why arp . . .
So what you are saying is when you change from the TTY bolts to ARP bolts or studs that the new fastners are able to put so much more pressure on the block therefore this added stress distorts the cylinders. That would mean the ARP fastners reguire more force than the TTY bolts?
I wouldn't say they are "screwing up" their engines, but it's not something I would do to my engine. I don't know what the overall effect is on the engine's performance, but I have seen the effect on the engine itself.
yeah I agree i don't really think it screws an engine up but it might distors the bore just enough to effect sealing of the rings, and might burn abit of oil. Now the best way is to have the cylinders hones or bored with the arp bolts, and torque plates. That would solve any of the problems.
I find it hard to believe that GM would spend millions in the design of the LS engine and use bolts that are not good stuff
I don't know of the material differences but the gm bolts you can buy from summit are chromoly, the arp says there chromoly too. Not sure if they are different grades or not though. On a stock motor or slightly modified i'd be fine with gm bolts, and am going to use them. But if your pushing lots of hp you would need the studs. I don't think you absoultely have too, but you should have it plate bored/honed with the studs if you use the. It's probably not something your going to notice but there is a chance you will hurt the sealing of the rings abit. Believe me though if I had the money i'd have the studs too, they are nice but pricey.
The ARP bolts or studs will produce a different clamp load than the factory fastener, but should not cause a problem on a stock engine as they are not torque plate honed at the factory except for the LS7 engine and seem to live well. My daily driver pick up has factory bolts and gaskets, they were used with a torque plate when it was honed .005 over new. It has 100,000 miles on it now and still runs fine although it sounds a bit like a diesel. It made 900hp at the flywheel when tested new and has run 11.4X on the stock head bolts at 5500 pounds with no problems. The studs would provide better clamp load if used properly, but would see the highest gains with torque angle clamping and a torque plate hone in my opinion.
Kurt
Kurt
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,768
Likes: 26
From: Central Valley
from what i've been told and read, reverse splits work more off the exhaust than the intake side, more free flowing exhaust the more power so my true duals will work almost if not close to as good as cut-outs since it's a straight shot out, no catback and bends. your supposed to have the set of heads in mind before you pick the cam i tried to ask it the other way around and i got NO help lol oh well, stock heads will work fine with the cam and when i go with the larger reverse split cam i'll have the exhaust ported a bit if i can
and thank you everyone for your input on the bolts! when i do the next cam i'll have the motor pulled and totally checked out and go with ARP studs most likely
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Verdad Gallardo Obviously the OE ones are strong enough for one usage, but thats it. As hot rodders, we are in the business of modding and modding requires me to be efficient and buying a new set of head bolts everytime I pull a head isnt efficient....especially being in Canada where the prices we pay at the dealership are astronomical.
Launching!
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 268
Likes: 1
i tried using the search button but the only threads that pertained a little bit to what i'm wondering. i'm doing my H/C swap this month and i have brand new gm head bolts and wanted to make sure thats ok to use. the thread i keeping finding are people with 6.0 blocks, big *** cam and head set-ups i'm only putting on 241 heads with a tr227/224 cam can someone explain the benefit of the ARP head studs please?
John
John
TTY bolts really do not need an accurate torque wrench. They are degree tightened. Hope this HELPS TOM
