LS1 383...where to begin?
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From: Anchorage, ALASKA
LS1 383...where to begin? I have a stock internalled LS1 and Im currently running about 10psi. Im looking at forged internals next year so I can up the boost but now Im wondering if I should stroke it out to a 383 while Im at it. Ive never built an engine before but will be taking my time and do my research on it. I dont really know where to begin so Im hoping I can be pointed in the right direction. It needs to get me around 9.3-9.5 CR with 317 heads and handle about 700 or so HP. What works well with boost?? Please help!
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From: oakland, ca
I would stroke it its only going to cost you a few bucks more...You will get the added strength of forging as well as the extra cubes..the extra cubes will help you when you are not making boost and you will make more power when you are boosting..its a win,win situation atleast in my opinion..
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From: Anchorage, ALASKA
Ya, based on all the places ive looked at(TSP, scoggins-dickey, Eagle, etc) itll be about 2200 or so which isnt bad. I can get pistons and rods for about 1100 though, so its about twice the cost. That would cover my bigger cam, lifters, springs and rods. Hmmmm
I bought my rotating assembly from tsp and it came with dart pistons with 8cc valve reliefs but they look like they are dished with a valve relief,with eagle crank and callies rods.
I am in the process of this right now, my block is at the machine shop, I decided to go with higher end parts, it has taken me a little while, I have a callies racemaster stroker crank, and lunati pro billet forged Ibeams, I just got my wiseco pistons in last week. I wanted mine to be able to handle whatever I throw at it, To Tell you the truth, You are not gonna beat the kits that texas speed sells, they are name brand and their price is unmatched that I have seen.
also forgot to mention, before you even think about this you need to get the service manuals for your model from GM
also forgot to mention, before you even think about this you need to get the service manuals for your model from GM
We use ACL race coated bearings in our assemblies but I can offer it with Clevite for less. Our prices are also shipped.
http://estore.websitepros.com/2120533/Detail.bok?no=56
We also have a Callies assembly for $2200 with Wiseco pistons. (little FYI.. we have been a proponent of Wiseco pistons from the beginning. You do not see any other piston offered from us for a reason.)
http://estore.websitepros.com/2120533/Detail.bok?no=56
We also have a Callies assembly for $2200 with Wiseco pistons. (little FYI.. we have been a proponent of Wiseco pistons from the beginning. You do not see any other piston offered from us for a reason.)
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what specifically are you asking? are certain parts better for boost than others? or are you asking what needs to be done to build a 383? dont forget the machine work needed to be done on the block to accomadate the 4" stroke. that adds up too. FYI the 383 doesnt make alot more hp than a well built 346, but the torque is what makes the 383 or any stroker sought after. good luck with the build and keep us posted. I love reading about the 383 builds on here and comparing to see what tweeks i can do to improve mine
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From: PA/MD
You may be able to buy a cheaper Used stroker, but remember the only thing you know about that engine is what the seller told you. However If you are competent enough to build your own,,You will know every detail of it. I am building mine, the only thing I can not do is the Honing and balancing of the rotating assembly. However this is not the first engine that I have built.
as listed above also
99blancoss is a sponser with good prices and a great guy to deal with also.
Whatever,,,,calling a 383 a waste of money is an opinion and a poor one at that. There are a ton of guys on here alone making great reliable power with this combo and running killer times. Kinda hard to compare the price of building a stroker engine from the foundation of what you already have, To the purchase of another engine that you dont have.
You may be able to buy a cheaper Used stroker, but remember the only thing you know about that engine is what the seller told you. However If you are competent enough to build your own,,You will know every detail of it. I am building mine, the only thing I can not do is the Honing and balancing of the rotating assembly. However this is not the first engine that I have built.
as listed above also
99blancoss is a sponser with good prices and a great guy to deal with also.
You may be able to buy a cheaper Used stroker, but remember the only thing you know about that engine is what the seller told you. However If you are competent enough to build your own,,You will know every detail of it. I am building mine, the only thing I can not do is the Honing and balancing of the rotating assembly. However this is not the first engine that I have built.
as listed above also
99blancoss is a sponser with good prices and a great guy to deal with also.
First off, if you notice my sig, you will see that I myself have a 383 and have had it for almost 3 years now. I'm not making some ignorant uneducated opinion, I OWN ONE. Secondly, if you re-read my statement you will see that I said in the case where you are purchasing a new block. If you are reusing your old block, by all means. But to purchase a new one outright, I would consider that to be a waste of money when for a few hundred more you can get something with a larger bore. Hell, I would rather have a stock displacement LS3 than my 383 LS6. Third, I would never buy a used engine from anyone other than a sponsor or someone I would consider to be a long time and respected member who knows their stuff.
But if the op does have extra money laying around the 408 iron block would be worth it.
I can see both sides of the coin here.
What Mikey is trying to point out is the bang for the buck. If you have to pay for a block then the 6.0 iron block is the cheapest one to get and gives you a 4" bore and you can make a 422 - 427 from it if you want to. We offer a 418 and a 422 for someone looking for more cubes from the the block than the usual 408.
If you have a good LS1 block then the 383 is an inexpensive way to go to get more streetable power, but if you have to buy a block at $1000 it's not going to sit well on the bang-per-bucko-meter.
IIRC Tony Mamo made 540 with his 383 and I know of 408's only making 470 at the wheels with cheaps heads and a shelf cam.
For what its worth I am going to put an LS1 383 into my 79 Z28. Small solid roller deal, nothing too radical.. its as daily driver and bad weather car.
Original plan was for a 408 but I want to do something on the cheap now to show a few things that can be done to make good power on a limited budget. We're going to use 241 casting heads as well.
What Mikey is trying to point out is the bang for the buck. If you have to pay for a block then the 6.0 iron block is the cheapest one to get and gives you a 4" bore and you can make a 422 - 427 from it if you want to. We offer a 418 and a 422 for someone looking for more cubes from the the block than the usual 408.
If you have a good LS1 block then the 383 is an inexpensive way to go to get more streetable power, but if you have to buy a block at $1000 it's not going to sit well on the bang-per-bucko-meter.
IIRC Tony Mamo made 540 with his 383 and I know of 408's only making 470 at the wheels with cheaps heads and a shelf cam.
For what its worth I am going to put an LS1 383 into my 79 Z28. Small solid roller deal, nothing too radical.. its as daily driver and bad weather car.
Original plan was for a 408 but I want to do something on the cheap now to show a few things that can be done to make good power on a limited budget. We're going to use 241 casting heads as well.
So your saying that the extra ci isn't worth the extra cash? Some people don't want to spend the extra money and get a different block. I originally wanted to go a 408 iron block, but for the money I'm plenty happy with my 383.
But if the op does have extra money laying around the 408 iron block would be worth it.
But if the op does have extra money laying around the 408 iron block would be worth it.
I can see both sides of the coin here.
What Mikey is trying to point out is the bang for the buck. If you have to pay for a block then the 6.0 iron block is the cheapest one to get and gives you a 4" bore and you can make a 422 - 427 from it if you want to. We offer a 418 and a 422 for someone looking for more cubes from the the block than the usual 408.
If you have a good LS1 block then the 383 is an inexpensive way to go to get more streetable power, but if you have to buy a block at $1000 it's not going to sit well on the bang-per-bucko-meter.
IIRC Tony Mamo made 540 with his 383 and I know of 408's only making 470 at the wheels with cheaps heads and a shelf cam.
For what its worth I am going to put an LS1 383 into my 79 Z28. Small solid roller deal, nothing too radical.. its as daily driver and bad weather car.
Original plan was for a 408 but I want to do something on the cheap now to show a few things that can be done to make good power on a limited budget. We're going to use 241 casting heads as well.
What Mikey is trying to point out is the bang for the buck. If you have to pay for a block then the 6.0 iron block is the cheapest one to get and gives you a 4" bore and you can make a 422 - 427 from it if you want to. We offer a 418 and a 422 for someone looking for more cubes from the the block than the usual 408.
If you have a good LS1 block then the 383 is an inexpensive way to go to get more streetable power, but if you have to buy a block at $1000 it's not going to sit well on the bang-per-bucko-meter.
IIRC Tony Mamo made 540 with his 383 and I know of 408's only making 470 at the wheels with cheaps heads and a shelf cam.
For what its worth I am going to put an LS1 383 into my 79 Z28. Small solid roller deal, nothing too radical.. its as daily driver and bad weather car.
Original plan was for a 408 but I want to do something on the cheap now to show a few things that can be done to make good power on a limited budget. We're going to use 241 casting heads as well.
