Dipstick broken off in block
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From: Readsboro, VT
Dipstick broken off in block I've got an LQ9 that I'm going to build. I was unable to pull the dipstick out during teardown, and wound up breaking it off almost flush with the block. I pulled the oil pan off today, and had similar problems. I pounded on it with a hammer and it wouldn't budge. I tried to twist it with vice grips and that didn't work. I hit it with a punch and wound up breaking it about an inch away from the block.
So.. I'll leave it like it is until I pull the rotating assembly, but once I do that, does anybody have a suggestion for the best way to get the remains of this POS out of the block?
Is it common for these things to be so tight in the block? I never encountered a problem like this with a regular SBC.
So.. I'll leave it like it is until I pull the rotating assembly, but once I do that, does anybody have a suggestion for the best way to get the remains of this POS out of the block?
Is it common for these things to be so tight in the block? I never encountered a problem like this with a regular SBC.
I also had a similar problem, but I was able to bash it out from the inside out. Are you getting any machine work done on the block? If you are, let them deal with it. Otherwise Fluid Film the snot out of it and get a punch just the right size.
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From: Readsboro, VT
I'll give the penetrant a try. Here are pictures for your viewing pleasure. 
Dipstick inside block when I started:
pounding on it with a hammer didn't work, so I busted out the punch. That didn't work, and eventually I managed to break the dipstick tube:
another view:
outside the block:
Dipstick inside block when I started:
pounding on it with a hammer didn't work, so I busted out the punch. That didn't work, and eventually I managed to break the dipstick tube:
another view:
outside the block:
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Get a cutoff wheel and cut it flush, then get a punch just the right size and convince it to leave! If that doesn't work, take it to a machine shop and have them drill it out.
You need to get someone to measure the hole and turn down a peice of steel and put a lil shoulder on it to go inside the tube but still fit in the bore and just knock it out with a hammer. That way you dont mess up the bore of tube... Goodluck and a lil wd40 or PB blaster wouldnt hurt..
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From: Readsboro, VT
To be honest, I thought the inside of the motor looked pretty good. The only reason I'm doing a rebuild at all is because I found out that it had 130k on it, not the 62k that the salvage yard said.
Try a torch. You can get one for ~$20 at Lowe's or Home Depot. Heat up the tube and the entire area around the tube really well. The the expansion of the two metals should break any kind of bond that they have together (rust etc), or if there is loctite or something similar in there. Let it cool for a couple minutes, then hit it with WD-40. If that doesn't work, you may have to drill that sucker out!
