miles but speedo reads 5mph to fast... anyways expensive oil change when using the German synthetic castrol.. I suppose a lot cheaper then frying the motor
Old 11-23-2009, 04:57 PM
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I just received my TR230 last Fri, my cam specs were printed on the end of the box. How do you know from the specs that it's straight up, no advance? Specs tell duration and duration at .05, lift and 111.0 LSA. Also did you finally degree the cam or were you just lucky?
Old 11-23-2009, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 99C5Coupe
I just received my TR230 last Fri, my cam specs were printed on the end of the box. How do you know from the specs that it's straight up, no advance? Specs tell duration and duration at .05, lift and 111.0 LSA. Also did you finally degree the cam or were you just lucky?
If it had advance ground in it would be LSA 111+4 or if it was retarted it would be LSA 111-4
Old 11-23-2009, 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by BaddBird
If it had advance ground in it would be LSA 111+4 or if it was retarted it would be LSA 111-4
Thanks
Old 11-23-2009, 05:51 PM
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Well I still don't understand what degreeing the cam does except let u know if it was ground correctly ? The cam gear only can go on one way with the dowel pin and the 3 cam bolts lined up correct ? I just put everything back together and changed the coil pack.
Old 11-23-2009, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by daftdrifting
Well I still don't understand what degreeing the cam does except let u know if it was ground correctly ? The cam gear only can go on one way with the dowel pin and the 3 cam bolts lined up correct ? I just put everything back together and changed the coil pack.
Degreeing the cam will tell if you need to use an adjustable timing set to install the cam at the proper specs that our on your cam card.
Old 11-23-2009, 06:58 PM
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oh ok nice. I understand.
Old 11-23-2009, 09:49 PM
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I'm glad you figured it out. Some times it's the little thing you don't notice that are the problem.

I hope you got the oil out by now. LOL. How full is it? LOL.


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