upgrade valvesprings or not?
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Launching!
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upgrade valvesprings or not? my car is a bolt on car with 56000 miles on it and it will remain a bolt on only car for the time i own it. i want to replace the pushrods with harden ones for a piece of mind and figured while i'm there to replace the springs to the ls6 valves springs because obviousley over time and high revs they become soft or should i leave it alone
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The stock valve springs are marginal at best. I would do the PAC's as well, but I would do the 1518's only because the additional surface treatments will extend their life.
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Launching!
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From: Lantz, Nova Scotia, Canada
i read a while back that the stockers get soft after some time at the track, high reving and will give valve float past 5500. now i would like to go past 5500rpms and still have a stable valvetrain. the pacs are really good springs but since there a stiff spring wouldn't they be better for higher lift cams and not stock cams, i'm i wrong
If you had 156,000 miles, sure. At 56,000 miles you're wasting your time/money to make you feel better. Stock springs are fine with the stock cam. I take 150-200K LS1's apart all the time that are on the stock valvetrain components.
You're also not doing your car any favors installing hardened pushrods. You'll just be putting yourself 1 step closer to bending valves on a mis shift, instead of bending a cheap/easy to fix pushrod.
I'm not trying to **** in your gravy here, more so trying to save you money. I've been doing this 10+ years and I'm telling you, spend your money elsewhere. Here's be my suggestions...
For a 6 speed car, take that money and spend it on a good master cylinder like the Tick perf. unit. If you're running a stock clutch, that'd be a worth while upgrade as well. Perhaps work on strengthening things around the power of the car, that will actually do it some good. Even a stronger TQ arm maybe? I'm not suggesting buy all these at once, but at least one of these items could be bought with the money you're going to spend on pushrods/springs.
If it's an Automatic car, buy yourself a B&M trans cooler. That is 10000000x more beneficial and practical to put on a stock car than valve springs. Do a trans flush while it's still young. These are practical mods.
You're also not doing your car any favors installing hardened pushrods. You'll just be putting yourself 1 step closer to bending valves on a mis shift, instead of bending a cheap/easy to fix pushrod.
I'm not trying to **** in your gravy here, more so trying to save you money. I've been doing this 10+ years and I'm telling you, spend your money elsewhere. Here's be my suggestions...
For a 6 speed car, take that money and spend it on a good master cylinder like the Tick perf. unit. If you're running a stock clutch, that'd be a worth while upgrade as well. Perhaps work on strengthening things around the power of the car, that will actually do it some good. Even a stronger TQ arm maybe? I'm not suggesting buy all these at once, but at least one of these items could be bought with the money you're going to spend on pushrods/springs.
If it's an Automatic car, buy yourself a B&M trans cooler. That is 10000000x more beneficial and practical to put on a stock car than valve springs. Do a trans flush while it's still young. These are practical mods.
Last edited by Damian; Dec 27, 2009 at 06:43 PM.
Thread Starter
Launching!
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From: Lantz, Nova Scotia, Canada
great explaination, i was just thinking of doing it because i would like to send the car past 5500 and not get valve float. i'll put the money towards a torque arm. thanks
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Well you could always pull a few at random and test them. If they are within spec of normal pressure then keep them, if not change them. Better yet, put a baby cam in the car to justify a spring upgrade. 
There is no point in twisting past 5200 with a stock cam. There is no more power to be made at any higher RPM. The stock cam is a turd. I would be willing to bet you would get better results at the track short shifting... I agree with Damian, leave that **** alone in your not changing the cam.
http://www.superchevy.com/technical/...en3/index.html
Read it all...
http://www.superchevy.com/technical/...en3/index.html
Read it all...
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
There is no point in twisting past 5200 with a stock cam. There is no more power to be made at any higher RPM. The stock cam is a turd. I would be willing to bet you would get better results at the track short shifting... I agree with Damian, leave that **** alone in your not changing the cam.
http://www.superchevy.com/technical/...en3/index.html
Read it all...
http://www.superchevy.com/technical/...en3/index.html
Read it all...
There is no point in twisting past 5200 with a stock cam. There is no more power to be made at any higher RPM. The stock cam is a turd. I would be willing to bet you would get better results at the track short shifting... I agree with Damian, leave that **** alone in your not changing the cam.
http://www.superchevy.com/technical/...en3/index.html
Read it all...
http://www.superchevy.com/technical/...en3/index.html
Read it all...