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Old May 4, 2010 | 10:58 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by cutlass_455
To properly install rod bolts you should be measuring stretch, and not torqueing anyways.
That's what I thought and what ARP recommends.
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Old May 4, 2010 | 11:03 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by vettenuts
That's what I thought and what ARP recommends.
Even with a torque wrench, you will still get pretty close to the target preload. Knocking in 10 minutes sounds like something else went wrong, like forgetting to reinstall the pickup tube, lol.
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Old May 4, 2010 | 11:03 AM
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My ARP Waveloc bolts came with a paper that said 45ft lbs as well.
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Old Aug 18, 2011 | 08:02 PM
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so my worry is how do i know what bolt i bought now, i bought these a couple years ago and now im worried, i torqued them to 45 and backed them off did this 3 times
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Old Aug 19, 2011 | 11:55 AM
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The only way to be 100% sure is if You had measured them before torq them and written down every bolts length and measure them now and per instructions if any bolt has stretched .001 , replace that bolt meaning the set unless anyone knows where to obtain single ARP fasteners .
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Old Apr 15, 2015 | 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Dickie-311
OK ARP told me the part number i have 134-6006 TQ to 45ft ... the other p/n they list is 234-6301 TQ TO 40 FTLBS.. so i'm allset
Great info on rods bolts thanks!
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Old Apr 16, 2015 | 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by MillsMotorvation
Great info on rods bolts thanks!
That info is wrong:

134-6006

234-6301

If you need kit instructions, to include torque values, all you have to do is go to arp-bolts.com and enter in the PN for your kit and it gives you the instructions. It's very easy and very simple.
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Old Aug 4, 2015 | 07:44 AM
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How do you re-size the connecting rod? What is the precedure for that?
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Old Aug 4, 2015 | 11:18 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by ChevyChad
How do you re-size the connecting rod? What is the precedure for that?
You just hone it out ~.002" larger and use a bearing meant for the larger bore.
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Old Aug 6, 2015 | 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by KCS
You just hone it out ~.002" larger and use a bearing meant for the larger bore.
So, this is not a simple DIY project then. It involves machine shop labor and new bearings. No wonder so many people have mixed results with this mod.. So by the time you account for the new bolts, machine shop labor, trip expenses to and from the machine shop, new bearings, etc. How much are you saving vs buying new rods that already have ARP bolts included?
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Old Aug 6, 2015 | 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by ChevyChad
So, this is not a simple DIY project then. It involves machine shop labor and new bearings. No wonder so many people have mixed results with this mod.. So by the time you account for the new bolts, machine shop labor, trip expenses to and from the machine shop, new bearings, etc. How much are you saving vs buying new rods that already have ARP bolts included?
No, it has to go to a machine shop.

It's cheaper than using an aftermarket rod. The cheapest option I know of is a Scat I Beam and they only have a press fit pin if you stay with the stock size .943" pin. With the press fit pin, you're still having to use a machine shop to hang the rods and pistons.

Scat also has the same I Beam rods with a .927" pin, but the pistons are typically more expensive once you go that route.
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Old Aug 6, 2015 | 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by KCS
No, it has to go to a machine shop.

It's cheaper than using an aftermarket rod. The cheapest option I know of is a Scat I Beam and they only have a press fit pin if you stay with the stock size .943" pin. With the press fit pin, you're still having to use a machine shop to hang the rods and pistons.

Scat also has the same I Beam rods with a .927" pin, but the pistons are typically more expensive once you go that route.
Good to know. Thanks
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