Not yet. It's in the garage now with no intake. I sold my LS6 and bought a used 102 which was a mistake(no complaint about the seller) ended up selling it. I have the stock LS1 intake that I was going to put back on it but my dumbass left it outside with the T/B up since last year. :doh:

I can't get it completely clean so I am not going to use it. After all the **** you have to do to get the 102 to fit I think I am looking for a unported FAST 92.

I live in Evansville which is south of Indy about 3.5 hours. It's as far south as you can go before you get to Kentucky.

I have heard nothing but great things about Mike.

 

I've been to Evansville numerous times. Let me how it all turns out.

 

I picked up a Vengeance ported 92 FAST and a N/W 92mm T/B. Waiting on some parts from GM to install it.

Grabbed a set of Strano sway bars and the Fays2 Watt's rear setup.

Ian from Kee Audio hooked me up with a Pioneer AVH-4300DVD, JL 700/5 amp, premium speaker setup, 10 in sub and enclosure and some other goodies.

I hope to get to work on the car next week. Then it will be off to see Mike Norris to get it tuned!

 

Got the FAST 92/92 on. I was able to use the stock bellows which was nice.

HSW is about 6 weeks out on making anymore 92mm plates.

I am going to get the car dyno tuned FINALLY on the 25th at Norris Performance. I am hoping for 450rwhp. If I get that I will be happy. I have the intake, compression, cam and exhaust to get it. I guess I will find out how good the TEA heads are.

I did get the Strano sway bars on Friday. Damn those things are nice. There is a corner near my house I use for "testing" purposes. When I started out with stock decarbons/sportlines I was pushing about 45-46mph. I took it at 55mph the other night and it was super stable. I am interested in seeing what the Watt's rear setup does.

The Nitto NT05R's in the back are great. One of the reasons I went with them was because of their stiffer sidewalls. They turn very very well.

 

I finally got the car tuned this morning at Norris Motorsports in Indianapolis. Went up last night and was there first thing in the morning. Everything went pretty well except for having to load the car on the trailer in the rain. I was expecting more horsepower as probably most people do but I was really surprised by the torque.

Car made 428.8/418.6 with the cutout open. Peaks around 5800 and carries all the way to 6300 and never really drops off.

First pull was 388/388. I didn't know if I was going to cry or throw up. Mike Norris looks at a few things and realizes I'm only getting 62% throttle opening. He goes to adjust the cable and says, "Damn punk *** kids! You put it in the wrong hole! I said my wife says the same thing.

There are two holes on the NW T/B and I had it in the upper one.

Second pull was 410 or so. He added some fuel and took some out up top and got 417. A/F was dead on at 12.9/13.0 the whole way with 28 degrees of timing.

With the cutout open it made 428.8/418.8. Close enough to call it 430/420 for me. The numbers are STD not SAE. It's a dyno jet.

I was kinda bummed about the low hp numbers. I honestly thought I'd pull 455/460. All the components are there, intake, compression, good exhaust, etc. My main concern was about the heads.

He says people call his dyno "The Humbler" I now understand why. He says his dyno is conservative.

On the way home I was thinking about everything and it hit me. 420ft lbs is pretty damn nice. I told Geoff@EPS I wanted good low/mid range power and didn't want to spin the **** out of it. I got exactly that. It has about 375ft lbs at 3000rpm and climbs from there.

I drove it when I got home and it drives good. No bucking or surging cruising in 6th. It's raining here so I can't get on it. I am really impressed how well the NT05R's are in the rain.

I am on my way to the shop and will post a graph soon. By the way the graph looks up top I think the valvetrain is stable. It doesn't take a nose dive after it peaks.

Dyno sheet



Dyno vid
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r0Bj20pTcdM

 

Highway go.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OOjtrmsRDlM

 

What clutch are you running? Sounds like it may be slipping a bit when you hit second gear.

 

Monster 3.5 The tires broke loose in second.

 

I had forgotten about this thread. It's been months since I have updated it.

I don't remember exactly where I left off, but to give a quick update.

Installed the Watt's rear setup and Strano sways. The Watts made the biggest difference. The rear of the car is planted
much better and doesn't oversteer anymore.

Installed the AVH-4300, JL amp, CDT speakers and sub. I am very happy with this setup. I'm a car audio newbie and want to thank Ian@Kee Audio for all of his help.



The car started running really bad, wouldn't idle, gas mileage was around 9mpg. Found out my cutout wasn't closing all the way and a leak on the driver side collector that was on the top bouncing off the floorboard. Between 2500-3000rpm the engine was really noisy which I thought was valvetrain related. Turns out it was the collector leak. Fixed the two leaks and mileage increased to 15mpg.

The car started smoking after a WOT run and occasionly on start up. Signs of valve seals.

Talked to Shane@Thunder Racing and he suspected my valve spring install height was too high. After telling him about the smoking problems I have and him looking at my dyno graph he was pretty confident this was my problem.

The 921 springs are rated at .650 lift and my cam only has .600. He said the springs are probably rotating which causes the inner spring to pull the valve seal off the guide boss and causes valve train instability. If you look at my dyno graph right around 4600-4800 the graph becomes jagged.

I pulled the springs tonight and checked the install height which was 1.81-1.82. He said my install height should be 1.725 with my cam. I have no idea why I've never heard of this during the 1000+ hours I've been on this forum. This is what one seal looks like.


I need to check retainer to seal clearance and I'm assuming I'm going to be installing shims this coming week.

 

Just the lack of smoke and better fuel economy will be nice enough, but you might pick up a little power with having the springs set at the correct height.

 

I'm thinking I will pick up power up top. .075 is a lot. That can't be good on the valve train.

 

The shimming is mostly to prevent the springs from surging. It should pick up a little bit, I wouldn't expect a whole lot.

 

I'm most concerned about valve train stability and not tearing anything up. If I pick up a little bit of a power that's just an added bonus.

 

Maybe just toss Lunati gold dual kit in which sets up @ 1.81 and tool steel
retainers last longer than titanium anyways. The kit comes with new seats,
seals, and locks for $225.

 

I can't really see where that makes much sense.

It would be cheaper to throw some shims and seals at it and put it back together. The car doesn't get that many miles on it so I'm not really worried about the retainers or the springs wearing out.

 

Just checked my Comp catalogue for incremental pressures and holy crap
@ 1.82 you're only at 115-118 on the seat. Shimming with a .060+.030
will put you around 150 seat and 355-360 open. Your valvetrain will thank
you. Make sure to get those same seals if they are from Comp as small
changes in external diameter can also catch the spring.

 

I can't believe I didn't blow the damn thing up. Good thing I flycut the pistons.

I got some seals from Shane. They are the smaller ones to clear the inner spring. I've been playing phone tag with him this week. I want to get the shims ordered so I can work on the car this weekend. The man is about impossible to get a hold of.

 

I talked to Geoff@EPS today because I can't get a hold of Shane. He says he normally runs the install height .050-.100 from coil bind. He said to find out what the coil bind is, add the lift of the cam then add .050.

Lets say my coil bind is 1.100+.600 lift for the cam I get 1.70 then .050 puts my install height at 1.750.

Of course I have to find out what my coil bind is first. I am either going to take them to the machine shop and have them checked or do it in a vise and a set of calipers. I would think that would work because I'm just measuring the height. Any thoughts?

I also wonder what my open pressure is now with the install height at 1.82.

 

921 Spring Information:

http://www.compperformancegroupstore...Category_Code=

 

I had actually printed the same thing out from the Comp Cams catalog this afternoon. Going to pick some shims up tomorrow.