LQ9 Stroker options?
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 529
Likes: 0
From: Readsboro, VT
LQ9 Stroker options? I've decided to bite the bullet and stroke my LQ9 instead of doing a rebuild with the stock crank rods & pistons. I think. Anyway, there seems to be a million and 4 options out there for rotating assemblies.
My goals here are for 500 RWHP provided I can achieve it with a good idle and the ability to use 6th gear at speeds under mach 2. If the general consensus is that I can't get 500RWHP and good table manners, then I'll consider a smaller cam that gives me less hp.
Car is an 85 IROC. I'll be using a T56 of some sort. Planning on LS3 heads, LS3 intake, long tube headers, custom cam, custom tune. I want as much compression as I can safely run with pump gas (92), and I just may decide to hit it with a 150 shot at the track, so I'd like the motor to be able to safely handle that, even if it's not specifically built with nitrous as a priority.
My hope is that since I can still see the cross-hatch pattern on the cylinder walls, I'll be able to get away with a minimum overbore... just hone to 4.005 I hope.
So... any suggestions on a rotating assembly? Everybody and their neighbor sells stroker assemblies now, and I really can't help but wonder if some are worth the added expense over others. I've been looking at the entry-level stuff, like the Eagle, Compstar, etc.
4" vs 4.1" stroke? One brand vs. another? Pistons, rings, etc? What should I be looking at here? I'd really like to keep my rotating assembly at $2k or under unless there's a compelling reason why I should spend more.
Thanks for the advice.
My goals here are for 500 RWHP provided I can achieve it with a good idle and the ability to use 6th gear at speeds under mach 2. If the general consensus is that I can't get 500RWHP and good table manners, then I'll consider a smaller cam that gives me less hp.
Car is an 85 IROC. I'll be using a T56 of some sort. Planning on LS3 heads, LS3 intake, long tube headers, custom cam, custom tune. I want as much compression as I can safely run with pump gas (92), and I just may decide to hit it with a 150 shot at the track, so I'd like the motor to be able to safely handle that, even if it's not specifically built with nitrous as a priority.
My hope is that since I can still see the cross-hatch pattern on the cylinder walls, I'll be able to get away with a minimum overbore... just hone to 4.005 I hope.
So... any suggestions on a rotating assembly? Everybody and their neighbor sells stroker assemblies now, and I really can't help but wonder if some are worth the added expense over others. I've been looking at the entry-level stuff, like the Eagle, Compstar, etc.
4" vs 4.1" stroke? One brand vs. another? Pistons, rings, etc? What should I be looking at here? I'd really like to keep my rotating assembly at $2k or under unless there's a compelling reason why I should spend more.
Thanks for the advice.
i built a cast piston 375ci out of a lq4 and made 490rw with unported but upgraded 243 heads, ls6 intake and sd tune.
imo spend ur $ on the heads, valvetrain and tune. insted of stroker.
50k miles on motor and have ran 150-200 dose countless times.
imo spend ur $ on the heads, valvetrain and tune. insted of stroker.
50k miles on motor and have ran 150-200 dose countless times.
4.005 bore would be fine. I'd stick to the 4.00" stroke if you plan to spray it. The 4.10" has a higher wrist pin placement and the ring lands are a weak point in pistons made for the longer stroke.
Some people will have varying opinions on my next comment, but bottom ends, don't make a lot of difference to overall horsepower (unless you spring for aluminum rods and ultra-lightweight stuff). The top end is where the power is. Compstar, K1, Scat, and Eagle all make rotating assemblies that are easy on the wallet and plenty strong enough for 95% of people's builds.
Most any forged piston setup will be able to handle a 150 shot. Hell, hypereutectics can handle a 150 shot. Forged pistons can handle 150-300 in most cases without an issue.
I don't think you'll have any problem hitting 500hp with a manual car and a re;atively high compression motor. Around 11.5:1 is a good number to shoot for on 92 Octane.
Good luck with your build !
Some people will have varying opinions on my next comment, but bottom ends, don't make a lot of difference to overall horsepower (unless you spring for aluminum rods and ultra-lightweight stuff). The top end is where the power is. Compstar, K1, Scat, and Eagle all make rotating assemblies that are easy on the wallet and plenty strong enough for 95% of people's builds.
Most any forged piston setup will be able to handle a 150 shot. Hell, hypereutectics can handle a 150 shot. Forged pistons can handle 150-300 in most cases without an issue.
I don't think you'll have any problem hitting 500hp with a manual car and a re;atively high compression motor. Around 11.5:1 is a good number to shoot for on 92 Octane.
Good luck with your build !
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 529
Likes: 0
From: Readsboro, VT
Thanks for the info. Anybody have opinions on what brand of bottom-end parts to look at? Everybody seams to have an "entry level" line of rotating assembly parts, and I don't seem to see a heck of a lot of information that's helping me decide what brands to consider or avoid.
Not having a lot of luck with replies I see.
I have a K1 4.00" crank, eagle 6.125" rods, and wiseco -8cc 4.030" bore pistons. I couldn't be happier all the way around. I put my rotating assembly together myself from various places. The crank was new from an online vendor, the rods were used from a guy on LS1GTO.com, and the pistons were second hand, but still new in box from Beaflag von Rathburg on here.....I ended up buying clevite main, rod, and cam bearings, and wiseco file fit rings.
I have a K1 4.00" crank, eagle 6.125" rods, and wiseco -8cc 4.030" bore pistons. I couldn't be happier all the way around. I put my rotating assembly together myself from various places. The crank was new from an online vendor, the rods were used from a guy on LS1GTO.com, and the pistons were second hand, but still new in box from Beaflag von Rathburg on here.....I ended up buying clevite main, rod, and cam bearings, and wiseco file fit rings.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 529
Likes: 0
From: Readsboro, VT
I've thought about going piece by piece like that, but unless I can get real lucky on a couple parts, I'm not sure it'll save me money. Plus, with the luck I've had buying stuff from the ls1tech classifieds so far, I'm not sure I want to take a chance on internal parts. So far I really only have seen a few places that offer balanced rotating assemblies, and so far everything I price is coming in at 2300-2500. But scat, eagle, compstar, etc? What makes one better than the other, or are they all the same at this price? What about pistons? Mahle, Weisco, Diamond, etc?
About all I know for sure is that I need a piston with valve reliefs that will work with LS3 heads.
About all I know for sure is that I need a piston with valve reliefs that will work with LS3 heads.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
I will be doing a LQ4/415 stroker with a Callie Magnum 4.125 crank, Callie 6.125 rods, and custom Wisco pistons. For the top end, I will be going with a FAST 92mm TB, LS3 intake, L92 heads, MS4 cam and Patriot Gold kit. Other parts, Cyolt Hex Adjust timing set, Milodon HI-V pump, ARP fasteners, PaceSetters LT, TSP ORY, MWC Fab 9'' w. 4.11's.
Gl with your build!!!
DM
Gl with your build!!!
DM
Try calling one of the board sponcers, like TSP, and see what they can have for stroker kits. You may find that you can buy a short block almost as cheap as you can build one if you place any value on your own time and labor. Here is a good example.
http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item...id=46&catid=28
http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item...id=46&catid=28
For what its worth...you'll save a lot more buying the rotating assembly piece by piece. The last 3 408's Ive put together, Ive got crank,rods, pistons, rings and bearings for around $1700-$1800(new, brand name parts). Some vendors might have a sale on a certain piston or rod, that could save you $100-200. Same way with cranks,rings and so on. Just determine your heads/power adder, then select pistons accordingly. Most all your rods and cranks are made in china now so...one is just as good as the other. You should have no problems putting 500 rwhp to the ground. It will be pretty nasty in a 3300 lb. 3rd gen body
If you have any questions, shoot me a pm, and I'll direct you to some wholesale type vendors.
On The Tree
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 147
Likes: 0
From: boaring place where theres more cows than people
ive been wondering the same thing where can i find the different lq9 forged rotating assemplys my block was bored 40 over by the previous owner so im keeping my options open anyhelp would be good sry to jack ure thread
