468CH3V3LL3

Hi everyone, I have thought about this for awhile, and i decided that i need more input! I recently purchased AFR 205's, a custom cam, and all the necessities to complete my head/cam swap. My problem is that i have a 120,000 mi. stock ls1 to work with!

Do you think it will be safe to build it with the stock bottom end? I just dont want to build it and have it blow right after I finish! I really dont want to put any dough into the stock bottom end! Do you recommend doing the head/cam swap now and hope it lasts, or wait and save up for a 347 shortblock from TSP? Thanks for all of your help!

99blancoSS

iTrader: (115)

Swap the oil pump as well and keep the oil clean and it tuned well and it should be fine.
Breaking it will depend on how hard you drive it. We've seen 200,000 + miles on factory LS1's on this board. Mine lasted 64,000 miles before cracking a ringland. I drive it like I stole it.

I'd like to put a bid in on the 347 when your ready as well. We offer/distribute only HKE engines, one of the best in the world.

468CH3V3LL3

Another reason i have considered getting a shortblock is because of the high possibility of throwing a 150 shot at it!
does 150 shot + stock bottom end = KABOOM!!?
I haven't done much research on the topic, but if my stock bottom end happens to take a s**t, is there a possibility that any of my new parts i will be putting in could be damaged?

98z8uup

iTrader: (7)

With the miles and a 150 shot on top of the H/C. You might want to the H/C and see how that goes. Then think about the 150. That just my .02 on it.

You should also do a compression test.

99blancoSS

iTrader: (115)

I might hold off on the n2o but if your planning on buying a new sb anyway then it doesn't really matter. Unless you damage the block and it cant be re-used then you've wasted the resale of the ls1 block.

468CH3V3LL3

After doing some research, i am leaning towards getting forged pistons, rods?, bearings, and rod bolts. Is all of this necessary to be able to handle the 150 shot with ease? Are the stock rods strong enough to handle the head/cam and 150 shot themselves? If so will i need to have any work done to the stock ones? Once again, your input is greatly appreciated!

SOMbitch

iTrader: (8)

The pistons are the weakpoint.....

468CH3V3LL3

So if i just get pistons, rings, and rod bolts, i will be safe? Do i have to do anything to the stock rods to accomodate the new rod bolts?

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Cheap, Fast, Reliable<-----Pick 2.

I say throw your H/C on it with some ARP rod bolts and hold off on the N2O on the aging rotating assembly. Some will disagree but thats my opinion.

99blancoSS

iTrader: (115)

I agree ^^^ People tend to spin bearings with n2o on these engines and that leads to rod's being effected. We've seen more than one rod let go and its wasn't the bolts. RPM are one thing bearing clearances are another and have not been set to accomodate the n2o.. so something seems to go on it sooner or later. BUT there are those who have no issue either. All bets are off when you mod a factory engine let alone add n2o to it.

Chevy406

iTrader: (12)

Just as a point of reference - I have 182,600 miles on my stock shortblock LS1. I started hotrodding it at 135k wiht a cam, and then AFR 205s at 153k. It recently dyno'd 467 rwhp, so even with the miles it is still pretty healthy.

King Nothing

iTrader: (9)

i'm at 164K and i'm putting a new set of 241 heads with a TR227/224 cam . . . all really comes down to how it was maintained. but i wont be puttin ARP head bolts in, i have brand new GM bolts and don't see why they wont work

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Nobody here is doubting that this can be done, but if you think a 182K modded engine is realiable well then I dont know what to tell you. I feel like the most reliable motor is a stock one. Its a price you pay when you mod to go fast. Have fun, do what you want, but be prepared to pay up when it goes amiss. Cheap,Fast,Reliable<<---pick any 2.

Reliable and Cheap, its not fast
Cheap and Fast, its not reliable
Fast and Reliable, its not cheap

468CH3V3LL3

I deffinately want to be fast and cheap, but skimping out on my build in order to stay cheap might end up costing me more in the long run. By no means do i have an infinate budget, but i would like to sacrifice some of the cheapness for more reliability. It wont be the cheapest or the most reliable, but i would like to get an even comprimise between the two.

I have pretty much made up my mind about getting pistons, rings, rods, rod bolts, and bearings. I believe i can purchase all of these parts for about $1200! I do have one question about pistons though. I was looking at Mahle FLAT-TOP pistons and it says they have a -4cc dish? Do the stock pistons have any dish at all?

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

stock LS1 pistons are flat.

Chevy406

iTrader: (12)

I have been driving my mod'd LS1 500 miles per week, and coming close to 30k miles since the head & cam swap. I certainly won't say adding another 130 rwhp doesn't stress the engine more, but it's not like I drive it WOT everywhere I go. So, I'll have my cake and eat it too.

468CH3V3LL3

If the Mahle pistons have a -4cc dish, then my compression would go down. So where can i get pistons that have no dish so i can keep my disired compression ratio?

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

well chevy406, its not all about making more power, you have to factor the human error into it too. I took every single nut and bolt out of my engine and it got put back together from the ground up. No way Im gonna go 200K with zero issues. Even though I did it right, it wasnt as good as when the motor was first put together so you cant expect the service life to be as long.