best pully puller
02-08-2010, 08:26 PM
#1
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best pully puller I need to find the cheapest but best way to get my stock ls1 crank pully off while motor is in car. I need the best tool and I want to install an ud pully. Do I need a different tool and bolt?
02-08-2010, 09:08 PM
#2
I rented a puller from AutoZone. It's free as long as you bring it back and don't break it. As far as getting the pulley back on I bought a tool from a member on her that made it really easy and simple putting it back on. You can use your stock crank bolt but I advise against it. Good way to mess up the threads on the crank.
02-09-2010, 08:27 AM
#6
150lbs. ...but yeah, after reading about it, I found out I shouldnt of gone with the same bolt. Something about the lock tight being worn off from the first time the bolt was on. I guess the second time you put it on, the lock tight that is still on the bolt is not as strong
02-09-2010, 08:51 AM
#7
150lbs. ...but yeah, after reading about it, I found out I shouldnt of gone with the same bolt. Something about the lock tight being worn off from the first time the bolt was on. I guess the second time you put it on, the lock tight that is still on the bolt is not as strong
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02-09-2010, 09:32 AM
#9
If you borrow the tool from your local Parts Store there should be the Install tool in there as well. It will have instructions on how to use it. Lubricate the Crank Snout and "Press" the UD Pulley onto the Crank until it is FULLY SEATED. Once it is seated you can Install the NEW Crank Bolt. Torque the new bolt to 37 ft. lbs. and then turn it an additional 140 degrees.
Last edited by InsaneDomestics; 02-09-2010 at 10:20 AM.
02-09-2010, 09:47 AM
#10
Fixed
If you borrow the tool from your local Parts Store there should be the Install tool in there as well. It will have instructions on how to use it. Lubricate the Crank Snout and "Press" the UD Pulley onto the Crank until it is FULLY SEATED. Once it is seated you can Install the NEW Crank Bolt. Torque the new bolt to 37 ft. lbs. and then turn it an additional 120 degrees.
If you borrow the tool from your local Parts Store there should be the Install tool in there as well. It will have instructions on how to use it. Lubricate the Crank Snout and "Press" the UD Pulley onto the Crank until it is FULLY SEATED. Once it is seated you can Install the NEW Crank Bolt. Torque the new bolt to 37 ft. lbs. and then turn it an additional 120 degrees.
Heres an article just scroll over the pic of the bolt. This one says 240ft.lbs.
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...mod/index.html
02-09-2010, 10:02 AM
#11
Im pretty sure its not 37ft.lbs. I did mine about 4 years ago and it said 150ft. lbs.
Heres an article just scroll over the pic of the bolt. This one says 240ft.lbs.
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...mod/index.html
Heres an article just scroll over the pic of the bolt. This one says 240ft.lbs.
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...mod/index.html
But like massls1guy said that isn't necessarily the best way to Install a UD Pulley because you take the risk of possibly Stripping the threads in the Crank itself... Which is VERY BAD
Not bein a smartass @ all but have you tried to Torque an Underdrive Pulley to 240ft. lbs. ??? Try it and let me know if you make it... I pulled on that Torque Wrench so hard I almost
myself. I don't remember what I made it to but it damn sure wasn't 240ft. lbs. Lol. They just want to make sure you get it Seated on the Crank Snout completely, otherwise it could come off like yours did 
Last edited by InsaneDomestics; 02-09-2010 at 10:20 AM.
02-09-2010, 10:39 AM
#12
Right, if you were going to install the UD Pulley by using the Stock Crank Bolt you would tighten it down to the 240ft lbs. just to make sure the Pulley is Completely Seated on the Crank Snout. Then you would take out the old Crank Bolt and Install the New Crank Bolt and tighten to 37ft lbs and then tighten an additional 140*
But like massls1guy said that isn't necessarily the best way to Install a UD Pulley because you take the risk of possibly Stripping the threads in the Crank itself... Which is VERY BAD
Not bein a smartass @ all but have you tried to Torque an Underdrive Pulley to 240ft. lbs. ??? Try it and let me know if you make it... I pulled on that Torque Wrench so hard I almost myself. I don't remember what I made it to but it damn sure wasn't 240ft. lbs. Lol. They just want to make sure you get it Seated on the Crank Snout completely, otherwise it could come off like yours did
But like massls1guy said that isn't necessarily the best way to Install a UD Pulley because you take the risk of possibly Stripping the threads in the Crank itself... Which is VERY BAD
Not bein a smartass @ all but have you tried to Torque an Underdrive Pulley to 240ft. lbs. ??? Try it and let me know if you make it... I pulled on that Torque Wrench so hard I almost
myself. I don't remember what I made it to but it damn sure wasn't 240ft. lbs. Lol. They just want to make sure you get it Seated on the Crank Snout completely, otherwise it could come off like yours did OK, my bad. I forgot chevyhiperformance was a suckers website. And as far as 240lbs?? C'mon, its says with an air gun, not by hand. My airgun/compressor uses 150, thats why it worked for me. Im not about to sit there and try and use muscle over tools. Again, my UD pulley came off cuz I did not use a new bolt and lock tight.
To the OP: sorry about the clutter here. Just rent the tool, buy a new bolt, and read the instructions that come with the UD pulley. Good Luck
02-09-2010, 11:15 AM
#14
There is a lot of mis-information here on installation. Installation is done with the tool as shown above. The tool is removed and the old bolt is installed and tightened to 240 lb-ft. The old bolt is removed and a new bolt is tightened to 37 lb-ft and then a further 140 degrees.
There are no impact wrenches or large torque values on the final bolt installation. It is done by rotation as torque is very susceptible to errors due to friction.
There are no impact wrenches or large torque values on the final bolt installation. It is done by rotation as torque is very susceptible to errors due to friction.
