243 heads with stock ls1 cam
12-31-2009, 02:32 PM
#42
Use a collapsible push rod to get the right measurement you can get them from Texas Speed, measure and then buy the correct length push rod. If you get the 7.4 push rods, they are going to be too long, and you will not be able to get the correct preload or valve lash, warm or cold and you will experience very high valve train noise. Therefore having to remove your push rods, measure and get the right sized ones and redo your whole preload and lash over again.
That's the advise you should be giving him.
12-31-2009, 03:31 PM
#43
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Ah let me see since I am posting all I have said out of my *** the lifter cup in the LS7 lifter is actually taller that the LS1 so your push rods are going to be shorter. The actual advise you need to give is the following...
Use a collapsible push rod to get the right measurement you can get them from Texas Speed, measure and then buy the correct length push rod. If you get the 7.4 push rods, they are going to be too long, and you will not be able to get the correct preload or valve lash, warm or cold and you will experience very high valve train noise. Therefore having to remove your push rods, measure and get the right sized ones and redo your whole preload and lash over again.
That's the advise you should be giving him.
Use a collapsible push rod to get the right measurement you can get them from Texas Speed, measure and then buy the correct length push rod. If you get the 7.4 push rods, they are going to be too long, and you will not be able to get the correct preload or valve lash, warm or cold and you will experience very high valve train noise. Therefore having to remove your push rods, measure and get the right sized ones and redo your whole preload and lash over again.
That's the advise you should be giving him.
The Z28 and the SS have two different engines that is why the difference in HP. Many people where pist off they bought the 99 Z28 and then towards the end of the year they cam out with the SS. The Z28 brought the LT1 drive train and the SS brought the LS1.
The LS1 revamped the heads, intake and the HP output and the drive train over all. They are two different cars and and the HP out put is about right. As a matter fact the reason that Chevy stopped making the Camaro was because the engineering was so good on the F-body that it was out performing the Corvette the Chevrolet flagship in many aspects.
If you look at it now the new Camaro is a completely different car. While it has a lot of potential, it will not endanger the performance pintacle of the Corvette.
The LS1 revamped the heads, intake and the HP output and the drive train over all. They are two different cars and and the HP out put is about right. As a matter fact the reason that Chevy stopped making the Camaro was because the engineering was so good on the F-body that it was out performing the Corvette the Chevrolet flagship in many aspects.
If you look at it now the new Camaro is a completely different car. While it has a lot of potential, it will not endanger the performance pintacle of the Corvette.
12-31-2009, 04:33 PM
#44
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If you can't afford the lifters, you can't afford the heads. Replace your head gaskets and start modding when you can afford to do so. Bad, bad, bad idea to mod when $100~ on such a critical engine component is skipped due to lack of funds.
12-31-2009, 09:52 PM
#47
You know you all are right I talked out of turn did not do my research and yeah I deserve all the razing from everyone that feels they need to chime in but if you internet bitches think what you say has any bearing in my life what I do and what I have accomplished please think again...
Needless to say my accomplishments have nothing to do with cars and if you all think that the end all I beg to differ.
Happy New Years to all.
Needless to say my accomplishments have nothing to do with cars and if you all think that the end all I beg to differ.
Happy New Years to all.
12-31-2009, 10:14 PM
#48
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You know you all are right I talked out of turn did not do my research and yeah I deserve all the razing from everyone that feels they need to chime in but if you internet bitches think what you say has any bearing in my life what I do and what I have accomplished please think again...
12-31-2009, 10:21 PM
#49
Thanks
12-31-2009, 10:54 PM
#50
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[QUOTE=02*C5;12690214]You still to answer if what i said about the ls7 lifter and push rods is right or wrong. I am not bent out of shape is just me owning up and saying I was wrong. But when ever you decide to answer what I posted about the lifter pushrods and such and let me know if I am right or wrong
For the most part this is correct^^^
This is the method I use.
Make sure you're on the base circle of the cam. Torque the rocker to 22ftlb with the pushrod checker in the hole but not touching the rocker. Then extend the pushrod until your at zero lash. Remove the rocker, remove the pushrod and measure it with a dial caliper. Then add the amount of preload you want to run, to the measurement and order your Pushrods.You will need to do both the intake & exhaust.
Ah let me see since I am posting all I have said out of my *** the lifter cup in the LS7 lifter is actually taller that the LS1 so your push rods are going to be shorter. The actual advise you need to give is the following...
Use a collapsible push rod to get the right measurement you can get them from Texas Speed, measure and then buy the correct length push rod. If you get the 7.4 push rods, they are going to be too long, and you will not be able to get the correct preload or valve lash, warm or cold and you will experience very high valve train noise. Therefore having to remove your push rods, measure and get the right sized ones and redo your whole preload and lash over again.
That's the advise you should be giving him.
Use a collapsible push rod to get the right measurement you can get them from Texas Speed, measure and then buy the correct length push rod. If you get the 7.4 push rods, they are going to be too long, and you will not be able to get the correct preload or valve lash, warm or cold and you will experience very high valve train noise. Therefore having to remove your push rods, measure and get the right sized ones and redo your whole preload and lash over again.
That's the advise you should be giving him.
This is the method I use.
Make sure you're on the base circle of the cam. Torque the rocker to 22ftlb with the pushrod checker in the hole but not touching the rocker. Then extend the pushrod until your at zero lash. Remove the rocker, remove the pushrod and measure it with a dial caliper. Then add the amount of preload you want to run, to the measurement and order your Pushrods.You will need to do both the intake & exhaust.
12-31-2009, 11:08 PM
#51
Im sorry but that is a MASSIVE piece of miss imformation.well thats 99.9% true.
GM had a handful, of Corvettes in 1997 that still Sported the LT1. One sold on Barret Jackson the other day actually. BUT these were never sold to the public to my knowledge and the one or two made like this spent there time with GM...
It actually threw me for a loop when I saw and heard this on BJ auctions, and then saw it sell for like 30k?? I would have thought it would be worth more but alas, an LT1 is still an LT1 regardless of what year its in.
01-01-2010, 05:11 PM
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well thats 99.9% true.
GM had a handful, of Corvettes in 1997 that still Sported the LT1. One sold on Barret Jackson the other day actually. BUT these were never sold to the public to my knowledge and the one or two made like this spent there time with GM...
It actually threw me for a loop when I saw and heard this on BJ auctions, and then saw it sell for like 30k?? I would have thought it would be worth more but alas, an LT1 is still an LT1 regardless of what year its in.
GM had a handful, of Corvettes in 1997 that still Sported the LT1. One sold on Barret Jackson the other day actually. BUT these were never sold to the public to my knowledge and the one or two made like this spent there time with GM...
It actually threw me for a loop when I saw and heard this on BJ auctions, and then saw it sell for like 30k?? I would have thought it would be worth more but alas, an LT1 is still an LT1 regardless of what year its in.
thats weird. ive never heard of that. was it a C5 body?
why the hell would they want the LT1 over the LS1? were they skeptical of the new motor, and confident in the power of the LT1?
01-01-2010, 05:20 PM
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You still to answer if what i said about the ls7 lifter and push rods is right or wrong. I am not bent out of shape is just me owning up and saying I was wrong. But when ever you decide to answer what I posted about the lifter pushrods and such and let me know if I am right or wrong.
Thanks
Thanks
and i didnt comment about the lifters being taller, because ive never measured them myself and i dont like to simply regurgitate stuff i read on the internet.
BTW, do you have a vehicle with an LS1? just wondering cause you dont have any info in your sig.
so to the OP, the bottom line on the LS7 lifters is......do like baddbird said and measure it your self with a pushrod length checker before you order the PRs so you know what length you need.
01-01-2010, 05:53 PM
#54
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Unless somehow your current lifters are bad or a head gasket is blown hold off off on changing the heads until you can afford the rest of the valvetrain parts (cam, lifters, pushrods, springs, etc) in full and do the swap all at once. No sense in tearing into the top half of the motor now and tearing into it again shortly to finish what you wanted to do in the first place.
However if you decide against a cam swap, swapping the 243 heads would still be a nice little gain with the stock cam. Shoot for a set out of a Vette because of the sodium filled valves, but if not you'll still get the same yellow valve springs if you find a set out of, say, a Trailblazer SS.
Jason
However if you decide against a cam swap, swapping the 243 heads would still be a nice little gain with the stock cam. Shoot for a set out of a Vette because of the sodium filled valves, but if not you'll still get the same yellow valve springs if you find a set out of, say, a Trailblazer SS.
Jason
01-01-2010, 09:57 PM
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Unless somehow your current lifters are bad or a head gasket is blown hold off off on changing the heads until you can afford the rest of the valvetrain parts (cam, lifters, pushrods, springs, etc) in full and do the swap all at once. No sense in tearing into the top half of the motor now and tearing into it again shortly to finish what you wanted to do in the first place.
However if you decide against a cam swap, swapping the 243 heads would still be a nice little gain with the stock cam. Shoot for a set out of a Vette because of the sodium filled valves, but if not you'll still get the same yellow valve springs if you find a set out of, say, a Trailblazer SS.
Jason
However if you decide against a cam swap, swapping the 243 heads would still be a nice little gain with the stock cam. Shoot for a set out of a Vette because of the sodium filled valves, but if not you'll still get the same yellow valve springs if you find a set out of, say, a Trailblazer SS.
Jason
01-01-2010, 11:23 PM
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Jason
01-02-2010, 01:48 AM
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so it's the LS2 that doesn't have the hollow valves huh?
i wonder why. are they just solid steel?
i guess that explains the difference in the price. the ls2 exhaust valve msrp is $20.83, and the LS6 exh valve is 50.67.
i wonder why. are they just solid steel?
i guess that explains the difference in the price. the ls2 exhaust valve msrp is $20.83, and the LS6 exh valve is 50.67.
01-02-2010, 04:18 AM
#58
Ah let me see since I am posting all I have said out of my *** the lifter cup in the LS7 lifter is actually taller that the LS1 so your push rods are going to be shorter. The actual advise you need to give is the following...
Use a collapsible push rod to get the right measurement you can get them from Texas Speed, measure and then buy the correct length push rod. If you get the 7.4 push rods, they are going to be too long, and you will not be able to get the correct preload or valve lash, warm or cold and you will experience very high valve train noise. Therefore having to remove your push rods, measure and get the right sized ones and redo your whole preload and lash over again.
That's the advise you should be giving him.
Use a collapsible push rod to get the right measurement you can get them from Texas Speed, measure and then buy the correct length push rod. If you get the 7.4 push rods, they are going to be too long, and you will not be able to get the correct preload or valve lash, warm or cold and you will experience very high valve train noise. Therefore having to remove your push rods, measure and get the right sized ones and redo your whole preload and lash over again.
That's the advise you should be giving him.
You can't even buy LS1 lifters anymore, it's the LS7's or aftermarket. By the way, running the preload at the extremes, full depth or full height, is going to make more power than "safely in the middle." My preference is to run as little as possible with a 3/8ths pushrod.
Sooo...
01-02-2010, 07:45 AM
#59
Nice ..using E-85 ethernal?? I think about E-85 for my Camaro.
Not really I got there with an E-85 conversion and I have just about everything you can put on on.
Before the E-85 I was at 412/356 respectively That was with a very aggressive cam with a 614 lift, 90/90 ported, 243 heads done by Advanced Induction, LS6 valves, 921 springs, vararam vr-b2, 36# injectors, American Racing headers 1 7/8 to 3" collector, 3X2.5 Xpipe, 3400 stall, rpm stage IV 4l60e, Z06 rear diff with hardened out put shaft and a hell of a tune. The E-85 allowed me to run a full 28* of timing and added about another 40 rwhp with the set up. I had to step up to 72# injectors and an A1000 fuel pump. So there is a lot that goes into pulling 450 rwhp through an A4. I am right now at 450/420.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8SLz1a2BwSE
Before the E-85 I was at 412/356 respectively That was with a very aggressive cam with a 614 lift, 90/90 ported, 243 heads done by Advanced Induction, LS6 valves, 921 springs, vararam vr-b2, 36# injectors, American Racing headers 1 7/8 to 3" collector, 3X2.5 Xpipe, 3400 stall, rpm stage IV 4l60e, Z06 rear diff with hardened out put shaft and a hell of a tune. The E-85 allowed me to run a full 28* of timing and added about another 40 rwhp with the set up. I had to step up to 72# injectors and an A1000 fuel pump. So there is a lot that goes into pulling 450 rwhp through an A4. I am right now at 450/420.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8SLz1a2BwSE
01-02-2010, 10:27 AM
#60
The lifter cup is .050 higher in the LS7 lifter. Yes, that's true. LS1 lifters from the factory came with .100 preload. Without changing pushrod length you are at .050 preload. Well within the "safe" zone. Of course with smaller base circle cams, milled heads, and thinner gaskets you better be checking length even WITH your stock LS1 lifters. That's just common sense, I didn't know I needed to explain that. But then again, this IS LS1Tech.. I should realize who I am talking to here instead of taking common sense for granted..
You can't even buy LS1 lifters anymore, it's the LS7's or aftermarket. By the way, running the preload at the extremes, full depth or full height, is going to make more power than "safely in the middle." My preference is to run as little as possible with a 3/8ths pushrod.
Sooo...
You can't even buy LS1 lifters anymore, it's the LS7's or aftermarket. By the way, running the preload at the extremes, full depth or full height, is going to make more power than "safely in the middle." My preference is to run as little as possible with a 3/8ths pushrod.
Sooo...
sorry to steer this thread so far off.