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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 02:09 AM
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I have my heads off my car getting ready to swap on some 317s. Im cleaning up the gasket and getting the junk out of the cylinders. At what point should I be able to turn the motor over by hand? The motor is still in the car and attached to a t56. Shouldnt I be able to do it right now? I have the car in neutral FYI lol. I hope its not suppose to turn because this ****** aint budging....
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 02:15 AM
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You should be able to put a long ratchet and socket and put it on the balancer bolt and turn the motor over now
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 02:27 AM
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I cant :/

The motor hasnt had oil in it for a month, still I figured there would be enough left to turn over. Heres what Ive done, maybe we can figure out whats going on. Ive taken the oil pan and front timing cover off, added an Ls6 oil pump, double roller timing chain and March UD pulley. Its all back together now, was just adding the heads on. Could it be that I overtorqued the bolts attaching the bellhousing to the oil pan? Im really at a loss....
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 02:32 AM
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Where was it sitting when it was apart? Has it been apart for a month?
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 02:36 AM
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Its been sitting in the engine bay. I put the motor on a hoist when I dropped the oil pan. The motor hasnt ran for about 5 months now, come to think of it it was kinda hard to turn it over by hand about 3 months ago when I first took the pulley off.
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 02:37 AM
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I meant location like inside or outside.
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 02:38 AM
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Lol, inside. Its heated when I work on it otherwise its about 40-50 degrees.
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 02:42 AM
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Thanks for the help btw..this is my first time playing with this kinda thing.
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 03:12 AM
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You could try shooting some, not a lot, penetrating oil down the spark plug holes and checking the bearings to make sure they are not rusted. I imagine one of the two if not both are. If its not too bad you should be able to clean it up and be OK, if it is then its going to need more attention. Temperature changes and sitting open is not good for that stuff.
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 03:16 AM
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Heads are off currently, so just spray some penetrating oil on the cylinder walls and some down the lifter tray area?
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 03:19 AM
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Originally Posted by XtremeDime
Heads are off currently, so just spray some penetrating oil on the cylinder walls and some down the lifter tray area?
Yea, but realize it might be too far gone or it may scuff the walls up but it might fix it and you'll have no issues. The right way would be to have it cleaned up and put new rings and bearings in it.
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 03:41 AM
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I really dont think my bearings rusting is much of a possibility. My motor hasnt started in 5 months or so, with less than a month of it being exposed to open air. Last time I was under the car there was still an oil film on the crank and when I pulled off the heads last week it was the same way there. I have ungalvanized steel parts lying around my garage that have been sitting just as long and have no rust. Mainly due to our dry winters, Id assume. With that said, what are the other possibilities here? Could me flywheel be binding on something? Anything?
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 04:30 AM
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Likely rusted to the cylinder walls. Your location may be damp. Try some PB Blaster on the cylinder walls by going around the circumference of each piston. Then see if it will break free. Once its free, when my motor is open I coat the cylinders every night with oil and turn it over to ensure they don't rust. It does't take much time, especially in my location due to the salt air. Heck, one of the corrosion research sites is only a few miles from my house. They test by just leaving the stuff outside and letting the salt air do its thing so I have to be very careful when I open the motor to work on it.
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 04:32 AM
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Cylinder walls look fine, I dont see any kind of rust. I spread some oil around the outer part of the piston and also poured some down the lifter valley.
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 11:11 AM
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You get it to turn over yet?
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