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Arp rod bolt replacement ?

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Old Dec 3, 2009 | 03:33 PM
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Default Arp rod bolt replacement ?

i have a 2003 lq4 6.0 i'm putting my stang .. and i want to replace the rod bolts with arp's... but not get into a rebuild motor looks good , just want to have the sercurity they are there .. if doing so.. what is the proper way of doing this ? take out 1 bolt at a time then tourque them together ? not to distrub the rod caps , or if i wanted to check the rod bearings for wear .. would this open a can of worms ? ...
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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 08:26 AM
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anyone have the correct answers
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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 08:50 AM
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i believe one bolt at a time is the "proper" way to do it.

checking the bearings would probably require a much more intensive process. and if you'e going THAT far...may as well replace the bearings.
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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 09:30 AM
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From what I understand the factory bolts from 1999 on were supposed to be good up to about 450hp. The faster you spin it the more likely they will fail. If you arent going to spin it up I wouldn't replace them. Their is a guy on TeamChevelle with a stang transplant that runs 10.50's with a l92 head/cam swap, and I don't think he changed anything internally.
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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 11:11 AM
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well ALOT of guys are running the stock bolts....97/98 or newer.

doesn't mean it won't be peace of mind to replace them.

with the motor out it should be no problem at all. flip it over, remove the pan and swap one at a time.
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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 11:28 AM
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Take a look at Katech, they have some nice replacement rodbolts.
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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 12:04 PM
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And expensive......Just swap the ARPs however you want and follow torque procedure. The caps cant misalign bc they fit together like a puzzle piece.
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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 10:56 PM
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I would personally crack them both loose and then swap one out at a time if you arn't doing bearings. You want to torque them evenly.
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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 07:10 AM
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It seems hit or miss, SOMETIMES the arp rod bolt pull the big end of the rod out of round. which will very quickly spin a rod bearing. The proper way to do rod bolts on LS's is to remove the rod install the bolts and hone the big end so that it is perfectly round. The stock caps are cracked so you can't miss align them so weather or not you do 1 bolt at a time or 2 at a time that won't affect weather or not the big end is still in spec as far as roundness goes. unless you are going to spin it hard or spray it often I'd leave the stock bolts in there
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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by 1fastkingcab
unless you are going to spin it hard or spray it often I'd leave the stock bolts in there
my motor should make 525-540 N/A fwhp , and i'm going to spray a 150 shot so the motor will see over 600fwhp .
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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 02:46 PM
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convert to front wheel drive whats all this FWHP talk
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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 03:04 PM
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the reason for the one at a time deal is some are carelees or just dont know

the ls has a cracked cap rod. witch means you have to get the cap reseasted in the fractures when it was cracked apart and sized. not that hard just need to mke sure it is right doing 1 at a time takes this out of play

these rods are less likely to go out of round than the old school rods just due to that.

change them and be done. or if it is 2000 or newer and you dont spin over 7k leave them alone

rod bolts and rwhp have nothing to do with each other there is as much bad info on this site as good.

rod bolts keep the rod hooked to the crank while letting off under power the rod is being mashed onto the crank. at that point the bolts dont matter just show the lack of understanding most have
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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 04:38 PM
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flywheel horse power (fwhp)....duh
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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 05:00 PM
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RPM and Heavy recipricating parts is what Kills Rod Bolts fwiw, HP doesn't sqat But usually Horsepower and RPM come hand in Hand so many think its horsepower killing r-bolts but That is incorrect its the RPM
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by quick346
the reason for the one at a time deal is some are carelees or just dont know

the ls has a cracked cap rod. witch means you have to get the cap reseasted in the fractures when it was cracked apart and sized. not that hard just need to mke sure it is right doing 1 at a time takes this out of play

these rods are less likely to go out of round than the old school rods just due to that.

change them and be done. or if it is 2000 or newer and you dont spin over 7k leave them alone

rod bolts and rwhp have nothing to do with each other there is as much bad info on this site as good.

rod bolts keep the rod hooked to the crank while letting off under power the rod is being mashed onto the crank. at that point the bolts dont matter just show the lack of understanding most have
I think you are confusing cap location with bore distortion. The ARP bolts are strong enough to distort the bore especially the relatively weak stock cap so it becomes out of round. The cracked cap merely locates the cap in a small way like a dowel would, but like a dowel will not keep it from being compressed out of round. Just follow the ARP torque instruction to the letter. I would consider a new set of rods though if you are gonna push that much. Rod bolts won't make the rod any stronger.
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 1fastkingcab
It seems hit or miss, SOMETIMES the arp rod bolt pull the big end of the rod out of round. which will very quickly spin a rod bearing. The proper way to do rod bolts on LS's is to remove the rod install the bolts and hone the big end so that it is perfectly round. The stock caps are cracked so you can't miss align them so weather or not you do 1 bolt at a time or 2 at a time that won't affect weather or not the big end is still in spec as far as roundness goes. unless you are going to spin it hard or spray it often I'd leave the stock bolts in there
This is correct, I wasnt sure and called ARP and they told me the same thing, the only replacement bolt that is as stong as the ARP ones are the Katech rod bolts, and they will not distort the rod. A little expensive but well worth it. So that is what I purchased and installed. Very happy and they are also reusable.
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by quick346
the reason for the one at a time deal is some are carelees or just dont know

the ls has a cracked cap rod. witch means you have to get the cap reseasted in the fractures when it was cracked apart and sized. not that hard just need to mke sure it is right doing 1 at a time takes this out of play

these rods are less likely to go out of round than the old school rods just due to that.

change them and be done. or if it is 2000 or newer and you dont spin over 7k leave them alone

rod bolts and rwhp have nothing to do with each other there is as much bad info on this site as good.

rod bolts keep the rod hooked to the crank while letting off under power the rod is being mashed onto the crank. at that point the bolts dont matter just show the lack of understanding most have
stay under 7k? mine let loose shifting at 6400. and was only about 450 fwhp, id stay under 6200 if his motor will see over 600 fwhp. just mho
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by berlin 83
convert to front wheel drive whats all this FWHP talk
Originally Posted by Dickie-311
flywheel horse power (fwhp)....duh
Zing!
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