best option f0r 130k ls1 motor
02-26-2010, 06:56 AM
#22
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The same way you would get 400-450 horses out of a 50k mile ls1!
@ 130k miles your fine. All the ls/lq style motors Ive seen, still have almost new looking bearings, and crosshatches still on the cylinder walls @ 130k miles. Ive done cam swaps @ 220k miles with out a problem. Stick with a cam and springs if your on a budget. Doing a 383 with stock heads is like picking the fattest kid on the playground with asthma to be your running back. Kinda counter productive if you ask me.
Last edited by 408z28; 02-26-2010 at 07:02 AM.
02-26-2010, 08:47 AM
#23
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From what I gathered on here I plan to do a compression test, if all is good then I will get a set of TSP5.3 Stage 2 heads and torquer V3 Cam package with oil pump and timing set, lifters exct….. I would run this for a few years or until the bottom end give out then go with a forged 383.
02-26-2010, 10:43 AM
#24
The same way you would get 400-450 horses out of a 50k mile ls1!
@ 130k miles your fine. All the ls/lq style motors Ive seen, still have almost new looking bearings, and crosshatches still on the cylinder walls @ 130k miles. Ive done cam swaps @ 220k miles with out a problem. Stick with a cam and springs if your on a budget. Doing a 383 with stock heads is like picking the fattest kid on the playground with asthma to be your running back. Kinda counter productive if you ask me.
@ 130k miles your fine. All the ls/lq style motors Ive seen, still have almost new looking bearings, and crosshatches still on the cylinder walls @ 130k miles. Ive done cam swaps @ 220k miles with out a problem. Stick with a cam and springs if your on a budget. Doing a 383 with stock heads is like picking the fattest kid on the playground with asthma to be your running back. Kinda counter productive if you ask me.
that would be because your caught up in a peak number not an avg number. Let me ask :when your driving your car how often are you at the limit of your rpms where that peak number comes into play? ( that is when you have the benefit of that hp.. when your actually in the rpm range that it is produced).Increasing cubic inches will give him more tq and low and mid range than he currently has and that will be used all the time.
FYI ... plenty of these engines fail before 100k miles with just a cam swap. Just as there are those who put over 220k miles on them without issue.
He wanted to refresh his motor... swapping valve springs and stuffing in a new cam is not refreshing a motor.
I prefer to make more power through out the rpm range ( rather than a peak number), its much more productive in a street car.
02-26-2010, 10:58 AM
#25
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Increasing cubic inches will give him more tq and low and mid range than he currently has and that will be used all the time.
FYI ... plenty of these engines fail before 100k miles with just a cam swap. Just as there are those who put over 220k miles on them without issue.
He wanted to refresh his motor... swapping valve springs and stuffing in a new cam is not refreshing a motor.
I prefer to make more power through out the rpm range ( rather than a peak number), its much more productive in a street car.
FYI ... plenty of these engines fail before 100k miles with just a cam swap. Just as there are those who put over 220k miles on them without issue.
He wanted to refresh his motor... swapping valve springs and stuffing in a new cam is not refreshing a motor.
I prefer to make more power through out the rpm range ( rather than a peak number), its much more productive in a street car.
First off...who said anything about peak #'s...???
Second off...the OP wanted some insight about a cam(on a budget)... NOT A 383 STROKER MOTOR!
Third off...who gives a **** what you "PREFER"...thats YOUR preference. Maybe he can't afford to go drop a few grand on a motor yet, maybe he doesn't want to go that route! This thread was about giving advise where advise was needed...NOT trying to push products that you sell, and discredit everyone elses first hand knowledge to sell your parts! Every other vendor on here gives good advise, without being a pushy salesman. You should try that some time...you might sell more plug wires that way!
Last edited by 408z28; 02-26-2010 at 11:17 AM.
02-26-2010, 11:29 AM
#26
LMAO!
First of all he has edited this thread a few times.. He was looking to refresh his motor to begin with but that has been edited out now.
Thats where the 383 comes into play. It has nothing to do with an engine sale on a build we make the least amount of money on.
I was offering him an option on a rebuild that he was looking for. So I can see where your confusion comes in, you haven't seen this thread from the beginning obviously or you would have known.
Third..I wasn't being a pushy salesman the OP and I have conversed in PM's and I was giving advise based on what he has said.. not what you interpreted this thread to be
4th I laughed at your fat kid comment , wasn't laughing at your advice but I sell plenty of wires and engines thank you.
I've been doing this for a while and have seen more than one cam eat an LS1. Be it a ringland, thrown rod or spun main when you start modding an engine all bets are off.
Just as I have seen cars (ls1) with 225,000 + miles on them still running strong.
I give advice based on experience and it has nothing to do with me trying to sell anything. Head and cam can be reliable but it can also lead to other things. I don't sugar coat anything. There are two sides to a coin and I look at both.
Also by offering different options others have a chance to see what they can do as well, it isn't just about this one person or you.
First of all he has edited this thread a few times.. He was looking to refresh his motor to begin with but that has been edited out now.
Thats where the 383 comes into play. It has nothing to do with an engine sale on a build we make the least amount of money on.
I was offering him an option on a rebuild that he was looking for. So I can see where your confusion comes in, you haven't seen this thread from the beginning obviously or you would have known.
Third..I wasn't being a pushy salesman
the OP and I have conversed in PM's and I was giving advise based on what he has said.. not what you interpreted this thread to be4th I laughed at your fat kid comment , wasn't laughing at your advice but I sell plenty of wires and engines thank you.
I've been doing this for a while and have seen more than one cam eat an LS1. Be it a ringland, thrown rod or spun main when you start modding an engine all bets are off.
Just as I have seen cars (ls1) with 225,000 + miles on them still running strong.
I give advice based on experience and it has nothing to do with me trying to sell anything. Head and cam can be reliable but it can also lead to other things. I don't sugar coat anything. There are two sides to a coin and I look at both.
Also by offering different options others have a chance to see what they can do as well, it isn't just about this one person or you.
02-26-2010, 12:07 PM
#27
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We could rebuild your LS1 into a 383, hand massage your heads a bit and bring you to that hp level for a little more money than a decent head and cam job that your not sure how long the bottom end will last under.
It would be a much more solid combination that you know you can trust to take the abuse. Not saying you cant and wont get good mileage out of a h/c combo on your current LS1 but at that mileage my personal thought is the better money spent with more productive results would be to rebuild the bottom end and add some cubic inches.
We have a formula for a 383 that is great for a budget build. It would be way less money than a new LS3 and would be a great way to go for a solid 450+ hp. It makes more sense than dropping money on a high mleage bottom end.
It would be a much more solid combination that you know you can trust to take the abuse. Not saying you cant and wont get good mileage out of a h/c combo on your current LS1 but at that mileage my personal thought is the better money spent with more productive results would be to rebuild the bottom end and add some cubic inches.
We have a formula for a 383 that is great for a budget build. It would be way less money than a new LS3 and would be a great way to go for a solid 450+ hp. It makes more sense than dropping money on a high mleage bottom end.
i have around the same amount of miles on my car...roughly about how much would this be? i may consider doing it before i do a h/c in my car just so i'm on the safe side
02-26-2010, 12:13 PM
#28
I'll pm you with info and but just to be clear:
I'm not advocating rebuilding the engine instead of heads and cam.
The OP had said refresh when this thread started so my advice was based on that. ( the thread has been edited and changed)
Plenty of great head cam cam cars out there running good and strong for many many miles.
I'm not advocating rebuilding the engine instead of heads and cam.
The OP had said refresh when this thread started so my advice was based on that. ( the thread has been edited and changed)
Plenty of great head cam cam cars out there running good and strong for many many miles.
02-26-2010, 12:22 PM
#29
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yes i understand what your saying. it is just something i want to see as an option on my own and since the thread/subject was already started i figured i would as rather than start a whole new one.
unfortunately i am work right now so they have the pm windows blocked. i can still check my messages though so if you could shoot me a message that would work
unfortunately i am work right now so they have the pm windows blocked. i can still check my messages though so if you could shoot me a message that would work
02-26-2010, 12:36 PM
#30
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Its funny to me that people have the misconception that the "cam" makes ring lands break, rod/main bearings spin, and the passenger side floorboard to fall out!! (hey...it happened to Paul Walker's eclipse!!)
What a lot of people fail to tell you when this happens...is that they dropped some dirt in the oil pan accidently, or they had some antifreeze spill into a cylinder that they didn't clean out, or didn't change their oil to remove any outside contaminants before starting the car. This will most certainly cause premature wear...or failure. Also mismatched parts (i.e. to long of a push rod causing lifter plungers to come out, or rockers to puke needle bearings into the oil pan.) Other than that...(or a random act of god) you'll have no problems with installing cam on a 500,000 mile motor of any kind...except maybe a ford.
What a lot of people fail to tell you when this happens...is that they dropped some dirt in the oil pan accidently, or they had some antifreeze spill into a cylinder that they didn't clean out, or didn't change their oil to remove any outside contaminants before starting the car. This will most certainly cause premature wear...or failure. Also mismatched parts (i.e. to long of a push rod causing lifter plungers to come out, or rockers to puke needle bearings into the oil pan.) Other than that...(or a random act of god) you'll have no problems with installing cam on a 500,000 mile motor of any kind...except maybe a ford.
Last edited by 408z28; 02-26-2010 at 12:49 PM.
02-26-2010, 12:43 PM
#31
yes i understand what your saying. it is just something i want to see as an option on my own and since the thread/subject was already started i figured i would as rather than start a whole new one.
unfortunately i am work right now so they have the pm windows blocked. i can still check my messages though so if you could shoot me a message that would work
unfortunately i am work right now so they have the pm windows blocked. i can still check my messages though so if you could shoot me a message that would work
408 I'm not going to go back and forth with you I explained that the 383 was an option when he was talking about refreshing. Now your on about a cam breaks ringlands etc which I did not say but you can twist it how ever you want. Have a nice weekend
If someone is interested in a rebuild to a 383 on a budget they can pm I'll drop form this thread to avoid any further confusion on anyones part
Last edited by 99blancoSS; 02-26-2010 at 12:58 PM.
02-26-2010, 01:36 PM
#32
02-26-2010, 03:03 PM
#34
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if he just uses nitrous then he would have to keep getting the bottle filled, maybe it will not be convienent place to fill up, if he went to a h-c swap the power is always there
02-26-2010, 09:28 PM
#35
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Everyone just needs to calm down! we are trying to help this guy with a question and you two are going on about being a salesman... cant we all just get along?!
02-27-2010, 08:43 AM
#36
Um, isn't trying to sell your products and services the whole point of being a paying (keeping the lights on in a place the rest of us use for free) sponsor?
Aaaanyway, my car with a totally stock LS1 just turned 190k so I'm thinking about the future of my bottom end as well. No compression and leakdown test yet but that's on my to-do list. Because I'm on a budget (don't get married, guys
) I was thinking about a 347 (honed cylinder walls, just to clean them up) with the stock crank (which supposedly can handle some power). That should save around $800 as compared to getting a forged 4.00" crank that would make 383 cubes. Some machine work on the crank and block, forged rods and pistons, and maybe a nice package from Texas Speed with their PRC 243 heads and a matched cam. Stock intake manifold and rocker arms with the trunion upgrade. Thoughts? Experiences? I've seen some 347s run their ***** off, especially on the bottle.
Aaaanyway, my car with a totally stock LS1 just turned 190k so I'm thinking about the future of my bottom end as well. No compression and leakdown test yet but that's on my to-do list. Because I'm on a budget (don't get married, guys
) I was thinking about a 347 (honed cylinder walls, just to clean them up) with the stock crank (which supposedly can handle some power). That should save around $800 as compared to getting a forged 4.00" crank that would make 383 cubes. Some machine work on the crank and block, forged rods and pistons, and maybe a nice package from Texas Speed with their PRC 243 heads and a matched cam. Stock intake manifold and rocker arms with the trunion upgrade. Thoughts? Experiences? I've seen some 347s run their ***** off, especially on the bottle.
02-27-2010, 06:13 PM
#37
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my opinion, you can pick up an lq4 pretty cheap and put your heads and cam in it. the heads raise the compression on the bigger bore and your ls1 parts are interchangeable. then later you can go bigger cam and build on the bored motor.
02-27-2010, 09:11 PM
#38
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I had 133,000 on mine when I done my H/C/I swap 5 months ago. The motor is still strong. No blow by or anything. I haven't got back to the track lately since i put the Drag Radials on. I have maybe 1,200 miles on it so far. All of them pretty hard also (play toy). Momma said i could buy it before we had the last kid.
