Please, I need info on JPR lifter tool
Johnny, it is an aluminum 1/2 round bar, with a paddle type handle on the end. Used to be a pic on Thunders website. Not sure if its there. After removing the front cover, you spin the cam a few times, which locks the lifters into the retaining cups, then insert one tool down each of the oil galleys. This keeps the lifters from falling in the event the cup doesnt hold them.
Can also use 1/8" rod, wrapped with loop side of velcro, can measure it out later.
Can also use 1/8" rod, wrapped with loop side of velcro, can measure it out later.
I bought one from Thunder. One side worked great, the pass side would only go half way in before getting in a bind. This was on an iron block 6 liter, so it may work fine on a LS1 block. I know of another iron block cam swap where this tool also had the same issue as mine, so it may just be a difference in iron / aluminum castings.
The reason they bind is half way thru 2001 GM decided to use crane style as well as comp style lifters. there is an ever so slight difference in the grooves on them, as explained by JPR which would cause it to bind. They appearantly made a v2 which was multi lifter design safe. I still need to get mine back to TR for credit.
Launching!
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Oceanside CA
Whether you use JPR's tool or make your own, you can make it a lot easier on yourself if you take a socket (larger than the valve stem/keepers, smaller than the OD of the retainer, say about a 11/16's) and a rubber mallet and tap the top of each retainer before attempting to remove them. Put the socket on the top of the retainer with the large opening towards the valve, and smartly tap the end of it with the mallet. Don't beat it, you're just trying to relieve the "seal" the retainer has on the keepers as a result of many miles of running and temperature cycling. You DON'T want to try to actually bounce the spring and retainer off the end of the valve.
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Originally Posted by Scott Turvey
Whether you use JPR's tool or make your own, you can make it a lot easier on yourself if you take a socket (larger than the valve stem/keepers, smaller than the OD of the retainer, say about a 11/16's) and a rubber mallet and tap the top of each retainer before attempting to remove them. Put the socket on the top of the retainer with the large opening towards the valve, and smartly tap the end of it with the mallet. Don't beat it, you're just trying to relieve the "seal" the retainer has on the keepers as a result of many miles of running and temperature cycling. You DON'T want to try to actually bounce the spring and retainer off the end of the valve.
. i just tapped mine lightly with a hammer. LS1 Tech Stories
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Scott, your talking about a valve spring tool we are talking about lifter tool.
Y2KAIR. Your supposed to spin cam, insert rods, then remove cam. No spinning once its in! And you might want to call to see if you have to original tool or revised. I have an original set in my garage, going back to TR for replacement, but they DO NOT WORK on 01-02 models with the second series lifters.
Y2KAIR. Your supposed to spin cam, insert rods, then remove cam. No spinning once its in! And you might want to call to see if you have to original tool or revised. I have an original set in my garage, going back to TR for replacement, but they DO NOT WORK on 01-02 models with the second series lifters.
