The beat to death connecting rod debate...
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: Edmonton Alberta , Canada
The beat to death connecting rod debate... is not what i am here to talk about 
all i ask is for anyone with the ARP pro connecting rod bolts installed in their engine, to chime in and tell if they have had any problems, or if they would recommend them again. i know some think katechs are better. i have the ARPs in my hand however.
Regards,
RRhodes
all i ask is for anyone with the ARP pro connecting rod bolts installed in their engine, to chime in and tell if they have had any problems, or if they would recommend them again. i know some think katechs are better. i have the ARPs in my hand however.
Regards,
RRhodes
TECH Addict
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 2,481
Likes: 5
From: PA/MD
I went with the Katechs, but either way if up grading the the motor to spin faster I would always recomend upgrading rodbolts. I did not go with the ARP bolts because of the chance of needing machine work to get them in right
Katechs or Arp's shouldn't matter, neither would require machine work. I just went with Katech's because I think it is the cheapest Katech part I can have in my motor, and say "Ya I have some Katech parts in here "
" 
Launching!
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 260
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From: greensboro, nc
IMO when it comes to fasteners no one beats ARP they set the standard and continue to better their products to remain the best. Any thing else is just a copy on the the real thing. So to answer your question Yes I would recommend the ARP pro rod bolts.
What year is the motor? The rob bolt design changed mid production, some have ferrules installed that need to be removed. I've used both Lingenfelter and Katech rod bolts without issue. The Katech bolts are beautifully crafted pieces, definitely nothing second rate about them.
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
I left my ferrules or whatever you call them. No issue. Its nothing more then a spacer of sorts. I dont see what the big issue is with them anyway.
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there is no such thing as a rod bolt upgrade that does not require machine work. just because people have put them in without resizing the rods and got away with it, doesnt make it right.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: Edmonton Alberta , Canada
its a 2000 LS1. no idea if it has a rod bolt spacers in there. im a machinist so i could prob. fab up some sort of a jig to get them out. Or are they really not that hard to get out with some wiggling and cussin?
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
I dont remember the ARPs saying anything about ferrules in there small instruction sheet.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: Edmonton Alberta , Canada
Yeah, over-looking the ARP install sheet i have here, it says nothing to indicate the removal of the ferrules. I guess i will end up removing mine (if they exist). It also appears that the dia. underneath the small radius of the bolt head, is bigger than the major dia. of the thread. i havent got out a mic to check yet, but if that is the case, i think it'd be indicitive that that larger dia. is meant to "fill in " the area that the ferrule's reside in. guess ill have to take a look.
Also, for those that have done the ARP install, did you just torque them, or did you do it by bolt stretch ?
For any who have done it via bolt stretch, what gauge will fit when the engine is stil in the car ?
just wondering if actually doing bolt strech method will be benifical, or just another PITA
Also, for those that have done the ARP install, did you just torque them, or did you do it by bolt stretch ?
For any who have done it via bolt stretch, what gauge will fit when the engine is stil in the car ?
just wondering if actually doing bolt strech method will be benifical, or just another PITA
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
Also, my ferrules were a loose fit inside the cap. Not like a press fit or anything. If the ARP bolt had a slight radius under the head to center it on the through hole, I dont see the ferrules interfering with that in any way.
I have a 2006 LQ-4 that suppose to have upgraded rod bolts, but I changed them anyway to the ARP ones. Followed the instructions to torque the required 3 times to stretch method with the proper lube on the threads and under the head. No issues thus far. I did call ARP and it was recommened to remove the furrels. Of course you could call back later and talk to someone different that says leave them in. Just make sure to do only one side of the cap at a time and follow the torque three time method if you don't have a stretch gage. I have had no issues with multiple runs @6800 down the 1320 Just my opinion.
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
From: Anaheim Ca
I did mine 20k ago along with a new pan gasket/o-ring and poly motor mounts. Not one issue yet..
I'm a firm believer that ARP only wants you to machine to cover there own ***.. I did some serious searching before I did do the mod and didnt find any engine failures directly linked to an ARP rod bolt installation..
Joe
I'm a firm believer that ARP only wants you to machine to cover there own ***.. I did some serious searching before I did do the mod and didnt find any engine failures directly linked to an ARP rod bolt installation..
Joe
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: Edmonton Alberta , Canada
I did mine 20k ago along with a new pan gasket/o-ring and poly motor mounts. Not one issue yet..
I'm a firm believer that ARP only wants you to machine to cover there own ***.. I did some serious searching before I did do the mod and didnt find any engine failures directly linked to an ARP rod bolt installation..
Joe
I'm a firm believer that ARP only wants you to machine to cover there own ***.. I did some serious searching before I did do the mod and didnt find any engine failures directly linked to an ARP rod bolt installation..
Joe
exactly, i have heard some say a hone, bore was a necesssity, however i am yet to find one instance on google, LS1tech etc. indicating a failure due to a rod bolt swap.
i think i will just do it this spring.
take one bolt out of each con rod per cylinder, swap torque to 40ft/lbs, turn engine by hand, torque again, turn by hand once more,final torque: repeat for the other 8, then check it all over once more before calling it a day
sounds correct?
Thanks to all who replied
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
ARP didnt specify turning the engine over between torquing. And in all honesty, the rod caps are grooved so doing both bolts at the same time doesnt change how they are seated. I personally did both bolts at once, by putting in the ARPs and then alternating sides as I was going through the 3 time torque sequence. Seemed simpler to me this way.
I have actually measured the bore change from stock to ARP Pro Series. Less than .0001" in every case... usually less than half a tenth, and that is when I could detect a change. The powdered metal cracked cap rods are VERY resistant to distortion. You will NOT have any problems with a proper install. I've done them many, many times over the years. As a matter of fact, if I am changing the oil pump or timing set and the motor is out of the car, I automatically do it for any build that will see over 6600.
Shane
Shane
Last edited by XtraCajunSS; Jan 16, 2010 at 11:16 PM.