Break in procedure/oil for new LS6 crate engine
Break in procedure/oil for new LS6 crate engine My new Ls6 crate engine is just about ready to go in my 98 WS6. 
Which oil should I use? Was told to use either Joe Gibbs or Redline break in oil but the stuffs like $7.50 a quart whereas some regular Mobil oil is $12 for 5 qts. Will it really make a difference If I go with the expensive stuff and how long to change and how long until I use synthetic is good?
Baby it or drive it like I stole it first couple thousand miles...heard different things?
Which oil should I use? Was told to use either Joe Gibbs or Redline break in oil but the stuffs like $7.50 a quart whereas some regular Mobil oil is $12 for 5 qts. Will it really make a difference If I go with the expensive stuff and how long to change and how long until I use synthetic is good?
Baby it or drive it like I stole it first couple thousand miles...heard different things?
For the oil, I would definantly use a high zinc type oil (break in oil), it helps the rings seal better. After the first 150 miles of babying the car I would do an oil change and put regular oil in it. If it were me personally and it being a daily driver I wouldnt be rough on it for at least the first 150 miles. If it was an all out drag car on the dyno then yeah, 3 runs on the dyno to break it in and your good to go.
The break in oil would be good I'm sure. If you don't use that, some reg old conventional Valvoline would be fine.
I would do neither of the break in methods you mentioned. Instead, I would do somewhere in between. Don't just beat the **** outta it, but get on it enough to get some cylinder pressure to seat the rings. Don't lug it around, but don't hold it at wot for a top speed run either.
I would do neither of the break in methods you mentioned. Instead, I would do somewhere in between. Don't just beat the **** outta it, but get on it enough to get some cylinder pressure to seat the rings. Don't lug it around, but don't hold it at wot for a top speed run either.
Ok then I will get some break in oil first and what about after initial startup, I was told to let it idle for about 45 minutes before I drive it giving it various loads and redlining it?
TECH Addict
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,907
Likes: 1
From: Bergen County, NJ
You want to accomplish two things during break in - seat the rings and break in the bearings. For the rings - you want cylinder pressure while they're new and sharp so during the first 50 miles especially - give it strong and even (a little gradual) 3/4 throttle runs up to 4000 to 4500 rpm frequently, and in the the higher gears give it 3/4 throttle frequently for a few seconds at a time as long as you're above 2000 rpm. Like stated above - don't lug it. For the bearings, you want them polished through the RPM range to wear them evenly all around - so operate the engine through the range - just don't over rev it, stay away from the redline. After the first 50, drive it more normal but do the same things, just don't worry about doing it as often. Drive it that way for 500 then change the oil. The have fun.
Don't let it idle for 45 mins! And don't be revving it up while in neutral with no load! Wow, where did that info come from?
Start it up and let it run long enough to check for leaks and all that and then hop in and take off. I would drive it like you normally do a car that's not up to temp yet, which isn't beating on it. It won't take long to get it warmed up, and then commence the break in procedures you have decided on.
Start it up and let it run long enough to check for leaks and all that and then hop in and take off. I would drive it like you normally do a car that's not up to temp yet, which isn't beating on it. It won't take long to get it warmed up, and then commence the break in procedures you have decided on.
Don't let it idle for 45 mins! And don't be revving it up while in neutral with no load! Wow, where did that info come from?
Start it up and let it run long enough to check for leaks and all that and then hop in and take off. I would drive it like you normally do a car that's not up to temp yet, which isn't beating on it. It won't take long to get it warmed up, and then commence the break in procedures you have decided on.
Start it up and let it run long enough to check for leaks and all that and then hop in and take off. I would drive it like you normally do a car that's not up to temp yet, which isn't beating on it. It won't take long to get it warmed up, and then commence the break in procedures you have decided on.
I was told by someone from the company I bought the engine from to run it with break in oil for about 45 minutes at idle giving it various loads then change the oil and filter to regular 5w30 and drive it.
Trending Topics
on a street engine...i doubt anything shy of the extremes would be just fine.
i know when breaking in various outboard motors (boats) they say to vary the rpms over the range, avoiding real high rpms, and not keeping one rpm for real long (few mins).
i think they say to do that for 10 or 15hrs....which would be like the 50-150miles on a car.
i know when breaking in various outboard motors (boats) they say to vary the rpms over the range, avoiding real high rpms, and not keeping one rpm for real long (few mins).
i think they say to do that for 10 or 15hrs....which would be like the 50-150miles on a car.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
You want to accomplish two things during break in - seat the rings and break in the bearings. For the rings - you want cylinder pressure while they're new and sharp so during the first 50 miles especially - give it strong and even (a little gradual) 3/4 throttle runs up to 4000 to 4500 rpm frequently, and in the the higher gears give it 3/4 throttle frequently for a few seconds at a time as long as you're above 2000 rpm. Like stated above - don't lug it. For the bearings, you want them polished through the RPM range to wear them evenly all around - so operate the engine through the range - just don't over rev it, stay away from the redline. After the first 50, drive it more normal but do the same things, just don't worry about doing it as often. Drive it that way for 500 then change the oil. The have fun.
After the 500 mile stuff is done, beat the living **** out of it. It'll make more power later.
Just some food for thought. All these cars you all own, did you think they were broken in properly when they were being test driven at the dealerships? Hell no. Those cars were strung out to 6K on every test drive. Something to think about.
i always wondered about cars with 0.5 miles on them...basically out of the factory, on the truck and off the truck.
and nobody ever mentions any break in.
then again most people probably baby their car for a few hundred miles...so that serves and the break-in
and nobody ever mentions any break in.
then again most people probably baby their car for a few hundred miles...so that serves and the break-in
Engine Break in Theory
Read this thread for details - you are getting good advice here about loading the rings to break in the engine. For the most part, there is no break-in for bearings. If the bearings are not supporting the crank/cam/rod on a film of oil, you will have problems very soon.
This is absolutely correct for a flat tappet camshaft. These are largely splash lubed by the reciprocating assembly, and varying the RPM's ensures that different areas are adequately lubricated during the crucial cam break-in. For a hydraulic roller, skip those varying revs, drive it easy until you reach operating temperature, then start putting the pedal down to load those rings!
IMO, the break-in oils are great if you have the money, but are overkill on a hydraulic roller cam. I would use quality dino (not synthetic!) oil for the first 200 miles, dump it and run dino again for the next 800 miles, then switch to the synthetic oil of your choice.
Good luck with your new engine!
Read this thread for details - you are getting good advice here about loading the rings to break in the engine. For the most part, there is no break-in for bearings. If the bearings are not supporting the crank/cam/rod on a film of oil, you will have problems very soon.
IMO, the break-in oils are great if you have the money, but are overkill on a hydraulic roller cam. I would use quality dino (not synthetic!) oil for the first 200 miles, dump it and run dino again for the next 800 miles, then switch to the synthetic oil of your choice.
Good luck with your new engine!
Engine Break in Theory
Read this thread for details - you are getting good advice here about loading the rings to break in the engine. For the most part, there is no break-in for bearings. If the bearings are not supporting the crank/cam/rod on a film of oil, you will have problems very soon.
This is absolutely correct for a flat tappet camshaft. These are largely splash lubed by the reciprocating assembly, and varying the RPM's ensures that different areas are adequately lubricated during the crucial cam break-in. For a hydraulic roller, skip those varying revs, drive it easy until you reach operating temperature, then start putting the pedal down to load those rings!
IMO, the break-in oils are great if you have the money, but are overkill on a hydraulic roller cam. I would use quality dino (not synthetic!) oil for the first 200 miles, dump it and run dino again for the next 800 miles, then switch to the synthetic oil of your choice.
Good luck with your new engine!
Read this thread for details - you are getting good advice here about loading the rings to break in the engine. For the most part, there is no break-in for bearings. If the bearings are not supporting the crank/cam/rod on a film of oil, you will have problems very soon.
This is absolutely correct for a flat tappet camshaft. These are largely splash lubed by the reciprocating assembly, and varying the RPM's ensures that different areas are adequately lubricated during the crucial cam break-in. For a hydraulic roller, skip those varying revs, drive it easy until you reach operating temperature, then start putting the pedal down to load those rings!
IMO, the break-in oils are great if you have the money, but are overkill on a hydraulic roller cam. I would use quality dino (not synthetic!) oil for the first 200 miles, dump it and run dino again for the next 800 miles, then switch to the synthetic oil of your choice.
Good luck with your new engine!
Well it was all moot anyway...the original shop I took my car to had it 3 months and after paying them $150 more(they wanted $1000 more) then they originally quoted me 
I had it towed out of there because they couldn't fix the problem of it having no oil pressure and were blaming the "bad motor" I had bought brand new from Scoggin Dickey. They told me they put break in oil in charged me for it and I never saw a receipt or bottle. I had the car towed to Next Level Performance and after they dropped the pan found the pickup tube was installed incorrectly and the windage tray which I told them to swap never was. They also never cleaned the oil pan out which was loaded with metal shavings from my old motor with a spun bearing and Regular 1040 wound up going in it at Next Level among various other mistakes they made like incorrectly installing the intake manifold on top of LS1 coolant tubes and parts I had bought like a fuel filter and oil level sensor not being changed. All in all it was one HUGE and co$tly mistake taking it to the first shop.
I had it towed out of there because they couldn't fix the problem of it having no oil pressure and were blaming the "bad motor" I had bought brand new from Scoggin Dickey. They told me they put break in oil in charged me for it and I never saw a receipt or bottle. I had the car towed to Next Level Performance and after they dropped the pan found the pickup tube was installed incorrectly and the windage tray which I told them to swap never was. They also never cleaned the oil pan out which was loaded with metal shavings from my old motor with a spun bearing and Regular 1040 wound up going in it at Next Level among various other mistakes they made like incorrectly installing the intake manifold on top of LS1 coolant tubes and parts I had bought like a fuel filter and oil level sensor not being changed. All in all it was one HUGE and co$tly mistake taking it to the first shop.
an excellent read at this link
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
this guy knows his stuff...
follow this and your engine will eat less oil and will last longer.
and use break in oil for at least the first 500 miles... change it at 20miles, 50 miles, 100 miles, and 250 miles...
after 500 you can change to regular oil..no synthetics
dont change to synthetic until you get up to 10,000 or 15,000 miles...minimum
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
this guy knows his stuff...
follow this and your engine will eat less oil and will last longer.
and use break in oil for at least the first 500 miles... change it at 20miles, 50 miles, 100 miles, and 250 miles...
after 500 you can change to regular oil..no synthetics
dont change to synthetic until you get up to 10,000 or 15,000 miles...minimum
I followed the above procedure almost to the T in 2005. Engine has about 12K on it now and is running very strong. Never uses a drop of oil. The motor is a 2002 LS6 shortblock with AFR 205 heads ,an Ed Curtis custom cam and a mamofied FAST 90.
