The beat to death connecting rod debate...
01-16-2010, 11:14 PM
#22
FormerVendor
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Baton Rouge, LA, USA
Posts: 1,954
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
The standard ARP High Performance bolts are 8740 Chromoly. The Pro Series are ARP 2000, ARP's own 220,000 PSI alloy. If you paid $90, you most likely have the better ARP 2000 bolts.
Shane
Shane
01-17-2010, 12:30 AM
#24
FormerVendor
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Baton Rouge, LA, USA
Posts: 1,954
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
You have the 134-6006 HP bolts 8740 CM. We sell them for $79. The Pro Series are 134-6301 ARP2000 alloy. We sell them for $99.
See Here:
http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...vid=3&pcid=213
Thanks,
Shane
See Here:
http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...vid=3&pcid=213
Thanks,
Shane
01-17-2010, 01:04 PM
#25
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Edmonton Alberta , Canada
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have actually measured the bore change from stock to ARP Pro Series. Less than .0001" in every case... usually less than half a tenth, and that is when I could detect a change. The powdered metal cracked cap rods are VERY resistant to distortion. You will NOT have any problems with a proper install. I've done them many, many times over the years. As a matter of fact, if I am changing the oil pump or timing set and the motor is out of the car, I automatically do it for any build that will see over 6600.
Shane
Shane
Cool. according to the book i have the factory machining tolerence is .00015"
with a service rating of .0003 "
once i install these i can actually spin up to 6600 and not wince.
Thanks to eveyone who replied, i appreciate it .
01-17-2010, 03:17 PM
#26
+1 for ARP's. I used the regular ARP's not the Pro just cause I already had them in my 04 LQ4. The ferrules I took out of my rod caps because my ARP bolt's had a raised beveled edge right under the head of the bolt that would not clear the ferrules when installed so I just pulled them out. The ferrules are only in there to center the factory rod bolt up in the cap when tightened down, so since my ARP's had the raised beveled edge on them already I didn't need the ferrules anymore.
My motor has seen multiple 7K plus RPM's and been to the track often and driven on the street often. I have over 25,000 miles on them so far with 0 issues.
Also the cracked rods in these engines can't be re-sized unless you are going to enlarge the actual bore of the rod and use an oversized rod bearing.
My motor has seen multiple 7K plus RPM's and been to the track often and driven on the street often. I have over 25,000 miles on them so far with 0 issues.
Also the cracked rods in these engines can't be re-sized unless you are going to enlarge the actual bore of the rod and use an oversized rod bearing.
01-17-2010, 04:26 PM
#28
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Edmonton Alberta , Canada
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
+1 for ARP's. I used the regular ARP's not the Pro just cause I already had them in my 04 LQ4. The ferrules I took out of my rod caps because my ARP bolt's had a raised beveled edge right under the head of the bolt that would not clear the ferrules when installed so I just pulled them out. The ferrules are only in there to center the factory rod bolt up in the cap when tightened down, so since my ARP's had the raised beveled edge on them already I didn't need the ferrules anymore.
My motor has seen multiple 7K plus RPM's and been to the track often and driven on the street often. I have over 25,000 miles on them so far with 0 issues.
Also the cracked rods in these engines can't be re-sized unless you are going to enlarge the actual bore of the rod and use an oversized rod bearing.
My motor has seen multiple 7K plus RPM's and been to the track often and driven on the street often. I have over 25,000 miles on them so far with 0 issues.
Also the cracked rods in these engines can't be re-sized unless you are going to enlarge the actual bore of the rod and use an oversized rod bearing.
Good to know, did you just torque them, or did you use a bolt stretch gauge?
also how did you go about torquing them ? i know 1 bolt @ a time per rod cap, but do you just pop on old rod bolt and ferrule out, put the ARP with the moly lube on it in, torque it, loosen it , repeat, then torque again and leave it ?
im thinking that moving the whole rotating assembly around per torque sequence might help with getting proper torque.... perhaps im out to lunch.
Again im grateful for the info you all have laid down infront of me/personal experiences etc. i absolutley will proceed forward with a rod bolt swap.
01-17-2010, 08:13 PM
#29
My particular setup was done like this. I had a stock '04 9K mile longblock LQ4 motor, I tore it down completely because I was going to build a stroker. I blew my stock LS1 up in my TA (98 stock bottom end started knocking after 7K rpm tuning session) so I needed a motor quick to put back in the car. I re-assembled the LQ4 bottom end re-using the stock rod bolts. On the initial startup I discovered a huge oil leak, long story short the ear of the block opposite to the starter was cracked across the oil galley feeding the lifters.... scrap block! I then found an 03 block that had a slight knock so I pulled my 04 rotating assembly out of the scrap block and installed it in the 03 block, I then installed the ARP bolts since they were sitting on the shelf and I didn't want to risk the stock bolt's coming apart like the 98 LS1 did. So basically my 04 LQ4 rods have been torqued 3 times... First being the initial build from GM, second being me reinstalling them in the 04 block, and third with the ARP's.
I used ARP's method of stretching the bolts since I didn't have a stretch gauge.
You can see a video of the car in my sig running 10's at the track with this setup... that was with a 6spd, completely stock suspension down to the stamped torque arm and 10-bolt! 150 shot was used too lol
I used ARP's method of stretching the bolts since I didn't have a stretch gauge.
You can see a video of the car in my sig running 10's at the track with this setup... that was with a 6spd, completely stock suspension down to the stamped torque arm and 10-bolt! 150 shot was used too lol
01-18-2010, 12:08 PM
#30
I have actually measured the bore change from stock to ARP Pro Series. Less than .0001" in every case... usually less than half a tenth, and that is when I could detect a change. The powdered metal cracked cap rods are VERY resistant to distortion. You will NOT have any problems with a proper install. I've done them many, many times over the years. As a matter of fact, if I am changing the oil pump or timing set and the motor is out of the car, I automatically do it for any build that will see over 6600.
Shane
Shane
Anyway, I did the rod bolt upgrade several years ago, and I see 7000rpm daily. Removed and installed one bolt at a time, torqued with the procedure and specs in the printed on the included instructions. I had a 2001 shortblock, so it had the ferrules. I unscrewed the bolts until loose in the cap, pulled up and turned another 360 degrees or so, just enough to catch the ferrule. Grabbed the bolt with some pliers, wiggled, and pulled the bolt and ferrule out - there a several write-ups on this process that have been posted through the years.
01-18-2010, 11:46 PM
#31
What year ranges come with the ferrules or is it simply a luck thing?
ARP's Customer assistance are not the best people to talk to. If you call them ask for the custom parts shop and you will get the people that make the parts not the people that are simply reading off of tech cards.
I have a 2006 LQ-4 that suppose to have upgraded rod bolts, but I changed them anyway to the ARP ones. Followed the instructions to torque the required 3 times to stretch method with the proper lube on the threads and under the head. No issues thus far. I did call ARP and it was recommened to remove the furrels. Of course you could call back later and talk to someone different that says leave them in. Just make sure to do only one side of the cap at a time and follow the torque three time method if you don't have a stretch gage. I have had no issues with multiple runs @6800 down the 1320 Just my opinion.
