printmanjackson

iTrader: (1)

is everyone doing a head change using the aftermarket bolts screwing up their engines?

KCS

iTrader: (20)

Yes, exactly. I don't know that the ARP's require more force, since the methods are different (angle vs. ft-lbs), but it does have an effect on the bore. The main studs even have an effect on the bore as well.

I wouldn't say they are "screwing up" their engines, but it's not something I would do to my engine. I don't know what the overall effect is on the engine's performance, but I have seen the effect on the engine itself.

Pavetim

iTrader: (15)

yeah I agree i don't really think it screws an engine up but it might distors the bore just enough to effect sealing of the rings, and might burn abit of oil. Now the best way is to have the cylinders hones or bored with the arp bolts, and torque plates. That would solve any of the problems.

cutlass_455

iTrader: (2)

I just dont want to have to buy a new set of bolts everytime I pull a head, or balancer. Buy the good stuff once, and be done with it is the way I see it.

printmanjackson

iTrader: (1)

I find it hard to believe that GM would spend millions in the design of the LS engine and use bolts that are not good stuff

Pavetim

iTrader: (15)

I don't know of the material differences but the gm bolts you can buy from summit are chromoly, the arp says there chromoly too. Not sure if they are different grades or not though. On a stock motor or slightly modified i'd be fine with gm bolts, and am going to use them. But if your pushing lots of hp you would need the studs. I don't think you absoultely have too, but you should have it plate bored/honed with the studs if you use the. It's probably not something your going to notice but there is a chance you will hurt the sealing of the rings abit. Believe me though if I had the money i'd have the studs too, they are nice but pricey.

427

iTrader: (3)

The ARP bolts or studs will produce a different clamp load than the factory fastener, but should not cause a problem on a stock engine as they are not torque plate honed at the factory except for the LS7 engine and seem to live well. My daily driver pick up has factory bolts and gaskets, they were used with a torque plate when it was honed .005 over new. It has 100,000 miles on it now and still runs fine although it sounds a bit like a diesel. It made 900hp at the flywheel when tested new and has run 11.4X on the stock head bolts at 5500 pounds with no problems. The studs would provide better clamp load if used properly, but would see the highest gains with torque angle clamping and a torque plate hone in my opinion.

Kurt

King Nothing

iTrader: (9)

aim is KingNothing2001 nick!
from what i've been told and read, reverse splits work more off the exhaust than the intake side, more free flowing exhaust the more power so my true duals will work almost if not close to as good as cut-outs since it's a straight shot out, no catback and bends. your supposed to have the set of heads in mind before you pick the cam i tried to ask it the other way around and i got NO help lol oh well, stock heads will work fine with the cam and when i go with the larger reverse split cam i'll have the exhaust ported a bit if i can


and thank you everyone for your input on the bolts! when i do the next cam i'll have the motor pulled and totally checked out and go with ARP studs most likely

cutlass_455

iTrader: (2)

I didnt say the bolts werent good, but they arent as strong as ARP and therefore require discarding after one use.

Obviously the OE ones are strong enough for one usage, but thats it. As hot rodders, we are in the business of modding and modding requires me to be efficient and buying a new set of head bolts everytime I pull a head isnt efficient....especially being in Canada where the prices we pay at the dealership are astronomical.

tom falco

Here is the story on TTY or degree stretch bolts. TTY bolts are one time only PERIOD. Bolts have 4 phases. Elastic-PLASTIC-YIELD POINT-AND SHEER. If a bolt is tightened to elastic(stretch) it can be reused because it returns back to its original state. Plastic. Once a bolt is at its plastic state it can not be reused. Yield is in between elastic and plastic. Hence the TTY bolt. Then you have the sheer phase. The bolt is done it breaks or stretches beyond use. TTY bolts are very good because they dont depend on friction to meet the mid elastic to plastic point. That is why they are used in prodution. There is no outside interference between bolt stretch and friction. TTY bolts are one time only and they work extreamly well. If you dont have an extreamly accurate torque wrench. That is constantly being checked for accuracy use TTY bolts. 90% of the torque wrenches i have tested are out of cal by 20-25%
TTY bolts really do not need an accurate torque wrench. They are degree tightened. Hope this HELPS TOM

King Nothing

iTrader: (9)

thank you tom for the good info

tom falco

My Pleasure KING glad to help. By the way nice ride. 2000 SS

King Nothing

iTrader: (9)

thank you! never would guess i have 167K on her huh? lol

209ryder

iTrader: (2)

get long tubes jack *** !!!

tom falco

Long tubes WAY TO GO.

King Nothing

iTrader: (9)

yes i know nick lol