Oil pan gasket question
Oil pan gasket question Ok guys, I have a pretty bad oil leak and after looking at it, it's looking like the oil pan gasket. How hard is it to replace? I've been told it's about $300 to $400 for a shop to do it. The gasket is only $32, I'd like to tackle it myself if I can. Any tips and advice is appreciated.
Ok guys, I have a pretty bad oil leak and after looking at it, it's looking like the oil pan gasket. How hard is it to replace? I've been told it's about $300 to $400 for a shop to do it. The gasket is only $32, I'd like to tackle it myself if I can. Any tips and advice is appreciated.
It shouldn't be that bad on your car. I just had to do it on my awd truck. Just jack up the car and take a look to see if you are capable of tackling the job. Shouldn't be more than removing a crossmember, unplugging the sensor, removing the oil cooler lines, and then the pan bolts. I think you are better off doing it yourself and saving some cash. If you do do it, just remember to put a bit of silicone in the 4 corners when putting the pan back up with the new gasket and the pan has to sit flush with the rear of the block.
That works. You don't really need any special tools tho. I believe a 10mm socket with extensions, a 15mm socket, and a swivel is about all you would need.
Swivels and extensions are your friend! I believe they only get torqued down to 18lbs, so if you don't have a tq wrench, I would say a good tight would be just fine.
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^ Yeah, I do agree, but I've had a string of bad luck with trans pans leaking due to bad torque jobs..(10 years ago with my 85 Bird.) If it's not at too bad of an angle, it should be pretty accurate, but swivels can give an incorrect tq rating.. But then again, unbolting a bunch of crap and lifting the engine isn't easy either.
I really like the late model GM gaskets.. plastic and rubber pieces.. I've never had a problem with the late model stuff..
I really like the late model GM gaskets.. plastic and rubber pieces.. I've never had a problem with the late model stuff..
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Verdad Gallardo After sifting through a lot of oil leak threads, most have come to a consensus that the majority of the leaks come from the corners of the pans, and as mentioned earlier, I should throw some RTV on the corners on the install. Well my question is, before I go though the PITA going through the entire pan gasket, would it be worth it to just get under there, degrease everything really well, and try to put some sealant around those corners and see if that will stop the leak?
if you are trying to save the oil pan gasket carefull when you loosen the bolts around the pan, there are o ring seals for the bolt holes on the gasket, careful not to damage it by removing the bolt vigorously. if i am not mistaken the stock gasket is also riveted on the pan so you have to drill that out and you have to drop the pan low enough to clear the pick up tube on the front of the oil pump.
The gasket is riveted, so you have to drill them out. It isnt worth trying to save the gasket. It would suck to do all that work and stil have a leak because of reusing the old gasket. You could try to put rtv around it, but I prefer doing things the right way and advise against it. Degreasing it would help pinpoint the leak and leave a cleaner space for you to work in.
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
In order to do the pan gasket you must hold the engine up in place with an engine hoist. Then loosen/remove the motor mounts, struts, sway bar end links, steering linkage. Then hold the weight of the k member from the bottom as you remove the 6 k member bolts and lower it 8-10 inches in order to snake the pan out of the rear. Clean the block and pan and install a new gasket with silicone in the areas where it passes under the front and rear cover. Reinstall everything. You must hold the engine up from the top in order to accomplish this.
I JUST did this at my shop and without a lift, air tools, lots of swivel sockets and a tranny jack for the subframe . . . it would have been a MAJOR pain in the *** to do.
I believe AllData calls for 8-9 hrs to do this which at most shops is about 800-1,000 dollars in labor alone so if you can find a shop willing to do it for 300-400 I would take them up on that offer.
If you think you have enough mechanical skills to drop the whole front k-member and suspension/brake lines/ steering rack etc then go ahead but it is defenitly NOT something I would have attempted to do in my own garage at home with just a few hand tools and jack stands.
Also make sure you use a new gaset and rtv all 4 corners where the front and rear covers meet up with the block.
Good luck to ya if you tackle it yourself!!!
I believe AllData calls for 8-9 hrs to do this which at most shops is about 800-1,000 dollars in labor alone so if you can find a shop willing to do it for 300-400 I would take them up on that offer.
If you think you have enough mechanical skills to drop the whole front k-member and suspension/brake lines/ steering rack etc then go ahead but it is defenitly NOT something I would have attempted to do in my own garage at home with just a few hand tools and jack stands.
Also make sure you use a new gaset and rtv all 4 corners where the front and rear covers meet up with the block.
Good luck to ya if you tackle it yourself!!!
man i just paid a shop 550 to install oil pan gasket and motor mounts was a pain in the ****, mine started leaking after cam swap and i was all burnt out after swap too fool with it, its all personal preference tho gl either way.......... and dont just drop the pan a little and put a shitload of rtv around it like i did rtv isnt a gasket
Its not that bad, i did a whole pan with gasket already installed because my pan was cracked. I actually jacked my motor up and held it in place with my strut tower brace and a solid peice of 2" round stock just in case(dont remember the length). I dont remember taking the end links or steering linkage apart, but you will need to drop the starter, and k member, and take the bolt out of your motor mounts. Wasnt that hard actually. Make sure you support the trans as well.
Its not that bad, i did a whole pan with gasket already installed because my pan was cracked. I actually jacked my motor up and held it in place with my strut tower brace and a solid peice of 2" round stock just in case(dont remember the length). I dont remember taking the end links or steering linkage apart, but you will need to drop the starter, and k member, and take the bolt out of your motor mounts. Wasnt that hard actually. Make sure you support the trans as well.
I don't enjoy oilpan gaskets... That is one thing that i will always have a shop do... The best part about it is, if it leaks when they get through with it, have them redo it.
