tep98ws6

I am starting my HCI swap the day after Thanksgiving and am wondering if there is anything else I should do before I pull the engine out. I've heard various things like grinding down a little **** on the head, ect and just wanted to make sure I don't over look anything.

I'm working with:
Ported 243 heads, ported LS6 oil pump, LS6 intake, 231/231 .621/.621 112* cam, ported throttle body, stock rockers, LS7 lifters, hardened push rods, Comp springs (forgot what series), titanium locks/retainers, adjustable timing set

I'm also diving into putting new stock LS1 piston rings and bearings, rehoning the cylinder walls and putting connecting rod bolts in.



Is there anything I could possibly be overlooking? I'd hate to get in there, do it and then put everything back in and then realize I forgot to do something important

kenp

iTrader: (9)

If you are going to all of that trouble, it would be worth while to get some forged pistons IMO.

Also, how did you know what length pushrods to buy? That needs to be checked and determined during the build to get it right.

Don't forget a new o ring for the oil pump.

Good luck!

tep98ws6

Thanks! I had my instructor help me with push rod length (I SUCK at working out equations) and I think I ended up buying 7.375 or 7.350 rods, but I'm not positive, I know they weren't stock length though. My oil pump came with two o-rings, an orange and a green one so I assume you are referring to those.

I considered Wisco pistons but decided against it (UNLESS of course I go in there and they are damaged, which hopefully they aren't) ... I'm attempting to do all of this work under $1750 and I'm right about at $1500 right now. I got all my parts 20% below cost thru school and all of the machining work I'm doing myself so I'm hoping, everything works out, haha.

tep98ws6

Has anyone ever replaced their wrist pins during a rebuild? Basically, I'm doing bearings, rings, "cross hatching" the cylinder walls and my instructor suggested wrist pins but I wasn't sure about them because I've never heard anyone mention them ... The bottom end is "good" up til about 700HP, correct? Any thoughts on this?

WhiteRhino

iTrader: (6)

Didn't see lifter trays listed. You should get those as well. Cheap insurance to keep a lifter from turning.

kenp

iTrader: (9)

Might want to make certain the PR length you have for the install.

Your new cam should have a smaller base circle than the oem cam and that should require a longer PR, not shorter. If your 243 heads have the Z06 valves, they are a bit taller than the generic LS1 valves. That's how GM made up for the smaller base circle of the Z06 cam, so that would help some. How much preload are you shooting for?

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

I agree on checking pushrod length. I personally used an old headgasket and used 4 bolts to hold the head down and checked them. I also bought new lifter trays for my LS7 lifters. Also, I replaced my 100k intake gasket set, fel-pro has a nice set for about $30. Here's my build thread for some inspiration

https://ls1tech.com/forums/racers-lo...ew-engine.html

Jeep09

do you need to replace your intake gaskets if you remove your intake?

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

No you don't have to but they start looking pretty flat and useless after 100k.