Black LS1 T/A

Would anyone recommend one of the sponsors here that I might get a rebuild kit from?

hcb1700

iTrader: (9)

Did you try Seafoam? That might help.

stangbeaterz28

iTrader: (6)

how is that you think seafoam will help increase oil pressure by nearly 20 psi?

slayerized6

iTrader: (12)

i wish if could change the OPSU without removing the manifold. The clip on the pigtail harness is sandwiched between the OPSU and IM!!! oh well, it will be my 3rd time removing the manifold. Fist time took me 4 hours start to finish, 2nd time took 2 hours, hopefully this time will be less than an hour since i dont have to mess with the fuel rail and injectors.

Beau@SDPC

iTrader: (14)

We can definately get you what you need. the problem being, your rods/crank may not be in spec for a standard bearing, so you would first need to get those parts checked to see if there is a problem.

BUT, that being said, we can get you anything you want, from all stock replacement, to more Ci like a 383, just forged pistons, or whatever else you want. Just let us know!

Black LS1 T/A

OK ... once I pull it, I will get with you ...

This engine is already a 422 CID built from a 6.0L Iron Block.

We'll have to see what is going on, parts-wise (I hope something minor and simple, even though it looks like I must pull the engine.)

slayerized6

iTrader: (12)

i fixed my oil pressure problems. turns out it was the OPSU after all. I replaced the OPSU 9 months ago when i did my intake swap, but i guess these things are built like crap. My oil pressure is insane now with my unnecessarily-installed Thunder Racing pump...im putting out 55-60psi at cruising speed.

Black LS1 T/A

Great!

Since it was the OPSU, the oil pressure was always truly up, though, right?

slayerized6

iTrader: (12)

theoretically, yes.

took me about an hour or so to replace the OPSU today in 20* weather. you should be able to swap out the sender if you got small hands, but i had the pull the manifold forward because i couldnt unclip the harness. buy the OPSU made by Standard Auto Parts...my delco unit only lasted me about 9 months

Black LS1 T/A

I guess what I'm saying is ... unless someone tells me the sender can somehow restrict oil flow where the pressure lowers, there's no need for me to do the sender; I have already hooked an external gauge to my car and verified the oil pressure is truly low.

02blackbeauty19

iTrader: (22)

Did you ever find the issue?
My car seems to have the same problem.

Black LS1 T/A

Just closing the loop.

Got around to opening up the engine. #4 Main Bearing (something that could not be seen with the oil pan only removed) was worn (not spun) and oil was leaking past that bearing. All other bearings were pristine.

One of the cylinders had water in it. Gasket had a hole at that spot. Piston is fine.

One of the cam lobes was a bit damaged; looks like a lifter was not rolling there anymore. But, Comp Cams says it looks possible the cam can be reground to a simlar profile. I'll know today.

Thanks for all the replies I received in this thread before.

ljsracing19j

I know you wont like this. And i know you wont believe me but im going to say it anyway. 1/2 of your main bearing problem was probably caused by using the wrong oil.

Think of it this way take your thumb and pointer finger and make a circle. Stick your fist through it. (doesnt fit does it) well make it. What happens? Either you enlarge the circle or your fist is no longer a fist. Thats what happens when you use thicker oil that you shouldnt. The molecules in the oil break down OR you gouge your bearings. Either way its not what i would want. 20-50 doesnt belong in a daily driver. Unless you built the motor really loose. And i doubt thats the case. you really shouldnt need over 10w30. JMO take it for what its worth.

Black LS1 T/A

ljsracing ... I agree with you.

As I mentioned, until the low oil pressure problem:
I had been told, however, that 10/40 synthetic was acceptable as 10/30 dino.

Thanks for the advice. I'll keep that in mind for this next engine.